footyboyack

Hi guys,

As I have been driving recently, I have noticed that there is occasionally no pickup when transitioning from first to second gear. This usually happens when driving from a cold start and in automatic as opposed to tiptronic mode. Although it is a fairly recent issue, and has only happened a few times thus far, I am afraid of tranny damage, which I am sure would be neigh impossible for me to remedy on my own.

I had already been planning on doing all my fluids and filters within the next month or two, including the auto trans. fluid, pan gasket, and filter, and I am really hoping this may only be an issue of low ATF level.

Pipe up B5 gurus; is this a serious problem or just an issue of low/old fluid (fluid never replaced in 11 years)? Should I stop driving the car until I find a fix, or will this likely not cause lasting trans issues?

Thanks in advance!

lrwatkins

well good luck getting any answers here ......... what noise it making i maybe have the same problem with mine or anr u getting any noise im still trying to figure out where to check the ATF fluids do u know how

footyboyack

No strange noises really, just doesn't engage second gear on occasion and engine revs up. When I take my foot off the gas, the car is either still in first and quickly transitions to second, or stays in first and changes gears after another attempt at acceleration. Like I say, there's just no pickup.

No, I don't know how to check the ATF, and am not even sure if there is a way. When our cars were designed, I believe Audi was operating on the principle of a "sealed transmission". As far as I know there was to be no scheduled service - such as a filter and fluid change - done to the transmission by the dealership. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

jschick

if when you say their is no pickup you mean the car goes into like neutral between shifts then slams into gear then yes easy fix. if it is slipping in gear big problem.
the first symptom of Audi/Vw tranny low on fluid, or dirty filter is the solinoids begin to stick and it will go to like neutral between shifts, if you let off the gas it will shift, or if you keep going it will slam in gear.
Change fluid and filter, you should be fine, German Auto has fluid and filter for about $100, I have used the fluid from German Auto for years, I think it's Maxtor.
and you will need Vag-com to properly change fluid.

footyboyack

Ah, that's a relief, because I am pretty sure that it is not slipping while in gear. Is VAG-COM absolutely essential? For instance, I have access to fairly advanced OBD-II software. Because my car is OBD-II compliant and the transmission is part of the drivetrain and not a proprietary module, could I run diagnostics and get up to date trans temperatures with OBD-II alone? Is there a special key that I would need to communicate thru OBD-II?

I have heard some people even attempt a fluid and filter change without VAG-COM by simply letting the motor idle for around 15 minutes after slowly running thru each gear twice, then topping off at 15 min. Is this a feasible (although riskier) solution? For that matter, might I even be able to avoid VAG by using a bulb thermometer on the fluid sitting below the fill cap? I should have easy access to the fluid it while the motor is running, right?

Finally, is it smart for me to continue driving the car for a week or two while the transmission is in this state, or should I stay off it because I could do lasting damage?

Thanks jschick

jschick

you can get a guesstimate with out Vag, and thats it, you will either over fill if the tranny is too cold and blow out your seals, or under fill if it's too hot. under-fill is much better which is why he lets the car run for 15 minutes! every time I have done a fluid change, I seem to have only a few minute window once I hit the temp range before it gets too hot. So to answer your question, yes you have to have Vag to do it proper. No other tool will read internal tranny temps. But if you want you can change the fluid and guess how much to add. I played with this once and it is very easy to be Plus or minus 1 qt in a 10degree temp change. the last time I did one I filled the tranny at 5 or 6 degrees colder then needed, when it reached temp I drained out almost 3/4 qt out the overflow. I then let it warm up past temp, I didn't bother checking the temp when I stopped but I drained out another 1/2 qt in a few minutes,when I put the plug in it was still comming out! If I remember correctly normal operating temp is 10degrees above full level temp cutoff. If I remember I will check my notes, or maybe someone else has tried this. I do know the VW jetta warms up much faster then Audi!!

Pete@ECSTuning

You really should not drive in this condition. A tranny low on fluid is already pretty unstable, as you've noticed. Putting the abuse of driving on it and you could be looking an longer term damage.

Also, be sure you can crack the FILL plug before you get started. It will take some large amount of leverage and if you drain all your oil only to find out you can't fill it up - you'll be even worse than when you started.

We have total Automatic Transmission Service Kits that include the filter, gasket, plugs and fantastic quality oil if you are looking for supplies.

footyboyack

Ok, so what you're saying to do is to overfill early, then let fluid drain out the fill cap as it expands as the transmission heats up. Once the transmission reaches a certain temperature, you put the fill cap back in and torque it down. You said you let it go a few degrees higher than the full level; I assume you did this to prevent a blowout ever occurring? I have heard a good temp to replace the fill cap at is 38 degrees Celsius; sound right to you?

You said "I drained out almost 3/4 qt out the overflow". Is there a separate overflow port, or are you just speaking of the fill port?

Sounds as if I'd be taking a big risk trying to do this without VAG, do you think I could get away with just buying one of the cheap Ebay VAG cables and downloading the old ross-tech software (is it 401.11?) I know it's sort of a lame out, but I'd be willing to try it if I could save some money that way.

Thanks again.

turbo510

There definitely is a way to check the ATF, nobody seriously believes the "sealed transmission" BS. It is however a fair hastle to check, because the engine has to be running while you check it, which is done by removing the check/fill plug at the bottom of the trans to see if the fluid dribbles out, within a temperature range, and the car level. But don't bother just checking your 11-year old ATF, change the filter and fluid. You can do both for about $50 and a couple of hours. Chris made a good point, have the proper tools required and make sure the check/fill plug, the really important thing here, can be loosened. I'm very satisfied with Valvoline MaxLife, others prefer factory fluid or Mobil 1, etc. The important thing is to get the old fluid changed. Keep in mind that the whole trans holds around 9 quarts, you can drain and refill only a little over 6, so it will take two changes to have roughly 90% fresh ATF.

To do this job you'll need four jackstands, a 17mm hex driver for the fill plug, a 14mm for the drain plug, a Torx T27 for the pan screws (have a set available since the filter uses a smaller bit), and your oil drain pan. I also use a funnel, a ladder with paint-tray to hold the fullel, and a length of clear vinyl tube (5/8" I.D.) with a copper plumping elbow at the end. The tube and elbow are Home Depot items. I also recommend using a thin film of Vaseline on the new filter's gasket, otherwise it can bind when installing the filter. You don't absolutely need the VAG-COM, depending on how well you can estimate temperature; The pan should be just about 100F when the fill plug is reinstalled. This is just an overview, check out the Tech Articals section.

footyboyack

Ah! That's a great suggestion, turbo. I own an infrared thermometer, so may just measure the temperature of the fluid that way.

I have also been thinking about putting some Seafoam trans tune in before doing the change. Would this be worthwhile/effective? Is it even compatible with the transmission?

Thanks in advance.