Any suggestions on better brake fluid and spark plugs for a 99.5 A4 1.8T
#1
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Any suggestions on better brake fluid and spark plugs for a 99.5 A4 1.8T
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/26266/dscf0002.jpg"></center><p>The dealer wants too much for OEM fluid and plugs so I am investigating alternatives.
The car is modified with the normal chip, exhaust, downpipe, P-Flow, ....
Here's a picutre for fun...
Bruno
Toronto, Canada
The car is modified with the normal chip, exhaust, downpipe, P-Flow, ....
Here's a picutre for fun...
Bruno
Toronto, Canada
#4
I've been using Motul RBF 600. I got 6 500mL bottles for $9 each from RoadRaceEngineering.com
It's a Mitu tuner.
I tried local bike shops, but they only carry Motul oils. Some would order it for me, but I'd have to buy an entire 12-pack case, which was more than buying it online and paying shipping. It's was cost effective to buy 6 at $9 each and pay for shipping.<ul><li><a href="http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclbrakes.htm">http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclbrakes.htm</a</li></ul>
I tried local bike shops, but they only carry Motul oils. Some would order it for me, but I'd have to buy an entire 12-pack case, which was more than buying it online and paying shipping. It's was cost effective to buy 6 at $9 each and pay for shipping.<ul><li><a href="http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclbrakes.htm">http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclbrakes.htm</a</li></ul>
#5
AudiWorld Uber User
If cost is an issue, don't go with Denso Iridiums (at least $12/plug)...
I hear NGKs are a great plug for much less. I have a set of Denso Iridiums and after 1000 miles or so, had one cylinder throw a misfire code. Mechanic moved the plug to another cylinder to isolate the failure, but no codes have come back after 1500 more miles. I don't know if it's a faulty plug or if the connection to the coil was just bad. That's my only experience with the plugs so far. I really don't see the $12/plug value.
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Seems to be hit or miss with the Denso Iridium.
I have heard of some people not having any problems out of them, however it seems like more people end up with misfires. So then they adjust the gap, sometimes that works, but sometimes not. So they end up tossing them. I had exactly the problems that I just described. Finally I ended up just getting a standard Denso plug from Autozone for $1.69 each. Never looked back since. Just beware, the Iridium can be problematic.
Andy
Andy
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#8
IMO, it's all about the gap...
Most people buy the Denso IK20s b/c it matches the heat range for our cars. Unfortunately, these come factory gapped at .040 - which is too large, especially if you're chipped. Some people have not had problems running them with this gap while others have had serious misfires.
A couple of explanations are possible as to why people's experience differ with these plugs. 1) Boost levels and timing differ in every car. IMO .040 is probably at the edge of the range where the plug can be effective and based on your cars particular engine setup/condition, it may or may not work for you. 2) Plug Indexing - Assuming that the .040 gap is at the edge of the effective gap range, then the direction of the opening of the plug's gap becomes an factor. The opening should ideally be pointing between the two valves, to get the best possible ignition going in the cylinder. Motorheads will often use indexing washers as spacers to ensure that the gap is lined up between the valves.
So, my suggestion is to regap the IK20s down to .032. Or, if you're chipped and don't live in Alaska, go with the IK22 (a colder plug) that comes gapped at .032.
Chris
A couple of explanations are possible as to why people's experience differ with these plugs. 1) Boost levels and timing differ in every car. IMO .040 is probably at the edge of the range where the plug can be effective and based on your cars particular engine setup/condition, it may or may not work for you. 2) Plug Indexing - Assuming that the .040 gap is at the edge of the effective gap range, then the direction of the opening of the plug's gap becomes an factor. The opening should ideally be pointing between the two valves, to get the best possible ignition going in the cylinder. Motorheads will often use indexing washers as spacers to ensure that the gap is lined up between the valves.
So, my suggestion is to regap the IK20s down to .032. Or, if you're chipped and don't live in Alaska, go with the IK22 (a colder plug) that comes gapped at .032.
Chris
#10
I just went with the OEM 3prong from gprparts.com. $5.30ea? Densos have reported problems.
Unless of course you like taking you spark plugs out a lot, regapping them, testing again...etc. I didn't want to go with that hassle so I just used OEM. =)
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