APR and EMCS options
#1
APR and EMCS options
Not chipped yet but soon. If I get a APR chip, I'll probably get it with 2 programs and the Throttle Body/ Fault Code erase option. How do these functions work? Also, if I get fault codes and then erase them, how will service be able to tell waht the problem is? I"m a little lost on what the purpose of erasing fault codes really is. Can someone esplain the reasoning behind this function? Thanks all, again.
#2
Re: APR and EMCS options
The options provides a quick way to erase the fault codes and do a TBA but IMHO, instead of the Throttle Body/ Fault Code erase option you should get a VAG-COM sw & cable. It will cost you more but you will be able to read the fault codes yourself and see if they are worth erasing. Also you can do other functions TBA independent of Fault Code erase. Check requested vs actual boost + many more. Instead of TBA/FC option get the third race program, then find someone with a VAG tool until you can get your own.
#5
Here's one reason why you want to erase fault codes....
This goes back to the "will by dealer nullify my warrantee if I have a chip?" question. Either that or they just don't want their dealer to know. Here is what happens:
When you switch out your stock ECU for the chipped one, a fault code (don't know which one) is recorded. Something about loss of power or something of the sorts. Apparently you would get the same fault if your battery died or you disconnected your battery. This beiging said when the dealer runs a diagnostic on your car this fault is recorded and they will know that either your battery died or you switched out the ECU, thus leading them to believe you are chipped, thus giving them a reason to "attempt" to weasel out of your warrantee. As everyone knows they can only nullify a warrantee if they can prove the chip caused something to fail. This might include BPVs, turbos and other things like that. If you dealer doesn't care, then you have nothing to hide, some dealers do though. Personally, I think that is a lot to do to really hide nothing. If you dealer drives your car and it is chipped they WILL know just from the extra power. The only way to get around that is to get the stock program in addition to the others. Still overkill IMHO. Hope that helps.
When you switch out your stock ECU for the chipped one, a fault code (don't know which one) is recorded. Something about loss of power or something of the sorts. Apparently you would get the same fault if your battery died or you disconnected your battery. This beiging said when the dealer runs a diagnostic on your car this fault is recorded and they will know that either your battery died or you switched out the ECU, thus leading them to believe you are chipped, thus giving them a reason to "attempt" to weasel out of your warrantee. As everyone knows they can only nullify a warrantee if they can prove the chip caused something to fail. This might include BPVs, turbos and other things like that. If you dealer doesn't care, then you have nothing to hide, some dealers do though. Personally, I think that is a lot to do to really hide nothing. If you dealer drives your car and it is chipped they WILL know just from the extra power. The only way to get around that is to get the stock program in addition to the others. Still overkill IMHO. Hope that helps.
#6
Yup. Old one only a few months old, but (more)
made a whopper of a difference when I installed it over the stock one. DOn't really know why. I put the GIAC ECU in (I have stock & chipped) and I was not impressed, at all, with this chip upgrade. The next day I installed the Bailey valve, and what a difference in the world it made for my ride... I cannot find anything wrong with my old, stock valve. Seems to hold vacuum OK on the small port, and pressure on the large ports. I actually did try to re-install the old one, but the hose/nipple arrangement would not secure correctly (old vacuum nipple a little too short to get a hose clamp on there to my liking) so that's it... your milage may vary.
#7
I did APR stock/chipped and I noticed a big difference between stock & chipped and still do, should
I try a TT BPV or a bailey or forge or wait until I don't notice any difference between stock and chipped?
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