If you want some more info on this, check out the archives. I and several others have discussed the Bilsteins before.<p>To summarize, though, the so-called factory settings for the A4 are middle (third) groove up front and bottom (fourth) groove at rear. These settings should result in the advertised drop for the particular aftermarket spring you use. For example, using the H&R sport would drop the car 1.5" in front and 1.0" at rear. I suppose if you used the stock OEM springs, this settings would result in the stock height. Most aftermarket springs will lower the car - they are actually shorter than stock. The spring length is what usually sets the drop.<p>If you don't want to lower the car that much, you could raise the front one or two grooves and the rear up to four grooves (although you probably would raise it only one or two in the rear to match the front. Each groove is approx. 12 mm or 0.5" apart.) I did this with my Neuspeed sport (race) springs setting them on the second groove up front and third groove at rear. However, now I'm running the H&R sports at the standard grooves.<p>In any case, I was told by a Bilstein tech that the spring length and shock characteristics do not change regardless of which groove you use. However, it seemed that my Neuspeed springs didn't handle as well when set in the higher groove, compared to other A4s that had the standard drop. My rear springs tended to "boing" when entering driveways, etc. Plus, the handling didn't seem as sharp. I guess the springs are designed to work optimally at the full 2.0" drop.<p>HTH,<br>Jim

 

From what I understand, the higher groove (referenced vertically to the ground, when you hold the shock up) you I use, higer the car will be. Am I right?. If I use higer groove, spring will be raised higher, and thus, results in higher car. This is very contast to what you explained to Don (You said use higher groove for more lowered car)<p>Sorry If I am wrong. I write this from my experience from Radio Comtrolled Car. Those little R/C cars can be adjusted the ride height by raising or lowering springs as I explained above (they even have threaded-body shocks with adjustable damping force!!). I am not familiar with Blistein shock, so , may be I get you wrong.<p>Please explain<br>Thank you.<p>NIck T. 97 1.8 with Eibach and looking forward for new shocks (now stock shocks) :-)

 

probably 'cause I didn't explain it well enough. :-)<p>You are correct in that the higher grooves will raise the car - that make sense. When referring to my Neuspeed spring setup, I used the second groove up front and third groove at rear. Thus, the car wasn't as low as it would have been using the "standard" setup of F3, R4.<p>In my case, though, the car was still lower than my factory sport setup, but it dropped the car only 35 or 40 mm from stock rather than the advertised 50 mm. (The sport package setup drops the car only 20 mm.)<p>Hope this clarifies things,<br>Jim<p>PS: BTW, how much of a drop to you get from your Eibach springs? Are they sport or race?

 

<br>I have encountered my first problem with my new A4. About 50% of the time it will not recognize when the key is removed from the ignition. Symptoms:<br>- Interior lights do not come on when key is removed.<br>- Warning chime sounds when opening the door.<br>- Wireless remote does not function.<br>- Locking the door with the key does not arm the alarm.<p>Putting the key back in the ignition turning it and removing it will usually fix the problem (temporarily).<p>I have searched the archives and saw that two or three other people had the same problem but there were no follow-up posts describing how the problem was fixed. Does anyone know of an easy fix for this or will I need to pay a visit to my service department?<p>Thanks!<br>/\/\ark<br>('99.5 1.8T Q Tip)

 

I had this problem. Apparently, something internally jams if you turn the key when the steering wheel is locked and tight on the locking pin. I had a habit of turning the key when the steering wheel was tight against the locking pin. After I became conscious of not forcing the key but rather moving the steering wheel a bit when starting the car my removing the key problems went away. <p>If not, have it checked.

 

According to Audi a whole batch of defective ignition cylinders were installed at some time.<p>Temporary work-around for me was to push upward<br>on the lock after removing the key. You'll hear an audible click and the remote, etc will then work.<p>My service was at Ogner Motorcars in Woodland Hills, and they replaced the cylinder twice! <p>Apparently got another from the bad batch on the first try. All has been fine now for months.<p>Dave S. 98.5 A4 2.8 QTS

 

Don & David,<p>Thanks for the help. I have a service appointment (three weeks away) to get it fixed.<p>/\/\ark<br>