If your pump was original, it was time to change anyway! So did you first check for power at the fuel pump connector? I hooked a test light up to see that it lit when cranking the engine (which it did) before delving into the fuel tank. No, there is no need to prime the pump, and yes the pump wires have different size terminals so the pump runs the correct way. The other wires should be for the fuel level sender.

So if you didn't do it before, now check the electrical. If you don't get 12V at the pump connector wires (the larger two wires of the four in the connector) when cranking, then pull the knee bolster off, remove the fuel pump relay- far right hand on my car, and unclip the plastic cover. Carefully plug it back in, and try and start the car. You should see the point arm move. If it doesn't, move the contacts together by hand (the key doesn't have to be turned on) and see if the pump runs. If it does, then the relay coil may be bad, or the signal from the ECU isn't getting to the relay. If the contacts do move when starting, but you don't get power to the pump, use a DVM to see whether you have 12V on either of the points; one should have battery power when not running the engine, both should have 12V when the relay is activated. If you get this far without resolution, check the ground for the pump, pump motor for resistance (in case it's an out-of-box failure), and be sure there is actually power at the fuel pump fuse. It should have 12V all the time.

 

People like you are the reason I'm on this board!

I'll check it in the morning and let you know what happens. I could hear the old pump when turning the key before, but we'll see what happens.

 

Well, I tried the suggestions and got nowhere. Luckily there is a good Audi guy in town, and I had it towed to him about 10 days ago. He went over my fuel pump install and verified that I did it right(yes!), and started his troubleshooting.

Many hours and removed/reinstalled parts later, it's running again. Here's what he found:
There was a short between the fuse box and the motor.
The timing belt was off by one tooth, which I had previously told the guy who replaced it, and he insisted it was my cam position sensor, not his crappy workmanship.
There was a bad coil pack.

Sooo, hopefully no more CEL for the camshaft pos sensor, and the car will actually RUN without any more problems. Of course, while it was in the shop, I was commuting 130 miles a day in my 02 Ram Crew Cab, getting 13 MPG. Now it's leaking/burning what could very well be some form of vital operating fluid(not oil), but I haven't crawled under to look yet. Oh yeah, the drivers side power door broke on our Honda Odyssey too.

This goes to show you, Axis or Allies, they all break at the worst time.

 

Thanks for your update; this might help someone else. Lots of times folks ask for help, then don't report what actually fixed their car.