I currently have chipped( GIAC 1 bar) my audi a4 about 5 months ago- finally got around putting a boost gauge in- only reading 12 lbs.... this normal??

if not what can I do or change- I see people hitting 20 lbs--


helppp!!

 

stfa

 

diverter valve could be fuxored
vac lines could need to be replaced
tons of stuff

open your hood and climb on top of your motor.. have your friend drive your car... if you listen to the motor you should be able to hear where the leak is coming from when he goes into boost

^^^ this is the "cool" way

the other way is to do a pressure test... not as cool

 

not really sure what that is but could that be the answer?

 

yeah... it's a solenoid that sits ontop of your Turbo inlet pipe

 

think that may be it? I do have the turbo Xs Dv-

 

i dont know why that always comes up as a probable cause in the searches. it is an electrical part and is only known to fail if the ecu programming requests 100% duty cycle which can cause it to heat up and break. the stock ecu does not do this, and neither does apr or giac. if it is the n75 valve, most likely its a pinched hose going to the valve.

first things to check are for defective DV, boost leak, vacuum lines frayed.

your car from your pics looks like it is a 2001 or 2000. pickup a vag-com and log block 115/119. 115 is requested vs actual boost. 119 is wastegate duty cycle.

 

1) On the back of the IM goes from the IM to the Fuel Pressure Regulator-Nitril Braided Rubber hose
2) On the Right side of the IM the "L Hose" goes to the back and connects to what is called the "suction jet pump".
NOTE: Search for these items and you will find all you need. They are < $20 each just buy them and replace them reguardless if they are leaking or not (they will eventually)
3) On the front of the IM goes from the IM to the Diverter Valve- Nitril Braided Rubber hose

Next check each clamp in your system from the Turbo to the Intercooler. verify that it is tight. If you have an oily residue anywhere you most likely have a leak.

The easiest way to do all of this is to build what is known as a "pressure tester". It is essentially a 3" PVC Endcap that you put a compressor quick release fitting in that gets clamped into your Turbo Inlet hose. You remove your Pancake valve and replace it with a 1/2" PVC Endcap and clamp it down.

Next remove the trottle body hose at the trottle body and place another 3" PVC endcap (without a fitting or anything) with a clamp.

Set up your air compressor (Craftsman tank style with secondary regulator that is set to less than 15 psi) to <b>LESS THAN 15 PSI</b> and place it on the compressor fitting.

The intake system will fill with compressed air up to the second end cap and will test that part of the system for leaks.

Get a spray bottle and fill it with soapy water. If you hear any hissing, then find out where it is and determine if it is a cracked hose, or just a loose hose clamp.

Once you eliminate any issues from the turbo-TB hose, you remove the compressor hose and discharge the system. Remove the second end cap and re-connect the TB. reconnect the Compressor hose and do the same thing on the engine related components.

Pretty much guaranteed your Suction Jet Pump will be leaking out of the left side of the housing. If you have any other leaks in the vaccum lines you'll find them then.