How do you check if you have a leak somewhere in your turbo system?
#2
Get a MityVac Turbo Tester (more)
NAPA carries these, as do other "better" auto supplies. It's a hand operated vacuum/ pressure pump that comes with various adapters, a vacuum gage, pressure gage, and a complete booklet describing how to test emission and turbo control systems.
You can check for leaks, and operate vacuum or pressure operated sensors and actuators for troubleshooting purposes. You can also troubleshoot HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) problems by operating the vacuum motors that control airflow through the air ducts. (I am not sure if Audi uses these devices, but most cars have them.) And you could certainly check your central locking system with it.
Be sure to get the Turbo version (Kit #6890)- the other pumps do not supply positive pressure, only vacuum. You can also purchase other accessories like brake bleeding and cooling system test kits which are very useful.
I can't recall the price of mine, since I've had it for years - maybe about $60USD?
If you do your own engine work on a turbo car you _need_ one of these. If you do a whole lot of engine work consider getting the Silverline Plus (Kit #4050) kit, which has a metal rather than plastic pump, and is much more durable.
BTW, the 6890 kit is not listed in the catalog index, but you can scroll down the page to see it described.
Get one - you will not be disappointed.<ul><li><a href="http://mityvac.com/kits.html">MityVac automotive testers</a></li></ul>
You can check for leaks, and operate vacuum or pressure operated sensors and actuators for troubleshooting purposes. You can also troubleshoot HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) problems by operating the vacuum motors that control airflow through the air ducts. (I am not sure if Audi uses these devices, but most cars have them.) And you could certainly check your central locking system with it.
Be sure to get the Turbo version (Kit #6890)- the other pumps do not supply positive pressure, only vacuum. You can also purchase other accessories like brake bleeding and cooling system test kits which are very useful.
I can't recall the price of mine, since I've had it for years - maybe about $60USD?
If you do your own engine work on a turbo car you _need_ one of these. If you do a whole lot of engine work consider getting the Silverline Plus (Kit #4050) kit, which has a metal rather than plastic pump, and is much more durable.
BTW, the 6890 kit is not listed in the catalog index, but you can scroll down the page to see it described.
Get one - you will not be disappointed.<ul><li><a href="http://mityvac.com/kits.html">MityVac automotive testers</a></li></ul>
#3
The MityVac will only test the control hoses and components (more)
To check the big stuff you have to do a visual inspection of the inlet air ducts and couplings, and check all the clamps for tightness.
Though I have used (on aircraft) the trick of carefully!!! hooking up regulated compressed air to the air inlet duct, after the air filter, with the duct at the throttle body disconnected and plugged securely. This way you are pressurizing the entire duct system but not allowing the air to go through the engine or turbo. Any leaks will be obvious with a little soapy water, or just listen for escaping air if the leak is a bad one.
DON'T try this with anything but clean, filtered, regulated air from a compressor or air tank! Don't exceed about 20 psi! Using a shop vac as an air source could be a disaster, since the air pressure is completely uncontrollable and not exactly free of dirt particles!
This procedure is usually unnecessary - if you look things over carefully you will usually find any leaks. It's the hidden couplings and intercooler that might de difficult to check.
Though I have used (on aircraft) the trick of carefully!!! hooking up regulated compressed air to the air inlet duct, after the air filter, with the duct at the throttle body disconnected and plugged securely. This way you are pressurizing the entire duct system but not allowing the air to go through the engine or turbo. Any leaks will be obvious with a little soapy water, or just listen for escaping air if the leak is a bad one.
DON'T try this with anything but clean, filtered, regulated air from a compressor or air tank! Don't exceed about 20 psi! Using a shop vac as an air source could be a disaster, since the air pressure is completely uncontrollable and not exactly free of dirt particles!
This procedure is usually unnecessary - if you look things over carefully you will usually find any leaks. It's the hidden couplings and intercooler that might de difficult to check.
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