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Intermittent Failing Heater Blower Motor

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Old 02-08-2011, 10:53 AM
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Default Intermittent Failing Heater Blower Motor

I have read many of the threads on this subject and none really layed out a clear solution. Some say replace the blower motor and they then find they still have the problem. Others talk about replacing the relay next to the fuse block. I really don't want to just replace parts indiscrimantly before researching the problem thoroughly. I could use some very clear direction as to what those have experienced this problem found as a solution.

OK, so here is what is happening and seems to get progressively worse as the days go by. I can turn the heat on when I first get into a cold car and it warms up and runs. Initially, it would run for a significant amount of time, say a half hour or hour, before the motor would stop blowing. It now bascially only blows air for about 10 minutes before "stopping." And by stopping, I mean that the bars indicate speed, but the blower is not producing air and kind of groans. It sort of sounds like the vanes are turning very slowly and rubbing against the housing (sort of, but not really).

If I turn it completely off to "cool down," then it might start up again for a very short period of time. Another interesting point to note is that sometimes when I hit a hard bump, the blower comes back on instantly (assuming that I have it turned on to a speed that I can hear). Car is a 1996 A4 with 214k miles.

I sure could use some help here to diagnose and fix DIY. I just spent a fortune on other repairs and don't feel like going to the shop again. Thanks.
Old 02-08-2011, 11:20 AM
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ok, your problem is EITHER the blower or the controller that is right behind the blower. Mine was the controller and i think yours is also. Its a small circuit with a big chunk of metal thats suppose to cool it as it tends to go HOT, and thuss it fails as mine did. I replaced with a German made (mine was spanish) and suprinzingly the german part has a much bigger cooling metal.

Buying a new FAN will also supply you with that controller. I don`t think you will find the controller for sale separatlly, i did not. Who knows maybe your lucky and theres just a wire loose but i bet the controller is KAPUT and after it heats your car for several minutes it cant take it anymore and it shuts off from overheating. In time it will go berserk and fan will start/stop when it wants.

Either buy a second hand fan with a controler or buy a new fan case (with controller in it).

Also to note: there`s a slight chance that your HVAC can be busted but i bet 99% its the controller. I had same thing happening, display was on max FAN |||||||||| and the blower wasnt doing anything. That controller controls the fans speed, witch you set on the HVAC.
Old 02-08-2011, 11:23 AM
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To remove it, open right passager door, remove the glove box (5 screws), 3 screws hold the fan and walla.

Fans dont fail that often, ussualy when they doeither speed is to low or it just shuts down forever.

Follow this DIY if you can see the pictures, use google translate, its in my language.

http://www.clubaudi.ro/how/20095-sch...ilator-ac.html

If you have to make an account for the pictures. THey will help.
Old 03-13-2011, 09:17 AM
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Cuiy,
Thank you for the reply. Your thread was very informative. My question to the brain trust here is how do you get to that top screw?
Old 03-14-2011, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by t6dpilot
Cuiy,
My question to the brain trust here is how do you get to that top screw?
Yea it can be a pain. I put a torx socket (don't remember the size) on it with no rachet, and turn the shaft of the torx with an open end wrench.
Old 03-17-2011, 07:48 AM
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OK, so I got the blower motor assembly out and applied 12V to it and it does not run. There is 12V at the two female connectors that go onto the blower motor, so I should be good there. I kept reading about a control module/resistor module that when it overheats, shuts the motor down and that sounds like what I was experiencing. I see this for sale on ECS's site.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...ontrol/Heater/

Is that what is being referred to when discussing the control module that overheats? If so, where is it and how do you get to it? Or should I just replace my motor assembly? Pics below... I have heard of some taking this apart to clean the DC motor brushes. How do you take this apart? I see not screws or clips. Need some knowledgeable help here. Thanks.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:00 AM
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You haven't said what year this B5 is, but that looks like the blower motor out of a 96. I believe that was the only year they used that motor. The motor and resister were different that year. The resistor you show in your ECS link is for 97 +.
Old 03-17-2011, 10:12 AM
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The original post has that information. It is a 1996 B5. Thanks
Old 03-19-2011, 01:45 AM
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yes, thats the old style motor. The part you need is the same as the one on ECS only the plug is different thats where your problem is. I suggest go look for a second hand part if you cant find a new one of that model.

I bought a SH one from a 2000 audi with "Made in Germany" inprint, good quality stuff .
My broken piece was made in Spain bleah, also the new part was from Spain + that metal heatsink was small. You should see the German part its "omg" compared to spanish crap ..

Or you can buy new blower+resistor if you can find them both, ussualy they come together as one piece.

You cant fix that part. The one on ECS wont fit you. Maybe e-mail them if they can get what you need..

edit: just for info can you dismantle the blower to see the control module?
Also keep in mind if you have Auto AC/ No Auto AC/ No AC it matters for that part. Wrong one wont work.

Glad to be of help.

Last edited by weaselciuy; 03-19-2011 at 01:48 AM.
Old 03-19-2011, 09:22 AM
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Your '96 is about 7K miles ahead of mine, so I may be looking at this job soon! That blower motor and impeller must pull out from the housing somehow, look through the curved plastic arms for some way to unclip or turn and release the assembly. I had an Audi 5000 with a blower that did the same thing; would not run sometimes, then start after being knocked. It was the brushes, which wore to the point that they weren't on the commutator properly. So being cheap, I bonded onto the back of each brush a little block of plastic, which got the preload and alignment back. It was still working fine when I sold the car.


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