mechanic says oil plug is on too tight, can't change oil - ideas?
#1
mechanic says oil plug is on too tight, can't change oil - ideas?
I stopped bringing my 1998 A4 1.8T (75k miles only) to the dealership as the charges were getting ridiculous. My latest trip to a new mechanic (we moved) that comes highly recommended has resulted in something weird. He says that the oil plug is on too tight and they can't get it off. Options are to not change the oil and only add to it until we have a warmer day and maybe they can get it off. Or, go in through a different route and risk breaking the oil pan (which would be expensive to replace).
Any ideas on this? Should I bring it to the dealer just for an oil change? Is there some tool the mechanic doesn't have or something? Thanks!
Any ideas on this? Should I bring it to the dealer just for an oil change? Is there some tool the mechanic doesn't have or something? Thanks!
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: British Columbia
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A few options...
I see two/three options:
-Take it to and independent or dealer, and remove the bolt. The drain plug shouldn't be that tight, I'm guessing that it has been threaded improperly and will probably strip while coming out. Rethread the hole and put in a oversize plug.
-Change oil/filter via vacuum method (kinda like a boat, vac sucks the oil out of the engine)
-Remove oil pan, replace with new one
Good luck,
-Take it to and independent or dealer, and remove the bolt. The drain plug shouldn't be that tight, I'm guessing that it has been threaded improperly and will probably strip while coming out. Rethread the hole and put in a oversize plug.
-Change oil/filter via vacuum method (kinda like a boat, vac sucks the oil out of the engine)
-Remove oil pan, replace with new one
Good luck,
#4
Disagree. This is a common problem with steel plugs and aluminum pans. If the plug is overtightened, it's a bitch to get it loose. There should be no need to re-thread anything or replace the pan. A couple of whacks with a hammer to shock or chiseling it out are quick and easy.
#6
The tool your are looking for, or I suppose that your mechanic is looking for is a power bleeder/vacuum pump. In fact, if you got one you could do oil changes in your drive way without having to jack the car up. The pump vacuums out the old oil. You unscrew the filter from above, screw new filter on and fill it up with oil. Very easy and very straightforward. Everyone that gets these pumps swears by them. You can use them for transmission and brake bleeding as well.
Click here for Power Bleeder details
Click here for Power Bleeder details
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#7
AudiWorld Super User
Aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel, which is why a propane torch will sometimes help. This operation is a sure fire hazard, so don't even consider using a torch to heat the area around the plug unless every precaution is taken to keep flammable stuff away, and have a fire extinguisher near. Once the area around the plug is hot, slip a box-end wrench onto the plug and give the wrench handle a whack with a plastic-headed hammer.
I had to replace my 2.8's drain plug with an oversize repair version, because the threads broke. This was no doubt due to over-tightening in its past. The plug that I used was a self-tapping kind, so you had to use it like any tap: turn until metal is cut, remove and clean, repeat until fully threaded in.
I had to replace my 2.8's drain plug with an oversize repair version, because the threads broke. This was no doubt due to over-tightening in its past. The plug that I used was a self-tapping kind, so you had to use it like any tap: turn until metal is cut, remove and clean, repeat until fully threaded in.
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#8
Why whack it with a hammer if you can use a impact gun ? I would have him give it a quick hit with a torch if done correctly you will not mess up the aluminum. Or PB blast it, let it soak for a while.Then impact it.Now if the drain plug head is starting to get messed up they make a socket called a Turbo Twist.It is fluted and spiraled in reverse. It gets smaller the deeper it is installed on head of plug.The reverse flutes will grab harder as you turn it. Irwin/ S-k/ Snap -on all have them. Probably NAPA etc all have them, just ask.The plugs head may be messed up when done, of course a torque wrench would have probably prevented this along with anti- sieze.
#10
Anytime you use a impact gun you generally push against the socket to keep it from jumping off.With breaker bar or ratchet the twist socket will grab as it is being turned .You would be suprised where PB will penetrate, not saying it will work but it is Def. worth a try.Also not trying to start a arguement. Been selling Snap-On for 25 years and have seen a lot of stuff in those shops on a stop to stop to basis.
The guys on flat rate at Euro shops love the vacuum pump.Sold like 8 in one MB dealership. No belly pan to drop and they do not have to spend any time positioning car for lift. Saves them about 1/2 hour believe it or not.Pays for itself in just few oil changes.Good luck Magicman
The guys on flat rate at Euro shops love the vacuum pump.Sold like 8 in one MB dealership. No belly pan to drop and they do not have to spend any time positioning car for lift. Saves them about 1/2 hour believe it or not.Pays for itself in just few oil changes.Good luck Magicman