Islanddr

No joy with the switch. On to the starter. Anyone have any directions on the best way to get at the starter.

ID

HBAudi

If you intend to work on the vehicle yourself, it is useful to invest in a Bentley manual (www.bentleypublishers.com) as it will explain the steps and items to be moved/removed to complete each job.

Removing the starter on your vehicle requires placing the radiator support into the service position. The steps are documented in the Bentley manual and you may also want to search the technical section of this forum for any write-ups on DIY tips.

Islanddr

Thank you. I looked in a manuel and since I have and A/C unit it says I will have to go to the service position. That Sucks. I checked the tech section and found very limited info.

I guess it's time to get dirty. Will keep you informed of what happens.

4Driver4

Sounds familiar.

Motomaniac77

Is the bentley manual better than any of the other publishers like haynes etc? I was going to buy one tonight but figured I would get an opinion on which one is more useful than the other first.

turbo510

I have a copy of the Chilton "VW Passat 1998-2001 & Audi A4 1996-2001" manual, and for some things it is worthwhile. Not a substitute for the Bentley, but at $9 new (Amazon) can be useful. Use of scan tools (VAG-COM or handhelds) is practically discouraged, with such statements as "requires a dealership scan-tool to diagnose" being common. The Chilton is best for jobs that are better explained with photos, such as interior disassembly.

mtroxel

The Bentley is far superior to anything I've seen. I have the digital version on my laptop. That's nice for someone like me who can look things up when I'm between clients when I have a problem.

CactusGreenA4

All:

Wanted to post a follow-up for all those future searches from those looking to do the same repair. I've certainly benefited from others who took the time on other repairs.

Problem: 99.5 A4 1.8T 166K miles. Few weeks of slow starting turned into sudden no starting. All dash lights, alarm, locks continue to work. Turn the key and get zero response, silence. No clicking even from the solenoid. Tried starting in neutral, foot on brake, nothing. First expected it was a weak battery as it was several years past expiration.

Fix: Replaced battery, cleaned cables, no start. Jumped car with truck, still no start. Jumped the starter with cables, no start. Narrowed it down to starter, Alarm Module, Central Locking Pump, Ignition Switch, or Neutral/Safety Switch.

First, used test light and tested the power from the battery to the starter (fat cable)and confirmed the power was good. Next, tested the signal from the igintion to the starter (small wire) while wife turned the ignition switch and again got a signal. Felt certain it was the starter, seemed proabable given miles and the oil leak I have dripping right on top of the starter.

To remove the starter you have to remove the ac compressor. You can only get access to the ac compressor belt by removing the front bumper. I opted not to put the car in "full service" position. I simply removed the front bumper and had plenty of access to the compressor belt tensioner. Dropped the comprssor out with lines still attached, setting it aside upon a paint can. Learned its best to compress the bumper from the top and bottom like an accordian where it wraps around the side of the car. On the sides where the bumper meets the tire, brackets make it impossible to slide the bumper straight out to the front, so just compress the bumper at the sides and it pops out of that bracket.

The starter is primarily secured to bell housing by two bolts. On my car, the bottom bolt was removed towards the front of the car, the top bolt was removed towards the back of the car. The top bolt was pure hell getting out, used lots of PB Plaster and just a socket wrench with an flexible head attachment.

Refit took a fraction of the time as removal. I first cleaned everything underneath given the oil leak. No issues with mounting starter as it seats itself on the wheel once secured with the moutning bolts. As soon as the starter was back in and cables attached, ac compr still off, I connected the battery and tried to turn it over. I nearly pissed myself as the car was still completely dead. Figured out that the replacement starter I purchased had the signal connection switched around. I simply attched the signal line to the other male connection and it fired right up.

Thanks alot to 4Driver4 for putting up with my lazy questions. Good luck.

4Driver4

Nice jerb!

You might also consider replacing the ignition switch at this point. They tend to stick. It might be the root cause of your bad starter. Buy a new switch at the dealer; it's worth the extra money and still pretty cheap.

Islanddr

Problem solved and yes it is the ignition switch that causes the starter to go out. I didn't realize I had and ignition problem until I changed the starter FROM UNDERNEATH THE CAR. At first a bugger of a chore but it was easier the second time. I realised it was the key ignition after changing the starter and Vola all was well. Took it for a drive had some strange noises and electrical wierdness and then the problem with restarting. On the second start i realised I had to turn the key back manually to get things right but by that time burned the new starter. Thank God no real damage to other more expensive parts. Changed it and and the ignition switch and yes problem solved.

This should be on the recall list and sugestions.