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Jan 4, 2004 | 07:45 AM

stanlee13

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Please help!!

I was driving yesterday after filling up from empty. About 30 miles from my house and the car starts to rattle. After about 30 seconds the MIL light goes on in a blinking fashion. I read the manual and it says I can keep driving at a less powered level so I try to make it home. About half way the rattling stops and the light goes solid. Drives fine, but still the light. Not sure what this can possibly be, but I will need to take it into the dealer. My ECU has a chip in it. Should I take it out before hand. They told me they are generally very lenient about things like that, but I am not sure I want to take a chance.

Any advice. Thanks,

1999.5 1.8T
APR Stage II

Jan 4, 2004 | 07:52 AM

Yippers®

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Misfires . . bad plug(s), coil pack(s), power output stage or perhaps bad gas given how soon after

filling you experienced the issue. From what I've read here, it is a pretty unusual dealer (mine is totally reasonable) that won't automagically blame a chip.

Jan 4, 2004 | 08:04 AM

stanlee13

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Re: Misfires . . bad plug(s), coil pack(s), power output stage or perhaps bad gas given how soon aft

unable to find the link for instructions on how to switch the computer on this site. can you possibly reply with it?

thanks

Jan 4, 2004 | 08:09 AM

Yippers®

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Here's a link to a ECU change 'how to'

<ul><li><a href="http://www.goapr.com/Audi/support/ecu_a4_s4_a6_late.pdf">http://www.goapr.com/Audi/support/ecu_a4_s4_a6_late.pdf</a</li></ul>

Jan 4, 2004 | 08:33 AM

dre420

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1st off check sp and wires i had the same prob i change the sp and wire and problem went away

Jan 4, 2004 | 08:39 AM

JAFO

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since you just filled it....

put in a container of drigas. did you go to your regular station? there's a lot of water in gas in the winter at stations that don't sell a lot of premium!

Jan 4, 2004 | 09:14 AM

RKA

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Stan...a bunch of us will be getting together Sat AM for a suspension install

on a TT. If you want, drive your car down to New Brunwick, and we'll check it out for you. I'm willing to bet money that the Ignition Amp is toast. Vag.com will likely show misfires on cyl 2, and even after swapping coils and plugs, it will probably still remain on #2. One warning though...it's gonna be cold, and you won't find many volunteers to do the coil and plug swapping. We'll show you what needs to be done (and it's easy), but you'll be out in the cold *doing* it. We'll have a vag.com handy as well.

If you're under warranty, then your dealer should fix this...but I'm assuming you don't have a warranty.

The part in question will cost about $250 to fix at the dealer. If you DIY (really easy), it'll be about $150 (mail order the part).