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RKA - You say the Porter Cable is "idiot proof" compared to a standard rotory polisher..

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Old 07-31-2004, 07:57 PM
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Default RKA - You say the Porter Cable is "idiot proof" compared to a standard rotory polisher..

I'm nervous to use a polisher of this caliber because I dont want to damage clear coat.

How does this device differ from other polishers...specifically - what makes it "idiot proof"?
Old 07-31-2004, 08:57 PM
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Random orbit is very much like repeated hand motion
Old 07-31-2004, 09:47 PM
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Default If you press too hard, the head only vibrates...it will no longer rotate.

That limits your ability to do damage.

You can still burn the paint if you run the polisher at high speeds (5 and over), but I rarely do that unless I have a trouble spot that I need to deal with.

You can also fvck up the paint if you get the pad dirty (drop it on the ground) and use it (hopefully this part is common sense).

Short of the above precautions, you should be okay.
Old 07-31-2004, 09:48 PM
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RKA
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Default I take it you got home okay?

Ed's phone disconnected you (I could barely make out what you were saying), while I was talking.
Old 07-31-2004, 10:19 PM
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Default Yup...

I was out in the middle of nowhere, New Jersey... Medford Lakes or somewhere like that. I went out on Route 70 looking for a Walmart that was the only place that sold Moribundman's favorite 5W40 Mobil 1 oil. Finally found it after about an hour of searching, damn place was recessed from the road about a hundred yards.

I was trying to get ahold of you because I had a theory, that I'd been stopped for about 10 minutes (calling a friend to figure out where the hell I was) and it was some kind of heatsoak making the temperature climb. In essence, being stopped, no water pump to circulate the coolant, so in 90 degree temps after spirited driving for about 40 minutes, the temp climbs past high noon. I let it cool back down to normal, then started off back toward home after getting off the phone with you. I kept an eye on the gauge and it never veered off of the normal line.

Is my idea of heatsoak totally off-base? It doesn't seem to be an issue when driving.
Old 07-31-2004, 10:36 PM
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RKA
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Default Well, like I said on the phone...

it shouldn't wander during normal street driving, so take this as a sign that something is on it's way out. Probably create any serious issues for a while, but keep an eye on that temp gauge.

Primary culprits are the thermostat, water pump, and the fan. I'd put my money on one of the first two.
Old 08-01-2004, 03:04 AM
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Default Even with a direct drive (rotary) buffer and a black (3m) pad, using hand glaze or machine polish...

you won't cut the clear, but you will get a nice shine. There is no way an orbital will cut the clear down, since they go so slow they don't make any heat. I always use my DD machine with foam polishing pads for IHG, it's totally fine.

Using an orbital will be fine.
Old 08-01-2004, 03:11 AM
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Default Not to pry, but if the temp rises when you are still, and falls when you move, that's the fan..

if it rises even at speed, and eventually falls, it can be the pump. If the thermostat is stuck closed, or opens really late, the temps will rise, and just stay high. IF the thermostat is stuck open or opens early, the temps will be normal when still, and drop when moving, unless it's hot enough to keep the heat in the engine.
Old 08-01-2004, 06:39 AM
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Default All good points...but here's what throws me...

I've seen several people with these types of issues (coolant temps stray higher when the car is in traffic). It's never been the fan. One person resolutely swears it was the thermostat. I suppose if it couldn't open fully, this might be true. He's only been driving the car a week since the repair...jury is still out, but I have a feeling he'll be doing the water pump soon. Another tried the thermostat, go nowhere with it, and moved onto the water pump (still waiting to see if that cures it). And the last individual just replaced the thermostat and water pump because they were well past due...and everything was fine afterwards.

Digit@lex was replacing his water pump last night...after already trying the thermostat and getting nowhere. Inspecting the old pump, I didn't find excessive play in the shaft, and it turned freely. There was some seepage out of the bottom of the pump, so something was going on...but we're not sure what. Unfortunately, it may be another week or two before he gets things buttoned back up and adequately tested, but odds are it was a failing water pump in his case.

Question for you...the main fan is a variable speed fan, correct? If so, where are the other parts of the system that measure temps and generate the signal that change the fan speed?
Old 08-01-2004, 08:25 AM
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Default Just to clarify...

The fan sounds like a strong possibility to me. I wasn't driving when the temperature went up. I drove about 40 minutes, then pulled off the road to make a phone call and noticed the gauge was off high noon after maybe 10 minutes of talking on the phone. I sat there for another 5 or so minutes, by which point it cooled down to noon. If memory serves, it was a bit past the first large line beyond noon. I don't remember exactly, it was more of an "oh ****, why's the coolant temp that high!?" kind of reaction.

I'd like to think it isn't the thermostat or the water pump. To my knowledge, both were replaced a year ago when Woodlawn did my timing belt service. I assume the process to replace the fan would basically be the same as installing an EFK? Any reason not to just do an EFK? I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if the problem recurs and if the fan is or isn't running.

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