Stage 3 first week log
07-05-2001, 07:01 AM
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Stage 3 first week log
6/30/01
Don shows up right on time at 7:30 am at my house in the Crudola renter. We cruise up to his place and begin unboxing the kit. We get the car on ramps and attack the car at about 8:15. NickS and LCP show up in the next few minutes. We keep up a steady pace of work until about 11:30 when the pizza shows up. Lunch break. We get back into a groove until about 4pm when Don has to clean up for a function that evening. I catch a ride home with LCP. I am guessing we have about 3 hours of work left. I am BONE tired. One brewski that evening and I'm toast.
7/1/01
Don is again punctual picking me up and we attack the car (we're reassembling at this point) by 8:00. NickS comes by shortly after to cheer us on. Unfortunately he has to bail before we finish. We finish the job about 11:15 or so.
It fires up on the first try. Of course there is a screaming sound coming from the engine which Don says sounds like a belt. He kills it...can't see anything...restart...CHING!...a hose clamp shoots out from under the car. It must have been a spare that had fallen in, as all hoses are clamped securely. Car is idling well, so we put the belly pan on and back it off the ramps. Immediately there is an exhaust rattle. I bend down and see that the middle muffler is touching a suspension mounting point...go to the other side of the car and realize the whole exhaust has moved and needs to be pushed back into one of the exhaust hangers bushings. While I'm trying to think of a tool that will allow this, Don wiggles the exhaust back and forth vigorously...and it goes right where it should.
We take a short neighborhood tour...notice a 5000RPM rattle. We get to a straightaway and do a WOT run...we get a lovely peak boost of 25psi. Back to the garage.
Back on ramps, we diagnose the rattle as a screw on the belly pan that wasn't tightened (my fault). The peak boost was the frequency valve mounted backwards (my fault again, but I know I triple checked that thing!) Another check around the block including some WOT tests and we pronounce it done!
We clean up his garage, and I think I was headed home by 1:00pm. WOW...about the only way to describe the power. About 3 turns away from my house at a stop light, it dies. Refuses to restart. I call AAA and get comfortable in the heat. After about 10 minutes, I try one more time and it roughly comes to life. I scoot home keeping my foot on the gas slightly the whole way. I was tired and a little discouraged by the stall...I park it and sit on the couch.
Don & I talk later that day and decide that we didn't properly do the throttle adaptation...and he mentions that I can do the 'tap' test to see if there is a loose solder joint in the ECU. I do another throttle adaptation, and it passes the tap test. I leave it until morning.
7/2/01
I run to work early before traffic and I don't turn on the a/c. It behaves very well. I get to the parking garage and park, but leave it idling. If I turn on the a/c, then step on the throttle, it doesn't hold the idle well and occasionally threatens to stall. I do another throttle adaptation at lunch and it repeats this same behavior for the trek to and from lunch with a new wrinkle: If idling with the a/c on, then cut the a/c, the idle hunts for a few secs.
Speak to APR. They confirm that this is a known issue and appears to have a software update that was released about a week after I got my ECU back. LOL. Getting a home programmer sent over so I don't have to have any down time. This will allow me to install software updates directly into the ECU from my computer. Nice.
Car runs perfect for the drive home, no a/c.
7/3/01
Car again runs great to work, no a/c. I'm still not comfortable enough to really hammer on it like i did on sunday for the drive home from Don's, but I am beginning to use some of the power. I'll say this: if i use the throttle like I did with a 1bar chip to get by someone on the freeway, I am now squirting by the intended target and RIGHT UP ON SOMEONE ELSE. Must learn some control!
Drive home was fine, no a/c.
7/4/01
Only took the car out for a short trip to Home Depot...but I did manage to make it a bit longer by staying on the freeway for a couple extra exits. Power is great.
Went ahead and filled up with gas. After all the pre-install and post-install WOT runs, I apparently got 8MPG!!!! BOOO!
Squeeking sound is still around...some have suggested it is a brake noise. I'll keep an eye on it. Only hear it at low speed (<10 mph).
On the way home, turned on the a/c in the neighborhood. It repeated the symptom...unable to maintain a smooth idle when you first lift with clutch in. Awaiting software...
7/5/01
Drive into work was a blast. I confirmed that the coolant temp comes up at just about the same as stock rate, but the oil temp takes FOREVER to get to operating level. My guess is that b/c the GT25 doesn't use the oil for cooling, only lubrication, the heat transfer is much lower.
Don shows up right on time at 7:30 am at my house in the Crudola renter. We cruise up to his place and begin unboxing the kit. We get the car on ramps and attack the car at about 8:15. NickS and LCP show up in the next few minutes. We keep up a steady pace of work until about 11:30 when the pizza shows up. Lunch break. We get back into a groove until about 4pm when Don has to clean up for a function that evening. I catch a ride home with LCP. I am guessing we have about 3 hours of work left. I am BONE tired. One brewski that evening and I'm toast.
7/1/01
Don is again punctual picking me up and we attack the car (we're reassembling at this point) by 8:00. NickS comes by shortly after to cheer us on. Unfortunately he has to bail before we finish. We finish the job about 11:15 or so.
It fires up on the first try. Of course there is a screaming sound coming from the engine which Don says sounds like a belt. He kills it...can't see anything...restart...CHING!...a hose clamp shoots out from under the car. It must have been a spare that had fallen in, as all hoses are clamped securely. Car is idling well, so we put the belly pan on and back it off the ramps. Immediately there is an exhaust rattle. I bend down and see that the middle muffler is touching a suspension mounting point...go to the other side of the car and realize the whole exhaust has moved and needs to be pushed back into one of the exhaust hangers bushings. While I'm trying to think of a tool that will allow this, Don wiggles the exhaust back and forth vigorously...and it goes right where it should.
We take a short neighborhood tour...notice a 5000RPM rattle. We get to a straightaway and do a WOT run...we get a lovely peak boost of 25psi. Back to the garage.
Back on ramps, we diagnose the rattle as a screw on the belly pan that wasn't tightened (my fault). The peak boost was the frequency valve mounted backwards (my fault again, but I know I triple checked that thing!) Another check around the block including some WOT tests and we pronounce it done!
We clean up his garage, and I think I was headed home by 1:00pm. WOW...about the only way to describe the power. About 3 turns away from my house at a stop light, it dies. Refuses to restart. I call AAA and get comfortable in the heat. After about 10 minutes, I try one more time and it roughly comes to life. I scoot home keeping my foot on the gas slightly the whole way. I was tired and a little discouraged by the stall...I park it and sit on the couch.
Don & I talk later that day and decide that we didn't properly do the throttle adaptation...and he mentions that I can do the 'tap' test to see if there is a loose solder joint in the ECU. I do another throttle adaptation, and it passes the tap test. I leave it until morning.
7/2/01
I run to work early before traffic and I don't turn on the a/c. It behaves very well. I get to the parking garage and park, but leave it idling. If I turn on the a/c, then step on the throttle, it doesn't hold the idle well and occasionally threatens to stall. I do another throttle adaptation at lunch and it repeats this same behavior for the trek to and from lunch with a new wrinkle: If idling with the a/c on, then cut the a/c, the idle hunts for a few secs.
Speak to APR. They confirm that this is a known issue and appears to have a software update that was released about a week after I got my ECU back. LOL. Getting a home programmer sent over so I don't have to have any down time. This will allow me to install software updates directly into the ECU from my computer. Nice.
Car runs perfect for the drive home, no a/c.
7/3/01
Car again runs great to work, no a/c. I'm still not comfortable enough to really hammer on it like i did on sunday for the drive home from Don's, but I am beginning to use some of the power. I'll say this: if i use the throttle like I did with a 1bar chip to get by someone on the freeway, I am now squirting by the intended target and RIGHT UP ON SOMEONE ELSE. Must learn some control!
Drive home was fine, no a/c.
7/4/01
Only took the car out for a short trip to Home Depot...but I did manage to make it a bit longer by staying on the freeway for a couple extra exits. Power is great.
Went ahead and filled up with gas. After all the pre-install and post-install WOT runs, I apparently got 8MPG!!!! BOOO!
Squeeking sound is still around...some have suggested it is a brake noise. I'll keep an eye on it. Only hear it at low speed (<10 mph).
On the way home, turned on the a/c in the neighborhood. It repeated the symptom...unable to maintain a smooth idle when you first lift with clutch in. Awaiting software...
7/5/01
Drive into work was a blast. I confirmed that the coolant temp comes up at just about the same as stock rate, but the oil temp takes FOREVER to get to operating level. My guess is that b/c the GT25 doesn't use the oil for cooling, only lubrication, the heat transfer is much lower.
07-05-2001, 07:13 AM
#4
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Disconnect ECU or battery for a few minutes.
Reconnect.
Turn car to ON, but do not start.
Leave like this for 3 minutes. You will hear a buzzing at the throttle body.
Start car.
done.
Reconnect.
Turn car to ON, but do not start.
Leave like this for 3 minutes. You will hear a buzzing at the throttle body.
Start car.
done.
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07-05-2001, 07:29 AM
#8
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let's the computer determine relative throttle position...
So for a given voltage rating of the TPS (throttle position sensor), it will know actual throttle position. I think it may only read closed and then open for non-DBW cars, like mine, and then interpolate between, but i could be wrong.
steve
steve
