TB and Oil Pump replacement - long and BWW
06-09-2004, 09:04 AM
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TB and Oil Pump replacement - long and BWW
Well, once the parts arrived, it didn't take long to get to this point in the
garage. Taking off the lock carrier was easier than expected with the
exception of the upper radiator hose. Once I figured out which part of the
hose to tap on, it came apart fairly easily. I used a flat headed
screwdriver and a rubber mallet the lightly tap on the outside edge of the hose
connection once the metal retainer was removed. You can notice the small
puddle of ATF fluid on the floor. There is an ATF heat exchanger
integrated into the radiator (tiptronic transmission only of course).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/a4_lock_carrier_removed.jpg">
Here is the front of the engine after removing the old timing belt. The Tech articles on this subject are plenty informative.
The new belt was 1/2 tooth shorter than the old belt. I believe this will
stretch over time. I didn't research the pump change very much, and the
info I had didn't seem correct for the AEB engine, so I was kind of winging the
coolant pump change. I suspected a little more coolant would spill as I
removed the pump. I severely underestimated the amount of coolant still in
the engine. I highly recommend using the drain on the pump housing to
capture as much as you can BEFORE pulling the pump.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/timing_belt_removed.jpg">
Since the front was off the car, I decided to go ahead and attempt to pull
the oil pan and replace the oil pump. I had gotten the oil pressure
warning alarm a couple of times since buying the car. It was intermittent
and infrequent, but rather troubling. I STFA and found out about the
oil pump pickup screen getting clogged. I hoped this was the problem, but
decided to get a new oil pump anyway since the pan would be off. The
Bentley Manual made is sound fairly easy to lift the engine and drop the front
of the sub-frame. It actually was pretty easy to do both. The hard
part came when you got the the single line in the manual that says "remove
the oil pan". As you can see in this photo, the hoist is right under
the engine. Getting to all of the bolts was a major pain with the hoist in
the way.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/hooking_up_the_hoist.jpg">
In this photo you can see the amount of clearance that has been added by
lifting the engine by looking at the motor mount. Even with the
motor lifted as far as the firewall would allow, the sub-frame had to be pried
down with a 2X4 to get the oil pan and oil pump bolts (very long bolts)
out. I used the same 2X4 to get the new oil pump and oil pan back into
place.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/old_oil_pump.jpg">
Nearly finished by this point - I used the hoist to get the sub-frame
remounted. I lowered the engine down enough to reconnect the motor
mounts. Then I gently raised the engine and sub-frame back into position.
This photo shows the old snub mount on the lock carrier. A crow's foot
pry bar made short work of the old mount. A microwave oven and rubber
mallet made short work of the new mount.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/lock_carrier.jpg">
Final notes - Don't forget to plug in your turn signal lights before
you remount the bumper. It is much easier with the bumper skin off the
vehicle. Also, don't forget to reconnect the coolant level sensor on the
bottom of the expansion tank. Otherwise you will be looking at a coolant
level warning for no reason. If I had to do this again, I would drain the
transmission of ATF and remove the lines to the heat exchanger before working on
the oil pan. The lines were really in the way during this job.
garage. Taking off the lock carrier was easier than expected with the
exception of the upper radiator hose. Once I figured out which part of the
hose to tap on, it came apart fairly easily. I used a flat headed
screwdriver and a rubber mallet the lightly tap on the outside edge of the hose
connection once the metal retainer was removed. You can notice the small
puddle of ATF fluid on the floor. There is an ATF heat exchanger
integrated into the radiator (tiptronic transmission only of course).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/a4_lock_carrier_removed.jpg">
Here is the front of the engine after removing the old timing belt. The Tech articles on this subject are plenty informative.
The new belt was 1/2 tooth shorter than the old belt. I believe this will
stretch over time. I didn't research the pump change very much, and the
info I had didn't seem correct for the AEB engine, so I was kind of winging the
coolant pump change. I suspected a little more coolant would spill as I
removed the pump. I severely underestimated the amount of coolant still in
the engine. I highly recommend using the drain on the pump housing to
capture as much as you can BEFORE pulling the pump.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/timing_belt_removed.jpg">
Since the front was off the car, I decided to go ahead and attempt to pull
the oil pan and replace the oil pump. I had gotten the oil pressure
warning alarm a couple of times since buying the car. It was intermittent
and infrequent, but rather troubling. I STFA and found out about the
oil pump pickup screen getting clogged. I hoped this was the problem, but
decided to get a new oil pump anyway since the pan would be off. The
Bentley Manual made is sound fairly easy to lift the engine and drop the front
of the sub-frame. It actually was pretty easy to do both. The hard
part came when you got the the single line in the manual that says "remove
the oil pan". As you can see in this photo, the hoist is right under
the engine. Getting to all of the bolts was a major pain with the hoist in
the way.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/hooking_up_the_hoist.jpg">
In this photo you can see the amount of clearance that has been added by
lifting the engine by looking at the motor mount. Even with the
motor lifted as far as the firewall would allow, the sub-frame had to be pried
down with a 2X4 to get the oil pan and oil pump bolts (very long bolts)
out. I used the same 2X4 to get the new oil pump and oil pan back into
place.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/old_oil_pump.jpg">
Nearly finished by this point - I used the hoist to get the sub-frame
remounted. I lowered the engine down enough to reconnect the motor
mounts. Then I gently raised the engine and sub-frame back into position.
This photo shows the old snub mount on the lock carrier. A crow's foot
pry bar made short work of the old mount. A microwave oven and rubber
mallet made short work of the new mount.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/lock_carrier.jpg">
Final notes - Don't forget to plug in your turn signal lights before
you remount the bumper. It is much easier with the bumper skin off the
vehicle. Also, don't forget to reconnect the coolant level sensor on the
bottom of the expansion tank. Otherwise you will be looking at a coolant
level warning for no reason. If I had to do this again, I would drain the
transmission of ATF and remove the lines to the heat exchanger before working on
the oil pan. The lines were really in the way during this job.
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