skoorbevad

...along with S4 wheel liners. I think my stock BPV was torn... after I drove with the TT225 valve in, the boost came on MUCH smoother, and the engine accelerated smoothly with no burps.

Also, is it just me, or does the passenger side S4 liner go in less smoothly than the drivers side? I really had to pull some magic to get the screws into the right places in the liner and into the fenderwell... and all of them wouldnt go back in (though, there are plenty of screws in it to hold it snugly to the fenderwell all the way around) unless I made my own holes. But other than that, it was excellent.

So far, this is the only thing ive done to my car, and I can already feel the improvement. Hopefully this will make my GIAC experience next weekend.

Just thought I'd come and rant.

DAB

BigRonsAudi

if so how hard was it and what clamps did you use

skoorbevad

...and I rate my mechanical ability about a 5 on a scale of 1 - 10. It was pretty straight forward. The hardest part is getting to it.

I went to the hardware store and bought some hose clamps... two about 1.5" in diameter, and 1 tiny one. Turns out all I needed was one 1.5" one.

Basically the hose located on the bottom of the valve you can re-use the clamp, since it can be tightened/untightened with a flathead screw driver. The other clamp you kinda of have to jimmy off with a screw driver, and the third clamp really isnt a clamp at all - the small'ish braided hose on the skinny nipple on the valve was zip-tied snugly on.

I jacked the passenger side of the car up (supported with jackstands!), removed the wheel liner, and took off the front valance. at this point you can get up under there and the valve is right in front of your face.

Note the orientation of the valve, then cut off the zip tie and slide off the braided hose. Next, loosen the re-usable clamp and yank the valve (a careful yank) out of the hose. Then you can pull the valve down some and really get at the crimp-clamp with a screwdriver. It took a minute of tinkering, then I figured out the "trick" to removing the clamp. (Its not too hard, it cant really be explained though, so think of it as a puzzle

Once I pulled out the original valve, installation of the new one takes about 3 seconds. Just side those hoses on, clamp em down (I used a zip tie on the braided hose, make sure youve got one handy). Then put your car back together.

I could probably do it in 15 - 20 minutes again now that I know what goes where. Took me a little longer the first time because I've never even touched an Audi mechanically before.

VicG

encounter a problem with boost, with that clamp, it'd be the first place I'd look. Nothing like a real hose clamp you can tighten/loosen.
They use those crimp clamps only for two reasons - speed to install, and cheap. For what a screw type clamp costs, it's cheap insurance.

spider418

You get 25 for $6.88

You need the 9.5 mm one for the vacuum hose. You can clamp it with wire cutters.

<img src="http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/gfx/large/52545kp1l.gif">

3/8" 5/16"- 3/8" 7.8-9.5 52545K42

You can also get the bigger single-use clamp for the other side, but I forget the size. The max size in mm is stamped on the clamp, check the one you take off.

If you want the reusable kind, this one is nice
<img src="http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/gfx/large/8946kp1l.gif"><ul><li><a href="http://www.mcmaster.com">Do a search on ear clamp</a></li></ul>

BigRonsAudi

also I fallowed you with taking off the wheel linear, but what part is the front valance and do you have to take it off.

skoorbevad

Just really crank it down. Only use the zip tie on te braided hose, make sure to use screwable hose clamps on the others.

The front valance is the piece of plastic that runs up under the car under the front bumper. Theres like 5 screws that hold it in. Take them ou and it falls right out.

At that point, you can get to the valve pretty good.

I've heard stories that you can remove the airbox and get to the valve from the top, but I dont see how that would be easy at all.

DAB