Timing Issues On 2002 Audi A4 B6 3.0
#1
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Timing Issues On 2002 Audi A4 B6 3.0
Okay so idek how to explain this, my previous post is somewhat the same but no solid answers to my issue.
So, let me first say no I don’t have the cam lock tool or crank pin yet. I wanted to know exactly what to do first before I get it.
Let me try and make this organized to understand my issue better. I can post images as well if needed.
1st Issue: Crank Pulley Is Rusted // Hard to find the TDC MARKING
2nd Issue: Cams only have a yellow dot on the cap cover, is the yellow marking for the TDC?
3rd Issue: Would I need to lock the crankshaft to adjust the cams? Or will that bend the valves more if I turned them clockwise to get piston #3 to TDC?
I have so many questions it’s not even funny, I just honestly need to know how to “TIME” the cams first before I put the belt back on.
That’s literally all I have to do to get this motor running again and I can’t find a single video on just how to set the timing for JUST the cams.
I know the crank has to be TDC first before anything so I’ll try that first today and see how that goes, but will I need cam locks to do that so the cams don’t move?
Then once the crank is set, lock it in then should I unlock the cam locks to adjust the cams or leave them on to adjust?
No real directions anywhere so if anyone has been wondering the same, now is the time to join in to solve this issue for anyone else down the road.
So, let me first say no I don’t have the cam lock tool or crank pin yet. I wanted to know exactly what to do first before I get it.
Let me try and make this organized to understand my issue better. I can post images as well if needed.
1st Issue: Crank Pulley Is Rusted // Hard to find the TDC MARKING
2nd Issue: Cams only have a yellow dot on the cap cover, is the yellow marking for the TDC?
3rd Issue: Would I need to lock the crankshaft to adjust the cams? Or will that bend the valves more if I turned them clockwise to get piston #3 to TDC?
I have so many questions it’s not even funny, I just honestly need to know how to “TIME” the cams first before I put the belt back on.
That’s literally all I have to do to get this motor running again and I can’t find a single video on just how to set the timing for JUST the cams.
I know the crank has to be TDC first before anything so I’ll try that first today and see how that goes, but will I need cam locks to do that so the cams don’t move?
Then once the crank is set, lock it in then should I unlock the cam locks to adjust the cams or leave them on to adjust?
No real directions anywhere so if anyone has been wondering the same, now is the time to join in to solve this issue for anyone else down the road.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
There are some good tech write-ups either here or AudiForums, check both.
Yellow mark on cap covers are not useful for timing, not sure why they are there on your engine.
You are likely to collide some valves and pistons if you try to turn the crank without the cams also turning as they should. At this point I'd try to get a straight answer from the seller: was the engine running correctly before the belt was taken off, where is the old belt now, and did he set the crank and cams to the correct TDC position before taking it apart?
There is a way to rotate the crank such that no pistons are within striking distance of valves, I think it is 45 degrees BTDC, but the problem is rotating to that position without hitting valves in the process. In that position, the cams can be rotated so the cam-locks fit, then the crank is put at TDC. Keep in mind that this is wasted work if valves are already bent or will be trying to get the crank to the safe position.
Yellow mark on cap covers are not useful for timing, not sure why they are there on your engine.
You are likely to collide some valves and pistons if you try to turn the crank without the cams also turning as they should. At this point I'd try to get a straight answer from the seller: was the engine running correctly before the belt was taken off, where is the old belt now, and did he set the crank and cams to the correct TDC position before taking it apart?
There is a way to rotate the crank such that no pistons are within striking distance of valves, I think it is 45 degrees BTDC, but the problem is rotating to that position without hitting valves in the process. In that position, the cams can be rotated so the cam-locks fit, then the crank is put at TDC. Keep in mind that this is wasted work if valves are already bent or will be trying to get the crank to the safe position.
#3
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
There are some good tech write-ups either here or AudiForums, check both.
Yellow mark on cap covers are not useful for timing, not sure why they are there on your engine.
You are likely to collide some valves and pistons if you try to turn the crank without the cams also turning as they should. At this point I'd try to get a straight answer from the seller: was the engine running correctly before the belt was taken off, where is the old belt now, and did he set the crank and cams to the correct TDC position before taking it apart?
There is a way to rotate the crank such that no pistons are within striking distance of valves, I think it is 45 degrees BTDC, but the problem is rotating to that position without hitting valves in the process. In that position, the cams can be rotated so the cam-locks fit, then the crank is put at TDC. Keep in mind that this is wasted work if valves are already bent or will be trying to get the crank to the safe position.
Yellow mark on cap covers are not useful for timing, not sure why they are there on your engine.
You are likely to collide some valves and pistons if you try to turn the crank without the cams also turning as they should. At this point I'd try to get a straight answer from the seller: was the engine running correctly before the belt was taken off, where is the old belt now, and did he set the crank and cams to the correct TDC position before taking it apart?
There is a way to rotate the crank such that no pistons are within striking distance of valves, I think it is 45 degrees BTDC, but the problem is rotating to that position without hitting valves in the process. In that position, the cams can be rotated so the cam-locks fit, then the crank is put at TDC. Keep in mind that this is wasted work if valves are already bent or will be trying to get the crank to the safe position.
I have all the new parts but not the old belt, he’s actually acting sketchy because he takes forever to reply now and is very short when I ask how to go about timing it. He claims it just needs the belt back on but knowing how long it’s been sitting I know something is off, because when I bought it the heads were already off.
We made a deal if I picked it up while he was at work I could pay half and take it home because he couldn’t meet me and didn’t wanna pay another week worth of parking spot where the car was at.
He was gonna junk it that day so I said ok I’ll pay $250 now and $150 when we meet the next day to get the title and extra pieces he’s had apparently “in his brothers car.”
We were suppose To meet yesterday but had no way on meeting me because he didn’t have a car. But yet he has a wife and kids? Wouldn’t you think his wife had one?
point I’m making is I believe he screwed me big time, stalling because either he lost the title or he really doesn’t have a ride. He’s from Colombia Maryland, picked up the car in Westminster MD, and I live in Nottingham, MD. Between all that it’s a hour drive so idk what to do or believe at this point knowing I lost money and will need to risk more money to save my butt.
Are we able to upload videos? I have videos of the engine and me taking about how to do it first.
#5
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
No bro, I bought it with the valve covers off lol , not heads my fault if I said heads. And my father, been with the company for a long time.
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