Update on repairs...
Now unfortunately about a mile from the shop, the low/no oil pressure light came on and so i parked the car. I have been having an oil leak, although rather small and the indy shop said it was the valve cover gasket (which i was already going to replace myself). Checked the oil level in the parking lot, and it was a bit low (from the leak) so my friend took me to the store to get a quart, added enough to make the level right, but the low oil pressure light still comes on when rpm's are over 2100.
My dad called in a favor from one of his friends, and we were able to borrow a car-hauling trailer. I'll tell anyone who doesn't know, these things are so freaking heavy when you're having to wench it up on a trailer up-hill with a come-a-long. We got it home, and left the trailer in the cul-de-sac the next day while everyone was at work. Came home and found a flat tire on the trailer with my car on it. Great something else to help the situation. Took off the wheel, pulled out the nail, plugged it, all better.
Took the car Saturday morning to the dealer, and dropped it off. They pulled the service history. And at this point i'd like to point out my car hasn't been serviced by the dealer since i've owned it. I've done three oil changes since I purchased it. Bought it at 49k, changed oil at 51k, changed at 56k, and just recently at 60k. All of the ones i've done were using Mobile 1, and I've been good about those. But the first record the dealer has on my car was at 21k. The car is a previous lease from Miami. So I figured i was doomed on the oil sludge warranty.
Today, the dealer called me, to let me know they got the records from the auction my car was sold at and that the records weren't my concern. If the oil pressure issue was sludge related the warranty would cover it. *happy*
So to recap, it isn't circulating oil up from the pan, which to me would either mean the pickup tube in the pan is clogged (probably with sludge) or the oil pump is dead. And as far as I've ever known, its pretty rare for an oil pump failure. But what is everyone else's idea on what could be wrong?
Oh yea and here's a picture of the trailer-queen.
<img src="http://slightlyqueer.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=884">
Lubrication Oil pressure and oil pressure switch, checking
Special tools and equipment
VAG 1342 Oil pressure tester
VAG 1527 B Voltage tester
VAG 1594 A Connector test set
Requirements:
-Oil level OK
-Engine oil temperature approx. 80 ° C.
Oil pressure warning lamp -K3- must come on when ignition is switched on.
In vehicles with auto-check system, lamp must light up to indicate "OK" status (interrogate symbol).
Checking oil pressure switch
Disconnect wire from oil pressure switch.
Remove oil pressure switch and screw into oil pressure tester VAG 1342.
Screw oil pressure switch -2- intoVAG 1342.
Connect brown wire -1- of tester to Ground (-).
Connect voltage tester VAG 1527 B to oil pressure switch and positive terminal of battery (+) using test leads from VAG 1594 A.
LED should not light up
If LED lights up:
Replace oil pressure switch.
Start engine.
Note:
Switching point of oil pressure switch can be reached when engine is cranked on starter motor, so watch tester and LED while starting engine.
Black oil pressure switch
LED should light up at 1.2 to 1.6 bar
If LED does not light up:
Replace oil pressure switch.
Checking oil pressure
Disconnect wire from oil pressure switch.
Remove oil pressure switch and screw in oil pressure tester VAG 1342.
Screw oil pressure switch -2- intoVAG 1342.
Start engine (engine oil temperature approx. 80 C).
Oil pressure at idling speed: 1.0 bar
Oil pressure at 3000 RPM: 3.5 to 4.5 bar
-If readings do not match specifications:
Pressure relief valve or oil pump faulty, replace oil pump
would be easy to smash the oil pan on something and bend the pickup then put a new pan on and sell it quick!





