Engine operating temperature
If it's warming up to half way then its opening OK, but sounds like its not closing. These are electric not the old thermal ones, so the are driven from a second temperature sensor in the water pipe next to the radiator.
On the 1.8T there's a metal coolant line that runs across the top of the inlet manifold and I found that had rusted and, the water pump failed soon after.
The fact yours actually gets cold not overheating sort of goes against a water pump problem.
One test I found if you want to try something at no cost. On the heater hose to/from the interior heater coil is a white circle just as it comes through the fire wall to the engine bay just near the clamp. If you loosen the clamp, slide the heater hose part way off, there is a bleed hole in the circle. Reclamp leaving the hole exposed then if you then start the cold engine, you should not get any water coming out the bleed hole as the thermostat should be closed until the engine warms up. As the engine warms up, the thermostat should open after a few minutes (depending on your climate), you should get a small fountain (say 3-4 inch) squirt of warm coolant out of the bleed hole you exposed. If you get the squirt even when the engine is cold, your thermostat is not closing, if you get a trickle of warm water but no pressure, then the pump is not pressurising enough. I'm not a mechanic so if someone else has a better no cost home test jump in.
On the 1.8T there's a metal coolant line that runs across the top of the inlet manifold and I found that had rusted and, the water pump failed soon after.
The fact yours actually gets cold not overheating sort of goes against a water pump problem.
One test I found if you want to try something at no cost. On the heater hose to/from the interior heater coil is a white circle just as it comes through the fire wall to the engine bay just near the clamp. If you loosen the clamp, slide the heater hose part way off, there is a bleed hole in the circle. Reclamp leaving the hole exposed then if you then start the cold engine, you should not get any water coming out the bleed hole as the thermostat should be closed until the engine warms up. As the engine warms up, the thermostat should open after a few minutes (depending on your climate), you should get a small fountain (say 3-4 inch) squirt of warm coolant out of the bleed hole you exposed. If you get the squirt even when the engine is cold, your thermostat is not closing, if you get a trickle of warm water but no pressure, then the pump is not pressurising enough. I'm not a mechanic so if someone else has a better no cost home test jump in.
Good luck,
On the 1.8T there's a metal coolant line that runs across the top of the inlet manifold and I found that had rusted and, the water pump failed soon after.
The fact yours actually gets cold not overheating sort of goes against a water pump problem.
One test I found if you want to try something at no cost. On the heater hose to/from the interior heater coil is a white circle just as it comes through the fire wall to the engine bay just near the clamp. If you loosen the clamp, slide the heater hose part way off, there is a bleed hole in the circle. Reclamp leaving the hole exposed then if you then start the cold engine, you should not get any water coming out the bleed hole as the thermostat should be closed until the engine warms up. As the engine warms up, the thermostat should open after a few minutes (depending on your climate), you should get a small fountain (say 3-4 inch) squirt of warm coolant out of the bleed hole you exposed. If you get the squirt even when the engine is cold, your thermostat is not closing, if you get a trickle of warm water but no pressure, then the pump is not pressurising enough. I'm not a mechanic so if someone else has a better no cost home test jump in.
Good luck,




