2013 Audi A4 filled oil too much
10-28-2019, 05:24 PM
#1
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2013 Audi A4 filled oil too much
Hello folks,
I’ve been a member and posted once or twice in the past few years. Please bear with me for this long post.
I brought in my 2013 A4 for service back in July for 130k service. While that went well I was told I need the valve gasket replaced and it will be a few days to get it done so I’d need to make an appointment for that.
I got the valve gasket replaced end of August and everything went fine, including the 1600$ cost.
End of September I got a low oil Indication on the dash and I thought it was odd and called the service and explained the background. I was told I have two options, top it off yourself or bring it to us to get it topped off. Since the dealership was an hour and half away I topped off with a quart.
Got another low oil indication a few days later, topped it off. Indication went away. And called the dealer to tell I’m getting this frequently and it does not sound right. They have me the same response, top it off and If it repeats schedule an appointment.
I believe I may have done this four times in total.
Last Wednesday morning was the last time I filled a quart and the car won’t start. after getting it towed, they finally got to my car yesterday and called me to request authorization for $1950. Starter, spark plugs and battery (that needs replacing soon). The service advisor also cautioned if we get it up and running chances are I may get a check engine light in a couple weeks and that may result in the catalytic converter and the O2 sensor(can’t remember the term) to be replaced. May cost 2600$. The car itself may be worth 5k if in running condition.
I lost it and told them I’m not going to authorize anything at this point. The dealership needs to pay for it. I want to know why I was told every time to top it off and I followed what they told. I want to speak to the service manager about this. He said he will have the manager call me. I’m yet to get a call back.
Did I wreck my car? Are there any options in having the dealer fix this or do I need to spend 2k now and another 2.6 for the catalytic converters in a few weeks?
i have had nothing major with this car for the past seven years and was actually going to keep this car as long as possible but it looks like I am out of options at this point.
Please help!!
I’ve been a member and posted once or twice in the past few years. Please bear with me for this long post.
I brought in my 2013 A4 for service back in July for 130k service. While that went well I was told I need the valve gasket replaced and it will be a few days to get it done so I’d need to make an appointment for that.
I got the valve gasket replaced end of August and everything went fine, including the 1600$ cost.
End of September I got a low oil Indication on the dash and I thought it was odd and called the service and explained the background. I was told I have two options, top it off yourself or bring it to us to get it topped off. Since the dealership was an hour and half away I topped off with a quart.
Got another low oil indication a few days later, topped it off. Indication went away. And called the dealer to tell I’m getting this frequently and it does not sound right. They have me the same response, top it off and If it repeats schedule an appointment.
I believe I may have done this four times in total.
Last Wednesday morning was the last time I filled a quart and the car won’t start. after getting it towed, they finally got to my car yesterday and called me to request authorization for $1950. Starter, spark plugs and battery (that needs replacing soon). The service advisor also cautioned if we get it up and running chances are I may get a check engine light in a couple weeks and that may result in the catalytic converter and the O2 sensor(can’t remember the term) to be replaced. May cost 2600$. The car itself may be worth 5k if in running condition.
I lost it and told them I’m not going to authorize anything at this point. The dealership needs to pay for it. I want to know why I was told every time to top it off and I followed what they told. I want to speak to the service manager about this. He said he will have the manager call me. I’m yet to get a call back.
Did I wreck my car? Are there any options in having the dealer fix this or do I need to spend 2k now and another 2.6 for the catalytic converters in a few weeks?
i have had nothing major with this car for the past seven years and was actually going to keep this car as long as possible but it looks like I am out of options at this point.
Please help!!
10-29-2019, 03:08 AM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
When the yellow alert for low oil came on, did you look at the oil level display in the car menu? Was it showing no oil? When you put in a quart (I would never put in that much at one time, half quart; I never want to see the oil level beyond the top of the oil level display, then I have no idea how much above full it is), did you check the display and see that it was now showing oil? Did you check that display at least once a day (assuming your drive that much) just to see how the oil level was moving? I mean, you're having oil level issues and you're not checking the primary interface to your oil level frequently? If it had oil and then didn't out of the blue, that's not the same as its burning it off rapidly. Oil consumption is one thing, but suddenly where'd all the oil go should be a flag.
But it doesn't sound like you have a tool to validate the engine claim, be it something like VCDS to get the reported oil level in a more specific mm value and how it compares to the low oil value. Or the dipstick, for a (close enough for this purpose) physical reality check on the engine's claim.
starter, spark plugs, and battery? WTF. Now, I can rationalize this as oil leak from your cylinder head cover ("valve gasket" is indeterminate, was it the cylinder head gasket or the cylinder head cover gasket they fixed; or was it actually something on one of the valves?) was leaking on the back right side and was corrupting the starter. And I'm sure the dealership is ready with that story should you start asking questions. How did they throw spark plugs in? Are they fouled?
But where's the explanation of why the car kept saying add more oil? You don't say anything like "they found I had too much oil". Overfilling will cause extra oil to end up passing through the exhaust system, which can mess up the cat over time. But this has been what, two months? Personally, I think you're being scammed by a scum service writer. There's no excuse for $2600 for a cat and "O2" sensors. The cat sucks somewhat, but it's direct and simple process to replace. But if you don't have any codes for the sensors or the cat (P0420), forget that mess.
Maybe things are as they stealership is saying, maybe they aren't. But you're lacking a lot of specifics and details for dropping multi-grand on a repair. And you should be expecting to pay unnecessary expense using a dealership for this anyway. And you really should have had VCDS so you could know what codes where there before involving the dealership. "Oh, I need a new cat, so I have a P0420 code?" "yeah, yeah, you have that code, lots of codes, going to need lots of parts (sucka)".
And there's still no explanation from them about wtf you thought you needed to keep adding oil?
Sounds like a suck situation, but you don't have the self resources to not let you be at the mercy of whatever the dealership wants to stick you with.
But it doesn't sound like you have a tool to validate the engine claim, be it something like VCDS to get the reported oil level in a more specific mm value and how it compares to the low oil value. Or the dipstick, for a (close enough for this purpose) physical reality check on the engine's claim.
starter, spark plugs, and battery? WTF. Now, I can rationalize this as oil leak from your cylinder head cover ("valve gasket" is indeterminate, was it the cylinder head gasket or the cylinder head cover gasket they fixed; or was it actually something on one of the valves?) was leaking on the back right side and was corrupting the starter. And I'm sure the dealership is ready with that story should you start asking questions. How did they throw spark plugs in? Are they fouled?
But where's the explanation of why the car kept saying add more oil? You don't say anything like "they found I had too much oil". Overfilling will cause extra oil to end up passing through the exhaust system, which can mess up the cat over time. But this has been what, two months? Personally, I think you're being scammed by a scum service writer. There's no excuse for $2600 for a cat and "O2" sensors. The cat sucks somewhat, but it's direct and simple process to replace. But if you don't have any codes for the sensors or the cat (P0420), forget that mess.
Maybe things are as they stealership is saying, maybe they aren't. But you're lacking a lot of specifics and details for dropping multi-grand on a repair. And you should be expecting to pay unnecessary expense using a dealership for this anyway. And you really should have had VCDS so you could know what codes where there before involving the dealership. "Oh, I need a new cat, so I have a P0420 code?" "yeah, yeah, you have that code, lots of codes, going to need lots of parts (sucka)".
And there's still no explanation from them about wtf you thought you needed to keep adding oil?
Sounds like a suck situation, but you don't have the self resources to not let you be at the mercy of whatever the dealership wants to stick you with.
10-29-2019, 03:40 AM
#3
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When the yellow alert for low oil came on, did you look at the oil level display in the car menu? Was it showing no oil? When you put in a quart (I would never put in that much at one time, half quart; I never want to see the oil level beyond the top of the oil level display, then I have no idea how much above full it is), did you check the display and see that it was now showing oil? Did you check that display at least once a day (assuming your drive that much) just to see how the oil level was moving? I mean, you're having oil level issues and you're not checking the primary interface to your oil level frequently? If it had oil and then didn't out of the blue, that's not the same as its burning it off rapidly. Oil consumption is one thing, but suddenly where'd all the oil go should be a flag.
But it doesn't sound like you have a tool to validate the engine claim, be it something like VCDS to get the reported oil level in a more specific mm value and how it compares to the low oil value. Or the dipstick, for a (close enough for this purpose) physical reality check on the engine's claim.
starter, spark plugs, and battery? WTF. Now, I can rationalize this as oil leak from your cylinder head cover ("valve gasket" is indeterminate, was it the cylinder head gasket or the cylinder head cover gasket they fixed; or was it actually something on one of the valves?) was leaking on the back right side and was corrupting the starter. And I'm sure the dealership is ready with that story should you start asking questions. How did they throw spark plugs in? Are they fouled?
But where's the explanation of why the car kept saying add more oil? You don't say anything like "they found I had too much oil". Overfilling will cause extra oil to end up passing through the exhaust system, which can mess up the cat over time. But this has been what, two months? Personally, I think you're being scammed by a scum service writer. There's no excuse for $2600 for a cat and "O2" sensors. The cat sucks somewhat, but it's direct and simple process to replace. But if you don't have any codes for the sensors or the cat (P0420), forget that mess.
Maybe things are as they stealership is saying, maybe they aren't. But you're lacking a lot of specifics and details for dropping multi-grand on a repair. And you should be expecting to pay unnecessary expense using a dealership for this anyway. And you really should have had VCDS so you could know what codes where there before involving the dealership. "Oh, I need a new cat, so I have a P0420 code?" "yeah, yeah, you have that code, lots of codes, going to need lots of parts (sucka)".
And there's still no explanation from them about wtf you thought you needed to keep adding oil?
Sounds like a suck situation, but you don't have the self resources to not let you be at the mercy of whatever the dealership wants to stick you with.
But it doesn't sound like you have a tool to validate the engine claim, be it something like VCDS to get the reported oil level in a more specific mm value and how it compares to the low oil value. Or the dipstick, for a (close enough for this purpose) physical reality check on the engine's claim.
starter, spark plugs, and battery? WTF. Now, I can rationalize this as oil leak from your cylinder head cover ("valve gasket" is indeterminate, was it the cylinder head gasket or the cylinder head cover gasket they fixed; or was it actually something on one of the valves?) was leaking on the back right side and was corrupting the starter. And I'm sure the dealership is ready with that story should you start asking questions. How did they throw spark plugs in? Are they fouled?
But where's the explanation of why the car kept saying add more oil? You don't say anything like "they found I had too much oil". Overfilling will cause extra oil to end up passing through the exhaust system, which can mess up the cat over time. But this has been what, two months? Personally, I think you're being scammed by a scum service writer. There's no excuse for $2600 for a cat and "O2" sensors. The cat sucks somewhat, but it's direct and simple process to replace. But if you don't have any codes for the sensors or the cat (P0420), forget that mess.
Maybe things are as they stealership is saying, maybe they aren't. But you're lacking a lot of specifics and details for dropping multi-grand on a repair. And you should be expecting to pay unnecessary expense using a dealership for this anyway. And you really should have had VCDS so you could know what codes where there before involving the dealership. "Oh, I need a new cat, so I have a P0420 code?" "yeah, yeah, you have that code, lots of codes, going to need lots of parts (sucka)".
And there's still no explanation from them about wtf you thought you needed to keep adding oil?
Sounds like a suck situation, but you don't have the self resources to not let you be at the mercy of whatever the dealership wants to stick you with.
I checked the oil level the first time on the dash and it showed the level at a little over halfway point. After filling in a quart, the low oil indication went away for 2 days, then it came back on. I work from home and don't drive several miles on a daily basis, 10 - 15 at the most. I honestly did not realize where the oil was going and did not check it daily.
I do not have the VCDS tool, sorry. The gasket replacement was listed as 'valve cover gasket' on the service order. As far as the spark plugs and the starter, they said its because of this oil situation both of them went bad and they noticed the battery was needing replacement soon, so might as well get it replaced when they get the car up and running.
Looks like i need a VCDS tool, where do i get started if you do not mind me asking? I also have a 2017 Q7, will that require a different kind of VCDS tool?
Thanks.
10-29-2019, 04:00 AM
#4
So it was halfway down and you added a quart. Then you added another quart without checking the level? And then did this 2 more times and each time the dealer told you to do this without ever telling you to check the level? Did you speak to the same service person each time? Did it ever occur to you to check the level again? I doubt the dealer will help you out. Did you bother to check the manual to understand how to properly check the oil level and how to refill? I'm sorry but this is basic car maintenance that your owner's manual covers.
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CFLQTRO (10-29-2019)
10-29-2019, 04:21 AM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
If any oil level was showing on the dash display and the yellow oil light was on, something was wrong. I've never had the please fill message or yellow oil can light come on unless the bar on the display has been empty for at least a few drives.
'valve cover' gasket, ok, so the 'cylinder head cover' gasket. Yeah, VW really dicked us by integrating the cam bearings into the head cover making it a more convoluted process than it should ever have been to fix that gasket. I want to do mine but keep putting it off because of the process.
spark plugs - I could see this, they can become fouled. Did they try simply replacing the spark plugs and see if it would start up?
starter - um, yeah, they'd have to really prove this to me. When you were trying to start it and it wouldn't, would the engine turn over? Or was there no physical motion at all, like a fully dead battery? What exactly are they saying is wrong with it and how did that happen? Where exactly was the oil leak when they did the cylinder head cover? If it was on the back right and leaking onto the starter, did they not point that out at that time?
battery - Mine was still strong at 10 years old. I replaced it when my alternator pulley went out, but it's still on a shelf charged from time to time with a battery conditioner, ready to go if I ever need it. But if you do a lot of short trips, you're going to be more brutal on your battery than I am (my shortest possible trip is 5.5 miles out and 5.5 back). If you were going to anyway, might as well.
cat - with such a short window of this event, I'd leave it and the sensors be and see if any codes come up down the road. Unless there's already codes popping up. There's nothing wrong with leaving it as is (assuming you don't have current codes for the sensors or cat, and even if you do, it should still drive) and it won't change the down the road cost doing it now vs later at this point. Whatever's done is done.
The worst part about doing this at the dealership is how much you're getting screwed on the parts costs (if they are anything like the dealerships here in ATL). What are they quoting as the cost for the cat piece itself? Or for the starter part itself? Reman OE cat for $830 after core return (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...8k0254252kxkt/). Various starter options (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...rical/Starter/), $466 new OE, $335 reman OE, or $282 new OEM (Bosch, the people that make the OE one). It really comes down to the relationship you have with the dealership. They don't seem to be your friend all that much; I don't see any need to tip them free money anymore than necessary.
Yeah, if you want to own an Audi, there's no reason not to have VCDS so you do some level of assessing your issues before seeing what the dealership makes up. Same tool for the Q7, I assume they support the 2017 by this time. I use mine with my brother in law's 2000 A6 and 2014 Q7, my cousin's A6 and A8 (forget the years), my own 2009 A4. You can buy either a 3-VIN license or a 10-VIN license; I have the 10 because I know we have a number of Audi's in the fam. You can always upgrade the license later should the need arise. https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/ They also have their own forum for registered owners with a lot of troubleshooting assistance. I do my own oil changes, so I can use this to reset that 10k mile alarm. You do want a Windows based laptop to use it with. It does only run on Windows.
There are other options too, but I consider them all compromised in one manner or another. But if all you have is Android, OBDeleven is common. https://obdeleven.com/en/products-page Get the device and the pro license. If all you have is iOS devices, then yeah, get a Win laptop and VCDS.
'valve cover' gasket, ok, so the 'cylinder head cover' gasket. Yeah, VW really dicked us by integrating the cam bearings into the head cover making it a more convoluted process than it should ever have been to fix that gasket. I want to do mine but keep putting it off because of the process.
spark plugs - I could see this, they can become fouled. Did they try simply replacing the spark plugs and see if it would start up?
starter - um, yeah, they'd have to really prove this to me. When you were trying to start it and it wouldn't, would the engine turn over? Or was there no physical motion at all, like a fully dead battery? What exactly are they saying is wrong with it and how did that happen? Where exactly was the oil leak when they did the cylinder head cover? If it was on the back right and leaking onto the starter, did they not point that out at that time?
battery - Mine was still strong at 10 years old. I replaced it when my alternator pulley went out, but it's still on a shelf charged from time to time with a battery conditioner, ready to go if I ever need it. But if you do a lot of short trips, you're going to be more brutal on your battery than I am (my shortest possible trip is 5.5 miles out and 5.5 back). If you were going to anyway, might as well.
cat - with such a short window of this event, I'd leave it and the sensors be and see if any codes come up down the road. Unless there's already codes popping up. There's nothing wrong with leaving it as is (assuming you don't have current codes for the sensors or cat, and even if you do, it should still drive) and it won't change the down the road cost doing it now vs later at this point. Whatever's done is done.
The worst part about doing this at the dealership is how much you're getting screwed on the parts costs (if they are anything like the dealerships here in ATL). What are they quoting as the cost for the cat piece itself? Or for the starter part itself? Reman OE cat for $830 after core return (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...8k0254252kxkt/). Various starter options (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...rical/Starter/), $466 new OE, $335 reman OE, or $282 new OEM (Bosch, the people that make the OE one). It really comes down to the relationship you have with the dealership. They don't seem to be your friend all that much; I don't see any need to tip them free money anymore than necessary.
Yeah, if you want to own an Audi, there's no reason not to have VCDS so you do some level of assessing your issues before seeing what the dealership makes up. Same tool for the Q7, I assume they support the 2017 by this time. I use mine with my brother in law's 2000 A6 and 2014 Q7, my cousin's A6 and A8 (forget the years), my own 2009 A4. You can buy either a 3-VIN license or a 10-VIN license; I have the 10 because I know we have a number of Audi's in the fam. You can always upgrade the license later should the need arise. https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/ They also have their own forum for registered owners with a lot of troubleshooting assistance. I do my own oil changes, so I can use this to reset that 10k mile alarm. You do want a Windows based laptop to use it with. It does only run on Windows.
There are other options too, but I consider them all compromised in one manner or another. But if all you have is Android, OBDeleven is common. https://obdeleven.com/en/products-page Get the device and the pro license. If all you have is iOS devices, then yeah, get a Win laptop and VCDS.
10-29-2019, 04:32 AM
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So it was halfway down and you added a quart. Then you added another quart without checking the level? And then did this 2 more times and each time the dealer told you to do this without ever telling you to check the level? Did you speak to the same service person each time? Did it ever occur to you to check the level again? I doubt the dealer will help you out. Did you bother to check the manual to understand how to properly check the oil level and how to refill? I'm sorry but this is basic car maintenance that your owner's manual covers.
10-29-2019, 04:40 AM
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If any oil level was showing on the dash display and the yellow oil light was on, something was wrong. I've never had the please fill message or yellow oil can light come on unless the bar on the display has been empty for at least a few drives.
'valve cover' gasket, ok, so the 'cylinder head cover' gasket. Yeah, VW really dicked us by integrating the cam bearings into the head cover making it a more convoluted process than it should ever have been to fix that gasket. I want to do mine but keep putting it off because of the process.
spark plugs - I could see this, they can become fouled. Did they try simply replacing the spark plugs and see if it would start up?
starter - um, yeah, they'd have to really prove this to me. When you were trying to start it and it wouldn't, would the engine turn over? Or was there no physical motion at all, like a fully dead battery? What exactly are they saying is wrong with it and how did that happen? Where exactly was the oil leak when they did the cylinder head cover? If it was on the back right and leaking onto the starter, did they not point that out at that time?
battery - Mine was still strong at 10 years old. I replaced it when my alternator pulley went out, but it's still on a shelf charged from time to time with a battery conditioner, ready to go if I ever need it. But if you do a lot of short trips, you're going to be more brutal on your battery than I am (my shortest possible trip is 5.5 miles out and 5.5 back). If you were going to anyway, might as well.
cat - with such a short window of this event, I'd leave it and the sensors be and see if any codes come up down the road. Unless there's already codes popping up. There's nothing wrong with leaving it as is (assuming you don't have current codes for the sensors or cat, and even if you do, it should still drive) and it won't change the down the road cost doing it now vs later at this point. Whatever's done is done.
The worst part about doing this at the dealership is how much you're getting screwed on the parts costs (if they are anything like the dealerships here in ATL). What are they quoting as the cost for the cat piece itself? Or for the starter part itself? Reman OE cat for $830 after core return (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...8k0254252kxkt/). Various starter options (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...rical/Starter/), $466 new OE, $335 reman OE, or $282 new OEM (Bosch, the people that make the OE one). It really comes down to the relationship you have with the dealership. They don't seem to be your friend all that much; I don't see any need to tip them free money anymore than necessary.
Yeah, if you want to own an Audi, there's no reason not to have VCDS so you do some level of assessing your issues before seeing what the dealership makes up. Same tool for the Q7, I assume they support the 2017 by this time. I use mine with my brother in law's 2000 A6 and 2014 Q7, my cousin's A6 and A8 (forget the years), my own 2009 A4. You can buy either a 3-VIN license or a 10-VIN license; I have the 10 because I know we have a number of Audi's in the fam. You can always upgrade the license later should the need arise. https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/ They also have their own forum for registered owners with a lot of troubleshooting assistance. I do my own oil changes, so I can use this to reset that 10k mile alarm. You do want a Windows based laptop to use it with. It does only run on Windows.
There are other options too, but I consider them all compromised in one manner or another. But if all you have is Android, OBDeleven is common. https://obdeleven.com/en/products-page Get the device and the pro license. If all you have is iOS devices, then yeah, get a Win laptop and VCDS.
'valve cover' gasket, ok, so the 'cylinder head cover' gasket. Yeah, VW really dicked us by integrating the cam bearings into the head cover making it a more convoluted process than it should ever have been to fix that gasket. I want to do mine but keep putting it off because of the process.
spark plugs - I could see this, they can become fouled. Did they try simply replacing the spark plugs and see if it would start up?
starter - um, yeah, they'd have to really prove this to me. When you were trying to start it and it wouldn't, would the engine turn over? Or was there no physical motion at all, like a fully dead battery? What exactly are they saying is wrong with it and how did that happen? Where exactly was the oil leak when they did the cylinder head cover? If it was on the back right and leaking onto the starter, did they not point that out at that time?
battery - Mine was still strong at 10 years old. I replaced it when my alternator pulley went out, but it's still on a shelf charged from time to time with a battery conditioner, ready to go if I ever need it. But if you do a lot of short trips, you're going to be more brutal on your battery than I am (my shortest possible trip is 5.5 miles out and 5.5 back). If you were going to anyway, might as well.
cat - with such a short window of this event, I'd leave it and the sensors be and see if any codes come up down the road. Unless there's already codes popping up. There's nothing wrong with leaving it as is (assuming you don't have current codes for the sensors or cat, and even if you do, it should still drive) and it won't change the down the road cost doing it now vs later at this point. Whatever's done is done.
The worst part about doing this at the dealership is how much you're getting screwed on the parts costs (if they are anything like the dealerships here in ATL). What are they quoting as the cost for the cat piece itself? Or for the starter part itself? Reman OE cat for $830 after core return (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...8k0254252kxkt/). Various starter options (https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...rical/Starter/), $466 new OE, $335 reman OE, or $282 new OEM (Bosch, the people that make the OE one). It really comes down to the relationship you have with the dealership. They don't seem to be your friend all that much; I don't see any need to tip them free money anymore than necessary.
Yeah, if you want to own an Audi, there's no reason not to have VCDS so you do some level of assessing your issues before seeing what the dealership makes up. Same tool for the Q7, I assume they support the 2017 by this time. I use mine with my brother in law's 2000 A6 and 2014 Q7, my cousin's A6 and A8 (forget the years), my own 2009 A4. You can buy either a 3-VIN license or a 10-VIN license; I have the 10 because I know we have a number of Audi's in the fam. You can always upgrade the license later should the need arise. https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/vchv2_ent/ They also have their own forum for registered owners with a lot of troubleshooting assistance. I do my own oil changes, so I can use this to reset that 10k mile alarm. You do want a Windows based laptop to use it with. It does only run on Windows.
There are other options too, but I consider them all compromised in one manner or another. But if all you have is Android, OBDeleven is common. https://obdeleven.com/en/products-page Get the device and the pro license. If all you have is iOS devices, then yeah, get a Win laptop and VCDS.
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10-29-2019, 05:11 AM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
"would not start", ok, but was the engine turning over; ie, was the starter spinning the engine? If the starter was spinning the engine, why are they trying to replace it? If the engine would not even turn over, like a dead battery, then maybe the starter had gone out.
White smoke from where? The tail pipe? That would seem to make sense if there was excessive oil in the exhaust. I don't do engine work; maybe the cylinders were simply flooded from all the excess oil. It just seems like I'd expect more from the dealership if they are going to try and charge four digits. Which they hate giving explanations, but if they want my money, that kind of money, I'm talking to the tech himself, not some service writer.
Welcome to a crash course on being very specific when relaying observations. :-)
White smoke from where? The tail pipe? That would seem to make sense if there was excessive oil in the exhaust. I don't do engine work; maybe the cylinders were simply flooded from all the excess oil. It just seems like I'd expect more from the dealership if they are going to try and charge four digits. Which they hate giving explanations, but if they want my money, that kind of money, I'm talking to the tech himself, not some service writer.
Welcome to a crash course on being very specific when relaying observations. :-)
10-29-2019, 05:16 AM
#9
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"would not start", ok, but was the engine turning over; ie, was the starter spinning the engine? If the starter was spinning the engine, why are they trying to replace it? If the engine would not even turn over, like a dead battery, then maybe the starter had gone out.
White smoke from where? The tail pipe? That would seem to make sense if there was excessive oil in the exhaust. I don't do engine work; maybe the cylinders were simply flooded from all the excess oil. It just seems like I'd expect more from the dealership if they are going to try and charge four digits. Which they hate giving explanations, but if they want my money, that kind of money, I'm talking to the tech himself, not some service writer.
Welcome to a crash course on being very specific when relaying observations. :-)
White smoke from where? The tail pipe? That would seem to make sense if there was excessive oil in the exhaust. I don't do engine work; maybe the cylinders were simply flooded from all the excess oil. It just seems like I'd expect more from the dealership if they are going to try and charge four digits. Which they hate giving explanations, but if they want my money, that kind of money, I'm talking to the tech himself, not some service writer.
Welcome to a crash course on being very specific when relaying observations. :-)
10-29-2019, 05:54 AM
#10
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"would not start", ok, but was the engine turning over; ie, was the starter spinning the engine? If the starter was spinning the engine, why are they trying to replace it? If the engine would not even turn over, like a dead battery, then maybe the starter had gone out.
White smoke from where? The tail pipe? That would seem to make sense if there was excessive oil in the exhaust. I don't do engine work; maybe the cylinders were simply flooded from all the excess oil. It just seems like I'd expect more from the dealership if they are going to try and charge four digits. Which they hate giving explanations, but if they want my money, that kind of money, I'm talking to the tech himself, not some service writer.
Welcome to a crash course on being very specific when relaying observations. :-)
White smoke from where? The tail pipe? That would seem to make sense if there was excessive oil in the exhaust. I don't do engine work; maybe the cylinders were simply flooded from all the excess oil. It just seems like I'd expect more from the dealership if they are going to try and charge four digits. Which they hate giving explanations, but if they want my money, that kind of money, I'm talking to the tech himself, not some service writer.
Welcome to a crash course on being very specific when relaying observations. :-)