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ccm handbrake module fuse issue confused

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Old 03-03-2024, 10:29 PM
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Default ccm handbrake module fuse issue confused

hey guys looking for some assistance

4 weeks ago I was needing to change my rear disks and pads , I used carly app to put car into brake service mode , all was good , sadly my battery died

also there was bolts to the carrier seized so I had to put it all back together and head to my father in laws house as he had better tools ,

jump started car and was all good

got to house and got the carrier off then found out my calipers needed replaced they were shot , 3 days past and the battery died again as wasn't on a charger

calipers arrived and were installed but couldn't get the brakes out of brake service mode , kept saying can't read brakes ,done a check threw ross teck and came up with the parking brake control module so had that replaced and the brakes worked , now my key is stuck in the ignition and won't release and on the dash it states , put car into P car may roll away if not in park , FYI I have a manual gearbox on a 2.0 tdi

checked all fuses all look fine and I mean every fuse in the car

don't no how to check relays ,

I am howsoever getting 2 codes come up

access /start authorisation dtc 01330
central control module for central convenience J393

and

transmission control unit
dtc 01315

at a loss can't use key to lock car so using emergency key but boot and passanger rear door will not open

car starts fine no lights on dash

when I ran a code check it flashed up on dash brake under diagnostic and esp fault
Old 03-03-2024, 10:40 PM
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Are you using VCDS or something else? If VCDS, just post the complete autoscan log. If not VCDS, that sucks.

So is the battery good now or not? If the voltage is below 12.0v, take the battery out of the car and put it on a real charger. If you can get into the car, you can open the trunk. If fold down rear seats, emergency release is on the lid itself. If not, the release is under the rear seat bench. Should be in the manual.

01330, but is that an old code or a current code. There's no relays in the power path from the battery to the J393, just fuses, all of which are in the right rear. Most significant one should be fuse 11 in column "B" (black) in the right rear. 20A to the J393. The 30A in fuse 8 and fuse 10 to the J393 are for the tail lamps.

What model year is this car? VIN 10th character.
Old 03-03-2024, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SMac770
Are you using VCDS or something else? If VCDS, just post the complete autoscan log. If not VCDS, that sucks.

So is the battery good now or not? If the voltage is below 12.0v, take the battery out of the car and put it on a real charger. If you can get into the car, you can open the trunk. If fold down rear seats, emergency release is on the lid itself. If not, the release is under the rear seat bench. Should be in the manual.

01330, but is that an old code or a current code. There's no relays in the power path from the battery to the J393, just fuses, all of which are in the right rear. Most significant one should be fuse 11 in column "B" (black) in the right rear. 20A to the J393. The 30A in fuse 8 and fuse 10 to the J393 are for the tail lamps.

What model year is this car? VIN 10th character.

hey , my father in law has the vcds i only have carly , i can get in car with the emergency key and with the smart key section stuck in the ignition i can start the car and its drives with no problem

I checked battery at weekend at when nothing wad on it was at 11.8v then when started and running was at 13.8v to 14.1v

codes have been removed several times and these are the codes that are constant

year if car is a 2009

thanks for reply i have checked fuses in boot and in both driver and passanger door

I though it was mayby the ccm it's self so I got a replacemwnt with the same part number and the key came out ignition but i got no powrr to anything when i put key back in it wasnt until i put old ccm back in the key was accepted and started but then wouldn't remove
Old 03-03-2024, 11:10 PM
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You can't swap the J393 without then doing the immobilizer adaptation (ie, at a dealership or shop). The J393 is the immobilizer master, so when you swap it, now your keys are unknown.

But if you can drive the car with the old unit, then I'd drive it to a dealership and take the replacement with you. Have them do the swap and do the immobilizer adaptation for one hour labor (take all your keys, all keys must be present at the adaptation) and hopefully the replacement is fully functional. That's what I did when my J393 developed a problem. Vehicle was fine, but keyless entry/start was broken. $99 used unit and one hour labor later, all good again.
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