chairlift

I have the same tires in the same size, they are amazing on snow and ice, we are supposed to get 8-12" in the next couple of days and I'm getting really geared up to go sledding in the quattro

mart242

The problem with the blizzaks is that they don't last. Their fancy compound that sticks well on snow is only in the first 50% of the thread and after that it's almost like a hockey puck..
(well, that's what I've heard)

Ziggy277

I started using 'new generation' ie siliconized rubber, winter tires in the late 1990s when they were pretty new. So I can share some experience with you.

1. I bought the WS-60s because that is what Tire Rack offered as a deal. I have no idea how to compare tire reviews. Having said that, they are really good tires. We had freezing rain here a couple of weeks ago and our front street was a skating rink. I could slalom up and down the street (don't try this at home!!) So for me there is nothing wrong with the Blizzaks.

2. Existing rims? I wouldn't do it. I used to mount and remount tires every season, and the beads would eventually break before they truly wore out, because the compound gets brittle. Ideally, in cold parts you want a steel rim, because, at least in my experience, alloy rims can leak in cold weather. (I don't know if this is true about painted alloy rims.)

3.- 4. I bought this set at Tire Rack. Great service, really good price. They arrived at my back door mounted and balanced. I change them myself because I like to, (and I'm really cheap too -- just ask my kids.)

5. I store them in the garage rafters. I have three sets of wheels right now, and so I built an elaborate block and tackle system to get them up and down from there. I wouldn't put them in the house because they stink (especially the winter tires).

6. When to change? Tough question. The soft compound wears really fast, so if you do it too early, you wear out the tire too fast. But the first snowfall is always the worst one for poor traction and idiot drivers, so I like to be prepared. Around here that means early October on, late April off.

Hope this helps.

plA4keeps

Thanks for the very detailed reply. Much appreciated.

-- plA4keeps

mart242

We had ~1cm of snow yesterday and I adjusted tire pressure properly (they were over inflated). Wow. I really like those tires so far. They are great when wet but only average when dry

a4Happy

What difference does 17" vs. 18" make other than available tire size, and how much snow gets packed into the wheel? Shoot, go nuts, run 20"!!!

mart242

17" makes a big difference with the potholes and uneven icy surface / ruts on the road. With 18", I'd be afraid of damaging a rim.

a4Happy

One other word of advice, purchase a tire and wheel combo, don't get just the tires and mount them every season on your stock OEM wheels. Here's a cost difference break down.

Tire/wheel combo
$1200 - Tire and wheels:
-$250 - Sell wheels on eBay after 4 seasons
$950 - Total wheel/tire

Tires only
$500 - Tires
+$80 - One time mounting (with road force balancing, see note below.)
x8 - Mounting twice each season, four seasons of use in all
$1040 - 4 season cost
+$1200 - Tire shop mess up (see note below)
$2240 - Total tire cost

(Tire shop mess up note: This is the cost to buy new tires/wheels like we told you to do the first time because the shop that mounted and balanced your tires screwed up and bent your rim, scuffed the rim, damaged a tire, or simply is incapable of balancing a tire correctly so now your summer and winter tires all vibrate down the road every season. Does not include the cost of emotional trauma...)

a4Happy

Good point. I guess I just know where the potholes are on my commute so I'm able avoid them. After all, potholes are an all year thing, the snow just hides them a little better.