The B9 MT6 thread
06-04-2019, 02:48 PM
#61
There's currently a unique 2018 A4 6MT up for grabs.
A former AoA executive car, it's Scuba Blue with the Sport Plus Package and factory-installed Audi Sport RS Carbon Fiber inlays, which were unavailable at any price unless you were one of the 40 Ultra Sport customers.
https://www.audicoralsprings.com/use...294f08f95b.htm
A former AoA executive car, it's Scuba Blue with the Sport Plus Package and factory-installed Audi Sport RS Carbon Fiber inlays, which were unavailable at any price unless you were one of the 40 Ultra Sport customers.
https://www.audicoralsprings.com/use...294f08f95b.htm
06-05-2019, 09:20 AM
#62
AudiWorld Member
Guys some exciting news, we ECU Tuned my 6-speed with 034 Motorsport Dynamic+ Stage 2 Software. The guys up there are tweaking/revising as we gather data to make sure the map works very well with the 6-speed and DSG models. I’ll keep updating my thread too as time goes by, but here’s a preview!
12-27-2020, 05:41 PM
#66
Good luck!
12-28-2020, 05:38 AM
#67
Same here. When I heard the 2018 was the last MT - I started planning to get a ‘17 or ‘18 gently used and to ride it until it died (hopefully after 10 years!). I will say that if I were doing it again right now, I’d be really torn between a Golf R and the A4. I would recommend driving both - because the shifting on the Golf we have (2017 - largely car for kids) is really different (and better) than in the A4. But if I had driven both I think it is possible I’d have ended up with the R. I’m happy with the A4 - and I think it will age well (with me!) but it’s probably the least fun manual I’ve owned (and I’ve only owned manuals) in terms of shifting experience. (Having said that - the rest of the driving experience is very very good.)
Good luck!
Good luck!
An so now there is no way that I am ever going to sell it. It's my "keep forever" car that is going to always be maintained by the dealer no matter how old it gets. It's my 2nd car, so it should last a long time. From what I have read, during the entire 2018 model year Audi only sold ~1,750 A4's in the US with a manual transmission, so it is definitely a rare bird. My only advice for anyone wanting to buy a used one would be to make sure you are comfortable with the clutch pedal height, and also, don't be too picky about the color and trim because there are not very many B9 A4's out there with a manual transmission to choose from.
12-28-2020, 06:14 AM
#68
AudiWorld Member
There were only a couple of months when they were taking orders for a 2017 A4 with MT and for 2018 they changed the red color to Matador red (I think), so with the 2017 red, MT, and the driver assist package I wouldn't be shocked if my car is unique. And yes the assisted steering and even the adaptive cruise control do make sense on a MT car.
12-28-2020, 07:26 AM
#69
AudiWorld Member
Initially I did not enjoy driving my 2018 B9 A4 manual because the "bite point" and overall clutch pedal height was too high. Even though I'm 6' 2" tall, I also don't think the pedal is setup well for shorter people either. But I fixed the problem with a custom solution that cost me a total of $600 and my time, and now the overall height of the pedal is lower, and the "bite point" is lower. It didn't take much of a change to make a world of difference. So after fixing the pedal height I would have to say that I very much enjoy driving it. If I had not been able to fix the pedal height, then I probably would have sold the car.
An so now there is no way that I am ever going to sell it. It's my "keep forever" car that is going to always be maintained by the dealer no matter how old it gets. It's my 2nd car, so it should last a long time. From what I have read, during the entire 2018 model year Audi only sold ~1,750 A4's in the US with a manual transmission, so it is definitely a rare bird. My only advice for anyone wanting to buy a used one would be to make sure you are comfortable with the clutch pedal height, and also, don't be too picky about the color and trim because there are not very many B9 A4's out there with a manual transmission to choose from.
An so now there is no way that I am ever going to sell it. It's my "keep forever" car that is going to always be maintained by the dealer no matter how old it gets. It's my 2nd car, so it should last a long time. From what I have read, during the entire 2018 model year Audi only sold ~1,750 A4's in the US with a manual transmission, so it is definitely a rare bird. My only advice for anyone wanting to buy a used one would be to make sure you are comfortable with the clutch pedal height, and also, don't be too picky about the color and trim because there are not very many B9 A4's out there with a manual transmission to choose from.
12-28-2020, 06:50 PM
#70
Essentially I cut the push rod on the clutch master cylinder in half and reconnected the two ends with a coupling nut that could be adjusted for length. Going from memory, the steps were as follows:
1) Buy a new clutch master cylinder (I didn't want to render the car inoperable for a long time).
2) Buy special Audi tools needed to remove the clutch master cylinder.
3) Buy a metric (M6?) threading die with handle. DO NOT BUY A CHEAP DIE, WHICH WILL NOT CUT NEW THREADS ON THE ROD ENDS. YOU HAVE TO PAY UP FOR A GOOD ONE OR IT WON'T WORK.
4) Buy a coupling nut (M6?) and 2 ultra thin nuts with the same thread size. The nuts are for locking the coupler into a position along the rod. For my install I think I only needed 1 thin nut on the end of the coupling nut nearest to the firewall, and the other end of the coupling nut was jammed against the end of the threads that I had cut on the rod farthest away from the firewall.
5) Prior to cutting the rod in half, carefully measure the overall length of the rod so that its baseline length is known.
6) Do some math based on the geometry of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder to determine how much shorter the rod would have to be so that the height of the pedal is lower by about 1/2". This calculation will dictate what the new length of the rod needs to be.
7) Cut the rod in half.
8) Shorten one new end by ~1/8", including the width of the saw kerf that was removed when the rod was cut in half. (Going from memory on this.)
9) Cut threads on both new ends of the rod (I think it requires an M6 thread).
10) Reattach the two ends using a coupler (M6?), along with a thin jamb nut on each side (as described earlier I only used 1 jamb nut).
11) Adjust the overall length of the rod to a new length dictated by the math done in step 6 above, and lock coupling nut in place with the jamb nut(s).
12) Pay an aftermarket repair shop that specializes in Audi to remove the original clutch master cylinder and install the new modified master cylinder. A lift is needed to do this, so its better to pay the pros to do it. The dealer will probably refuse to install a part that has been modified.
13) Fine tune adjustment of the coupling nut and the jamb nut until the desired pedal height has been achieved. Going from memory, I think the maximum reduction in pedal height that is achievable is about 3/4". Any more change than that will result in too little travel when the clutch is fully pushed to the firewall, such that the actual clutch mechanism cannot freely engage and disengage. While fine tuning the length, pliers must be used on the end of the rod going through the firewall to rotate it in the coupling nut (which is now fixed and cannot rotate). In doing so, the rod will move in or out of the coupling nut to achieve a new length for the push rod. When finished, then lock in place with the jamb nut.
And that is all that I can recall from memory. I did not include any of the steps required to disassemble the lower dash to gain access to the clutch master cylinder. As I recall, I delivered to car to the repair place with the lower dash already disassembled, and then I reassembled it after I got the car back. That saved me a few $'s.
The coupling nut that I used is 1" long. There isn't very much rod length to work with, so you have to pay attention to the stack up length of the coupling nut and the jamb nut(s).
1) Buy a new clutch master cylinder (I didn't want to render the car inoperable for a long time).
2) Buy special Audi tools needed to remove the clutch master cylinder.
3) Buy a metric (M6?) threading die with handle. DO NOT BUY A CHEAP DIE, WHICH WILL NOT CUT NEW THREADS ON THE ROD ENDS. YOU HAVE TO PAY UP FOR A GOOD ONE OR IT WON'T WORK.
4) Buy a coupling nut (M6?) and 2 ultra thin nuts with the same thread size. The nuts are for locking the coupler into a position along the rod. For my install I think I only needed 1 thin nut on the end of the coupling nut nearest to the firewall, and the other end of the coupling nut was jammed against the end of the threads that I had cut on the rod farthest away from the firewall.
5) Prior to cutting the rod in half, carefully measure the overall length of the rod so that its baseline length is known.
6) Do some math based on the geometry of the clutch pedal and the master cylinder to determine how much shorter the rod would have to be so that the height of the pedal is lower by about 1/2". This calculation will dictate what the new length of the rod needs to be.
7) Cut the rod in half.
8) Shorten one new end by ~1/8", including the width of the saw kerf that was removed when the rod was cut in half. (Going from memory on this.)
9) Cut threads on both new ends of the rod (I think it requires an M6 thread).
10) Reattach the two ends using a coupler (M6?), along with a thin jamb nut on each side (as described earlier I only used 1 jamb nut).
11) Adjust the overall length of the rod to a new length dictated by the math done in step 6 above, and lock coupling nut in place with the jamb nut(s).
12) Pay an aftermarket repair shop that specializes in Audi to remove the original clutch master cylinder and install the new modified master cylinder. A lift is needed to do this, so its better to pay the pros to do it. The dealer will probably refuse to install a part that has been modified.
13) Fine tune adjustment of the coupling nut and the jamb nut until the desired pedal height has been achieved. Going from memory, I think the maximum reduction in pedal height that is achievable is about 3/4". Any more change than that will result in too little travel when the clutch is fully pushed to the firewall, such that the actual clutch mechanism cannot freely engage and disengage. While fine tuning the length, pliers must be used on the end of the rod going through the firewall to rotate it in the coupling nut (which is now fixed and cannot rotate). In doing so, the rod will move in or out of the coupling nut to achieve a new length for the push rod. When finished, then lock in place with the jamb nut.
And that is all that I can recall from memory. I did not include any of the steps required to disassemble the lower dash to gain access to the clutch master cylinder. As I recall, I delivered to car to the repair place with the lower dash already disassembled, and then I reassembled it after I got the car back. That saved me a few $'s.
The coupling nut that I used is 1" long. There isn't very much rod length to work with, so you have to pay attention to the stack up length of the coupling nut and the jamb nut(s).
Last edited by bigk200; 12-29-2020 at 01:45 PM.