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Upgrading SUB

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Old 10-17-2017, 07:59 AM
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@Nostromo Thanks for the manuals. @rsilvers129, agree it is bit of work but i feel it would be cleanest and inexpensive solution . Also, trunk space be saved. Although, having said that, it is an option I would be exploring. Looking for others who may have done it.
Old 10-17-2017, 12:33 PM
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Guys I already started looking into it...

only problem we have is that the OEM sub is DVC 8ohm which means it has two voice coils at 8ohm each... there is no aftermarket sub for that, unless we know the stock amp could handle the 4ohm load which it should...
Old 10-17-2017, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by James Cole
Guys I already started looking into it...

only problem we have is that the OEM sub is DVC 8ohm which means it has two voice coils at 8ohm each... there is no aftermarket sub for that, unless we know the stock amp could handle the 4ohm load which it should...
That is no problem. Just get a sub with dual 4 ohm coils and wire them in series instead of parallel.
Old 10-17-2017, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rsilvers129
That is no problem. Just get a sub with dual 4 ohm coils and wire them in series instead of parallel.
wait... how exactly? You have two channels in the oem amp that are expecting to see an 8ohm load each...
Old 10-17-2017, 04:14 PM
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I assumed it had a single subwoofer output like my Q7.

First, I would test the impedance if the existing driver. Use a multimeter on resistance setting on the speaker terminals, and multiply the readout by 1.25. So if it is really 8 ohms, the multimeter should read about 6.4. If it reads 3.2, then it is 4 ohms, which is what my Q7 was.

If it has two subwoofer outputs, then use two woofers. One on the deck, and if no room for a second one, then another in an enclosure inside the trunk. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BT1028DVC-10-Inch-8-Ohm-Bass/dp/B001KM4Y54/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1508285106&sr=8-9&keywords=10+inch+subwoofer+8+ohm+dual https://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BT1028DVC-10-Inch-8-Ohm-Bass/dp/B001KM4Y54/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1508285106&sr=8-9&keywords=10+inch+subwoofer+8+ohm+dual

Personally I am skeptical about how much of a difference you can make by replacing one driver with another single driver. Sure a longer-excursion driver can move twice as much air, but that is not a ton of difference.

Use a sound-level meter with a tone-generator sound file on SD card at the crossover frequency to make sure they are wired in phase with each other.

Last edited by rsilvers129; 10-17-2017 at 04:23 PM.
Old 10-17-2017, 04:50 PM
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I just looked in my trunk and see the single driver. They could have so easily used two of them because there is no large driver under the passenger-side grille, but that would have cost $20 more.

No easy way to get the driver out, and have to remove the deck as has been said.

The cable driving the driver is in plain view. I could easily cut that, and put a connector on it so that it can be plugged back in.

Then I could buy a dual 10 inch woofer with enclosure to put in the trunk, and plug in to that connector. And when I needed room in the trunk, just pull out the box, and plug the wire back into the factory driver.

Last edited by rsilvers129; 10-17-2017 at 04:53 PM.
Old 10-17-2017, 05:09 PM
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Yes, key is to get a high sensitivity sub like the pioneer championship series in DVC 4 ohm... its around 93 db!
Old 10-18-2017, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rsilvers129
I just looked in my trunk and see the single driver. They could have so easily used two of them because there is no large driver under the passenger-side grille, but that would have cost $20 more.

No easy way to get the driver out, and have to remove the deck as has been said.

The cable driving the driver is in plain view. I could easily cut that, and put a connector on it so that it can be plugged back in.

Then I could buy a dual 10 inch woofer with enclosure to put in the trunk, and plug in to that connector. And when I needed room in the trunk, just pull out the box, and plug the wire back into the factory driver.
This seems to be best solution of all especially if one does not want to go through the hustle of removing the deck. What you guys think of this driver: JL Audio 10TW3-D8 - Subwoofer Drivers
Old 10-18-2017, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rsilvers129
I just looked in my trunk and see the single driver. They could have so easily used two of them because there is no large driver under the passenger-side grille, but that would have cost $20 more.

No easy way to get the driver out, and have to remove the deck as has been said.

The cable driving the driver is in plain view. I could easily cut that, and put a connector on it so that it can be plugged back in.

Then I could buy a dual 10 inch woofer with enclosure to put in the trunk, and plug in to that connector. And when I needed room in the trunk, just pull out the box, and plug the wire back into the factory driver.
Would this work? Seems like a great idea. You are talking about using the factory amp I assume, just plugging in a different woofer? Seems like a great idea.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DCW...t&awug=9032905
Old 10-18-2017, 09:43 AM
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I will have to cut my wire and measure the impedence to know.

Also doing this may cut off one tweeter on the back deck. Not sure that matters to the person driving.


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