SMac770

You're going to always want the workshop manuals when doing this level of work on the vehicle. They have all the "replace if removed" components designated, the torque specs, FYIs, etc
erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, get all the PDFs for your VIN. You can go over copies at cardiagn.com, but that's a pita interface (fixed dimension viewer inside a web page) if you're going to be doing a lot of referencing them. But for a quick lookup, it's there.
Keep in mind with the axle bolt, crack it not more than 90° weight on wheels, then remove the it the rest of the way after the weight is off the wheels. Do not put weight on wheels without the axle in the hub, the hub in the bearing, the bearing on the knuckle, ie fully assembled. The axle bolt torque spec is two parts, Nm and +°. Do the Nm in the air, to the +° on the ground. This is all in the "fine print" of the relevant workshop manual (suspension, wheels, steering one).

sammk1234

Great, thanks for the hints and the online references. I'll look them up. Any hints on tackling the calipers? Appears from the previous post that the steel lines don't allow a lot of movement.

SMac770

I don't have a B9, so not sure what complication involving the brake calipers you are referencing. You'll have to dismount the rotor the same as the standard brake job, so I wouldn't expect there to be much issue involving the calipers.

minmet

Not metal line all the way to caliper. There is a short length of flexible line connected to the caliper and allow to remove the caliper and set aside. At least that’s what the set up on my 2017 Quattro Premium Plus B9. Had done the driver side wheel bearing and twice the brake jobs without a need to take off the brake hoses from caliper.

sammk1234

Small snafu along the way. Turns out the *** aftermarket bearing part number I listed above is incorrect, likely a B8 part. Lesson learned: never trust online sources without triple-checking! Thankfully I caught it before pressing the hub in because the spacing between the bolt holes on the outer housing is visibly different.

New OEM bearing on order awaiting delivery, found a good price at an online OE parts store. Will report back when everything is wrapped up.

For now, the poor car is on jack stands. The disassembly went pretty easily, easier than other bearing jobs I've tacked on American and Japanese cars. Working on the Audi by comparison has been like working with Lego, everything is put together precisely and with purpose. Reminder that even though German machines tend to be over-engineered, they are designed with function and ease of service in mind.

minmet

Looks you are in the South. Up here in northeast, the winter road salt eats into metal and made the wheel bearing “welded” to the knuckle unable to be taken off. I had to impact hammer it off. Looks you are getting there. Taking the bearing off from the knuckle was the hardest part for me.

SMac770

I tend to look for the product catalog by the third-party company to confirm p/n. For ***, INA, LuK, that's Schaeffler: https://aftermarket.schaeffler.com/e...ro/v-TA-117080

If we filter down to wheel bearings: https://aftermarket.schaeffler.com/e...heel%2BBearing

We see *** 713 6110 60 for the front and *** 713 6111 40 for the rear, for 8W (B9 A4/A5)

If we change that to a B8 sedan and filter: https://aftermarket.schaeffler.com/e...57EWheel%2BHub

We see *** 713 6109 00 for front and rear (which we know is reasonable as MLB uses the same bearing front and rear for B/C/D segments (except A8 armored)) for 8K (B8 A4), different part vs the B9 ones.

sammk1234

I'm actually bang smack in the middle of the rust/snow belt but the car was driven in FL for 3.5 years and I've been driving it sparingly in the winter time, so that might be it. Each side only took 10-15 light blows to start coming loose and a few more to eventually get out. The machined mating surfaces look reasonably clean on both sides.

Awesome, thanks for sharing that. Wish I'd spent more time checking before ordering the first pair of bearings but now I know. Not sure how I missed the Schaeffler look-up earlier.

sammk1234

Quick question for one of the experts: I did lose a few big drop of CV grease through the axle bolt hole and thought it would be good to put some fresh grease in. Looks like there's a VW CV grease, PN G 052 738 A4. Is anyone aware of issues with adding 1-2 oz of grease on each side (about how much came out)? I expect there should be no compatibility issues with using a VW-specific grease.

Edit: anyone know of a compatible CV grease that I can pick up a smaller quantity of at a local parts store? The VW grease is a bit expensive and a larger quantity for what I need.

SMac770

That's the outer CV joint grease p/n for the B8 vehicles. The catalog does not specify a p/n for the outer CV joint grease for the B9 vehicles. It appears to be G 052 528 A2. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ase/g052528a2/

But you could probably get away with whatever GKN offers for the outer CV joints (since they make the joints and axles), such as https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/con...-pack-cvgrease Just want to make sure it's CV joint grease and not triple roller joint grease (the inner joint).