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35,000 Mile Service for 2013 A6 2.0 Premium Plus Quattro

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Old 12-05-2017, 08:18 AM
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Default 35,000 Mile Service for 2013 A6 2.0 Premium Plus Quattro

Hi All - I have finally hit about 35,000 miles and was going through the required maintenance table. I am trying to do as much of it as I can on my own because the dealership wanted an obscene amount for stuff that should not be too bad to do myself.

So far I have replaced the dust/pollen filter, oil, and oil filter. I am thinking of doing the spark plugs, but I have not been able to find a good DIY guide and specific part lists where the plugs are pre-gapped, etc. After the spark plugs, I think the only thing I would need to bring the car to a mechanic for is to change the brake fluid, unless that is something I can do myself. I think I will do the lube of the sunroof and doors myself too.

Anyone done the 35,000 maintenance themselves on this car? Thanks!
Old 12-05-2017, 11:49 AM
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Plugs are easy, right on top, and there is a DIY (youtube or this forum) around for it, same as other Audi/VW 2.0L engines. You need the Torq bit, unplug the wires, then pull the coils, if you buy OEM plugs gap should be correct, but check with feeler gauges.

Spark Plugs: NGK PFR7S8EG, 5/8 socket, .032 gap, Laser Platinum - Use dielectric grease where coil pack touches, do NOT use anti-sieze grease, 15 first then 22 ft-lb
Need #30 Torq screwdriver
VW Audi Part no:06H905601A (NGK PFR7S8EG)

Lots of DIY on bleeding brakes, I did this with a pressure bleeder at 10 PSI (buy from ECS tuning or other and get the Audi/VW/Euro cap for it, 3 liter model on sale now for $37). Gives you a chance to check brakes properly while down there (remove and bleed one wheel at a time). Order the Audi Dot 4 (I used 1.5 litres) while you are getting the pressure bleeder.

And don't forget the aluminum racing speed jack and hockey puck, makes life so much easier, lol.

Enjoy!

Last edited by Mesquite77; 12-05-2017 at 12:00 PM.
Old 12-06-2017, 07:25 AM
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Thanks! Ordering the parts for the plugs today. On the plugs you recommend, are they just basically plug and play or do I have to adjust the gaps?
Old 12-06-2017, 07:31 AM
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Ah, I see they are OEM so they should be good, and you mention it in your post. Any recommended feeler gauges? I see a ton getting bad reviews for accuracy. Also, for the ignition coils, no need to lube right? Thanks
Old 12-06-2017, 08:40 AM
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On the end of the ignition coil, where it is going to go over the plug, put a small amount of dielectric grease, do not get any on the spark plug metal parts, this is to keep moisture away from the plug connection on the inside of the coil pack. Youtube likely has videos. Compare the gap on removed plugs to new, likely the same as an easy check.
Old 12-07-2017, 07:54 AM
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Thanks - do you use a special tool when determining torque i.e. 15 first then 22 ft-lb, or do you just go by feel? If you do use a special tool, what is best? (trying to learn as much as I can!)
Old 12-07-2017, 01:14 PM
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Buy a 3/8" torque wrench, I use a clicker. Remember, you are screwing a steel threaded plug, into an aluminum head that likely costs a small fortune, so invest in the tools.
Old 12-07-2017, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mesquite77
Plugs are easy, right on top, and there is a DIY (youtube or this forum) around for it, same as other Audi/VW 2.0L engines. You need the Torq bit, unplug the wires, then pull the coils, if you buy OEM plugs gap should be correct, but check with feeler gauges.

Spark Plugs: NGK PFR7S8EG, 5/8 socket, .032 gap, Laser Platinum - Use dielectric grease where coil pack touches, do NOT use anti-sieze grease, 15 first then 22 ft-lb
Need #30 Torq screwdriver
VW Audi Part no:06H905601A (NGK PFR7S8EG)

Lots of DIY on bleeding brakes, I did this with a pressure bleeder at 10 PSI (buy from ECS tuning or other and get the Audi/VW/Euro cap for it, 3 liter model on sale now for $37). Gives you a chance to check brakes properly while down there (remove and bleed one wheel at a time). Order the Audi Dot 4 (I used 1.5 litres) while you are getting the pressure bleeder.

And don't forget the aluminum racing speed jack and hockey puck, makes life so much easier, lol.

Enjoy!
Thanks! I got that pressure bleeder and will now start doing brake fluid changes myself. I used to pay around $130 to have it done.
Old 12-08-2017, 02:33 PM
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Thanks - so to be clear "15 first then 22" you mean one turn at 15 and another at 22?
Ok so after the plugs, this is what's left of the service:
Cooling system - check and add if neccesary
Battery - check
Plenum panel - remove and clean
Tires - check for wear (I already checked pressure and filled with my portable compressor)
wiper/washer fluid - generic fluid with anti freeze i think is fine but open to any suggestions.
Service reminder display - No idea how to turn off, I think I need to order the handheld scanner or go to dealer.
Doors and Sunroof clean and lube - as a side note, noticed the rubber on door is coming off and not properly adhering. I guess known problem, sent email asking if warranty work.
Brakes and discs (fluid as mentioned before but also the other brake checks)
Exhaust check, front and real axle check, tranny check for leaks (was told there is no fluid to replace and its lifetime)
Any idea how much for the checks? Or are these pretty doable myself?

Thanks!
Old 12-09-2017, 01:22 AM
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Check this: DIY: Spark Plugs for Dummies - update for B7 A4's for good DIY on spark plugs. The 15 then 22 are 2 steps to ensure no over tightening, like the old method, "snug" then 90 degree more as a way not to over crush the crush washers.


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