A6 Custom Exhaust complete
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
A6 Custom Exhaust complete
Well.. it's done for the most part.
I viewed many-many videos looking for a sound clip I liked. It's so hard to get real representation of a soundbyte over video but I ended up being partial to a Borla system I found a clip of. I kept my search to soundbytes where the system was installed on a car using my same 3.0T engine. Below are what sold me on the Borla over the many others. Personal preference obviously.
I wasn't sure I wanted to drop $1,600 - $2,200 for an exhaust system only to have buyer's remorse and not like the sound. I wanted mildly aggressive but also quiet.
WHAT!!! Both you say?? Impossible
Then I remembered Armytrix has that really neat switchable valved exhaust system, but that ran nearly $6,000.
So I decided to try and build my own system. Luckily I'm quite pleased with final outcome. My setup is not as aggressive as the full Borla system but I do have similar sound, while also maintaining quiet-ish ride with still a hint of performance tone at quiet setting.
My final cost came in around $800-ish.
I listed description of parts used in post #3
So success!! Then I thought... the Armytrix has that auto feature where it automatically opens exhaust at preset trigger. How can I pull that off?
Luckily my Aeroforce scan gauge has this ability to activate a remote device with preset trigger. So I got to planning, and this feature now works also.
Valves now open when I hit my preset trigger, and close after value falls below trigger. Instead of RPM's I chose to activate/open valves with throttle position.
I kept original pipes to go back to stock if I want in future. Below are photos of my exhaust as it went together.
Left smaller seperate resonators in place
Replaced larger resonator collector with Borla Pro XS Muffler
New custom tubing back to stock mufflers
Added Y-Pipe with cut-outs just before stock mufflers
I viewed many-many videos looking for a sound clip I liked. It's so hard to get real representation of a soundbyte over video but I ended up being partial to a Borla system I found a clip of. I kept my search to soundbytes where the system was installed on a car using my same 3.0T engine. Below are what sold me on the Borla over the many others. Personal preference obviously.
I wasn't sure I wanted to drop $1,600 - $2,200 for an exhaust system only to have buyer's remorse and not like the sound. I wanted mildly aggressive but also quiet.
WHAT!!! Both you say?? Impossible
Then I remembered Armytrix has that really neat switchable valved exhaust system, but that ran nearly $6,000.
So I decided to try and build my own system. Luckily I'm quite pleased with final outcome. My setup is not as aggressive as the full Borla system but I do have similar sound, while also maintaining quiet-ish ride with still a hint of performance tone at quiet setting.
My final cost came in around $800-ish.
I listed description of parts used in post #3
So success!! Then I thought... the Armytrix has that auto feature where it automatically opens exhaust at preset trigger. How can I pull that off?
Luckily my Aeroforce scan gauge has this ability to activate a remote device with preset trigger. So I got to planning, and this feature now works also.
Valves now open when I hit my preset trigger, and close after value falls below trigger. Instead of RPM's I chose to activate/open valves with throttle position.
I kept original pipes to go back to stock if I want in future. Below are photos of my exhaust as it went together.
Left smaller seperate resonators in place
Replaced larger resonator collector with Borla Pro XS Muffler
New custom tubing back to stock mufflers
Added Y-Pipe with cut-outs just before stock mufflers
Last edited by IknowHuhA6; 11-07-2016 at 06:24 PM.
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
And finally some videos in temporary drop box folder with link below.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f0crm7pw2...-F4a86jSa?dl=0
Update:
For anyone wanting to try to mimic this system....
There are two options for electronic exhaust cut-outs.
A toggle switch activation, and a wireless keyfob activation wiring harness. I bought both style of control harnesses.
1. Wireless keyfob activation is great and helps tuck wires out of way better.
The circuit board for the wireless keyfob system did not have the contact points to splice-in the scan gauge activation automatically via throttle position. Maybe this can be figured out later. But for those without the scan gauge and not wanting automatic activation, I think the wireless keyfob remote is cleaner option over the toggle switch.
2. The toggle switch circuit board is designed differently and allowed me to do my ultimate goal and splice in control wires that activate the cut-outs via my scan gauge when I hit predetermined accelerator position.
Exhaust clamps are two styles.
Normal that are stepped and a flat design.
Depending on how your exhaust shop builds the system, some could use a butt joint design and would use flat clamp to connect together, or they could use flared pipe to receive other section and will use the stepped design clamp.
Personally, I prefer the flared ends with pipes sleeved but more expensive due increased labor. This ensures no exhaust leakage. With the sleeved pipe into flared opening, the pipes need to pull apart to separate so it's bit harder to remove sections at a time, but there is no minor exhaust leaks and you have better exhaust scavenging on a stock 2.25" system without the leaks.
My system was designed using flat clamp with butt joint pipes. This makes system easier to interchange as pieces separate easily once clamp is removed. Being a Alpha & Beta test systems, I didn't want to spend the extra money in case I didn't like the sound.
When I installed the new aftermarket section, I chose to use stock Audi exhaust clamps. You could use generic clamp if you want. I chose to keep this one stock, old one will have rusted bolts that will probably break off if you chose to try and reuse.
Here is the parts I used to build my system.
(2) new Audi exhaust clamps for front, ahead of central larger resonator (or use aftermarket)
(1) Borla Pro XS Muffler to replace center resonator
(2) Exhaust catback downpipe cutout valve system. (I chose 2.5" because I went with 2.5" pipes in first design. Stock pipe is actually 2.25")
(4) exhaust clamps (depending on how you build your system, either butt-joint or stepped clamp can be used, or (6) clamps if you use aftermarket instead of stock like I did at front section)
(1) toggle switch & wiring harness for Exhaust muffler electric valve cutout.
(used to splice in Scan Gauge if you want auto activation/deactivation)
(1) Aeroforce Interceptor scan gauge
(1) Aeroforce relay output module, to activate auxiliary device.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f0crm7pw2...-F4a86jSa?dl=0
Update:
For anyone wanting to try to mimic this system....
There are two options for electronic exhaust cut-outs.
A toggle switch activation, and a wireless keyfob activation wiring harness. I bought both style of control harnesses.
1. Wireless keyfob activation is great and helps tuck wires out of way better.
The circuit board for the wireless keyfob system did not have the contact points to splice-in the scan gauge activation automatically via throttle position. Maybe this can be figured out later. But for those without the scan gauge and not wanting automatic activation, I think the wireless keyfob remote is cleaner option over the toggle switch.
2. The toggle switch circuit board is designed differently and allowed me to do my ultimate goal and splice in control wires that activate the cut-outs via my scan gauge when I hit predetermined accelerator position.
Exhaust clamps are two styles.
Normal that are stepped and a flat design.
Depending on how your exhaust shop builds the system, some could use a butt joint design and would use flat clamp to connect together, or they could use flared pipe to receive other section and will use the stepped design clamp.
Personally, I prefer the flared ends with pipes sleeved but more expensive due increased labor. This ensures no exhaust leakage. With the sleeved pipe into flared opening, the pipes need to pull apart to separate so it's bit harder to remove sections at a time, but there is no minor exhaust leaks and you have better exhaust scavenging on a stock 2.25" system without the leaks.
My system was designed using flat clamp with butt joint pipes. This makes system easier to interchange as pieces separate easily once clamp is removed. Being a Alpha & Beta test systems, I didn't want to spend the extra money in case I didn't like the sound.
When I installed the new aftermarket section, I chose to use stock Audi exhaust clamps. You could use generic clamp if you want. I chose to keep this one stock, old one will have rusted bolts that will probably break off if you chose to try and reuse.
Here is the parts I used to build my system.
(2) new Audi exhaust clamps for front, ahead of central larger resonator (or use aftermarket)
(1) Borla Pro XS Muffler to replace center resonator
(2) Exhaust catback downpipe cutout valve system. (I chose 2.5" because I went with 2.5" pipes in first design. Stock pipe is actually 2.25")
(4) exhaust clamps (depending on how you build your system, either butt-joint or stepped clamp can be used, or (6) clamps if you use aftermarket instead of stock like I did at front section)
(1) toggle switch & wiring harness for Exhaust muffler electric valve cutout.
(used to splice in Scan Gauge if you want auto activation/deactivation)
(1) Aeroforce Interceptor scan gauge
(1) Aeroforce relay output module, to activate auxiliary device.
Last edited by IknowHuhA6; 11-07-2016 at 06:27 PM.
#5
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yes I like options!
So far I'm liking having cut-outs activate/open at 65% throttle. I usually never get that high unless I want to really accelerate... which is when I'd want the louder exhaust based on my driving style.
If feeling the car needs little more power and don't want the exhaust to activate I just downshift using paddles and lower gear gives me added push without having to use more of the accelerator to keep valves closed.
I also wired in a button to activate/deactivate the automatic accelerator trigger if I do not want the cut outs opening automatically... and also have a manual override switch to open/close when I want. Pretty sweet setup. Just need to find permanent location for the toggle switch.
#6
AudiWorld Super User
I also wired in a button to activate/deactivate the automatic accelerator trigger if I do not want the cut outs opening automatically... and also have a manual override switch to open/close when I want. Pretty sweet setup. Just need to find permanent location for the toggle switch.
Check under the headlight switch for the toggle switch placement. Out of the way, easy to get to for operating and you can get to the back by removing the fuse panel cover. I mounted my aux horn button there.
#7
AudiWorld Senior Member
I was going to ask about a manual override for parking lot demonstrations.
Check under the headlight switch for the toggle switch placement. Out of the way, easy to get to for operating and you can get to the back by removing the fuse panel cover. I mounted my aux horn button there.
Check under the headlight switch for the toggle switch placement. Out of the way, easy to get to for operating and you can get to the back by removing the fuse panel cover. I mounted my aux horn button there.
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#9
If you could (IDK if it's even possible) post parts list that would be AWESOME I'm very interested in this setup 'cause sometimes (most of the time) i just want quiet ride