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Beware of Oil Consumption

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Old 02-27-2023, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by AudiAllTheWay
My recommendation along with hoist review inspection, diagnostic scans before and after test drives when buying used higher mileage is a compression test and some simple checks for leaking injectors. If a cylinder is low compression then walk away unless your looking for a project car and can buy it cheap.
This is my point. People out there who are not aware that these cars at higher mileage could be hiding irreversible engine damage need to know this. This is why I posted this thread to PUT THE WORD OUT. There are tons of these cars north of 100,000 miles for sale with clean CARFAX reports and great dealer comments. The vast majority of people in the market for a used car will not perform a PPI and will not go as far as request a compression test or injector test. These are things that require taking the engine apart and dealers would not allow that. The bottom line, DO NOT BUY.
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Old 02-27-2023, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kelisko
People out there who are not aware that these cars at higher mileage could be hiding irreversible engine damage need to know this.

The vast majority of people in the market for a used car will not perform a PPI and will not go as far as request a compression test or injector test.
This applies to any brand any model used vehicle and especially any DI / MPI high mileage.

Any good shop can PPI including pull spark plugs to do a compression test if a buyer is willing to pay a few hours labor.
If a seller or shop refuses a PPI then your dealing with the wrong people and walk away.
If a buyer doesn’t want PPI then Buyer Beware.
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Old 02-28-2023, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by AudiAllTheWay
This applies to any brand any model used vehicle and especially any DI / MPI high mileage.
Any good shop can PPI including pull spark plugs to do a compression test if a buyer is willing to pay a few hours labor.
If a seller or shop refuses a PPI then your dealing with the wrong people and walk away.
If a buyer doesn’t want PPI then Buyer Beware.
When did I say that other brands do not have issues at high mileage? Please remind me. And when did I say that a dealer would oppose a PPI? What I am saying they would oppose is things like a compression test and and injector test which requires "taking the engine apart". A typical PPI is mostly visual without going that far.

It is normal for a high mileage vehicle to have tear and wear here and there that may need the replacement of a part here and there. But cylinder blocks, pistons and rings at 100,000 miles or so, seriously? Il will say it again and keep saying it: PEOPLE DON'T BUY!!!

I based my purchase on several factors, one being that this fourth generation V6 3.0 TFSI is an "evolution" of the first generation V6 3.2 FSI. The experience I am having with the 3.2 FSI at over 200,000 miles is amazing!!! I have neglected this engine for a long time and have abused it in so many ways that you can't imagine but it is still holding on, strong with ORIGINAL cylinder blocks, pistons and rings, cylinder heads, oil separator, water pump, oil pump, injectors etc. I would assume the fourth generation of this AMAZING engine would be even better right? What a DISAPOINTMENT!!!

I have warned by base and people I care about and they are grateful for me putting the word out. By posting this thread, I have done what my conscience was telling me to do and I am satisfied that it is getting views and raising questions.


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Old 03-01-2023, 12:55 AM
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Quick question, what is the state of your catalytic converters?
Old 03-01-2023, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by xanmato
Quick question, what is the state of your catalytic converters?
I cannot say for sure but the exhaust is definitely not clogged and a scan with XTool or VCDS does not reveal any issue with the O2 sensors or catalytic converters. Just "Cylinder Disabling" and "Cylinder misfires".
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Old 03-01-2023, 08:48 AM
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I've always questioned the 10K mile oil change intervals. I am not going over 7,500 on mine and using Ceratec. Also, too many people don't warm the engine so that oil (not coolant) can get to proper temperature before stepping on the gas.
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Old 03-02-2023, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 968racer
I've always questioned the 10K mile oil change intervals. I am not going over 7,500 on mine and using Ceratec. Also, too many people don't warm the engine so that oil (not coolant) can get to proper temperature before stepping on the gas.
"Warming" means different things to different people. To my neighbors, it' means pressing the remote starter from the kitchen and ten minutes later coming outside and driving off.

To me, it means starting the car, putting on seatbelts, pressing the stop start defeat and driving off gently. Then driving gently for five to ten minutes before getting on it.

In the first case, that's ten minutes of no load, leading to delayed warmup and additional wear with cold fluids.

In the second case, it's a much quicker warmup at light load.

...not to mention the unnecessary air pollution while the car warms up slowly, just sitting going nowhere.
Old 03-02-2023, 07:08 AM
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Modern engines warm up quite fast. I think it is fine to drive away right after starting the engine. Just don't floor it and drive at higher RPM's until the coolant temperature reaches the ideal point. Oddly enough, "warming up" in place i.e. idling may be in fact bad for these newer generation engines.
Old 03-02-2023, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by kelisko
Modern engines warm up quite fast. I think it is fine to drive away right after starting the engine. Just don't floor it and drive at higher RPM's until the coolant temperature reaches the ideal point. Oddly enough, "warming up" in place i.e. idling may be in fact bad for these newer generation engines.
Hey @kelisko , we agree on something!

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Old 06-05-2023, 11:12 AM
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Latest update.

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