My V1 hardwire in S6
- 1. T-25 torx screwdriver/bit
- 2. 14-18ga wire tap (blue)
- 3. 18-20ga wire tap (red)
- 4. Small slip joint pliers or equivalent
- 5. 1/4-1/2" thick foam sheet
- 6. Electrical tape
1. Open the sunglass holder to reveal a single T-25 screw. Remove this screw and pull down on the front of the console and it will come down easily. The other side is simply held in by two tabs that slide right out. I just let it all hang by the wires since one of the thick bundles of wires is mechanically connected to the plastic frame.
2. The wire harness that connects to the sunroof motor contains a nice thick ground. Remove the connector by sliding the red tab:
3. Then squeeze the black latch while pulling on the harness and it will release.
4. The thick red wire is constant 12V connected to the battery (won't be using this). The thick brown wire is ground:
5. Use a 14-18ga wire tap to connect the ground of your V1 power module.

6. The red wire with blue stripe in the Homelink plug is switched 12V that comes on with the ignition. Use a 18-22ga wire tap to connect the V1 positive lead. You'll need to push back the outer fabric-like tape to give you some room to install the wire tap.
7. To prevent rattles and buzzing, I wrapped the V1 power module in some foam and electrical tape. I did the same thing with the excess phone cord that connects to the V1 and pushed both into the space between the headliner and the roof.
8. I prefer to have my V1 mounted to the left of the rear view mirror because I can more easily see the indicators in my peripheral vision. Many will prefer to have it on the right to minimize visual obstructions and to allow the sun visor to fully push forward
Last edited by RobC; Nov 3, 2012 at 05:05 PM.
This is a great DIY write up and Im not taking anything away from that. This way is a bit trickier for those who havent done it before though.
I just hard wired mine in my new car with the remote display.
Had it hardwired in my RS for 9 years. I had no problem finding switched +12 in the older car but in my A8 I can't find anything in the fuse box that's switched. I was not yet ready to start taking stuff apart but figured that the home link was my best option as you proved. I'm not sure if taking down the front dome is as quick on the A8. I'll have to dig. I have the hidden display.
I'll dig into it this week. For my I just have to remember to switch off the v1 when I park!
Mike
I just hard wired mine in my new car with the remote display.
Had it hardwired in my RS for 9 years. I had no problem finding switched +12 in the older car but in my A8 I can't find anything in the fuse box that's switched. I was not yet ready to start taking stuff apart but figured that the home link was my best option as you proved. I'm not sure if taking down the front dome is as quick on the A8. I'll have to dig. I have the hidden display.
I'll dig into it this week. For my I just have to remember to switch off the v1 when I park!
Mike
Trending Topics
Bringing Audi to Life for Audi Fans
Yes, I checked all the fuses on that side. There are two banks and all are hot all the time.
The trunk wall has another large group of fuses where I think some of the switched ones are.
The newer electronics apparently control when a device is off rather than the ignition switch.
I'll find a proper wire.
The front dome cover looks a bit tricky to remove. I always like to see someone else post a few pictures like in this tread before taking something apart. Call me Chicken LOL....or careful...LOL....I did plenty of taking apart things in my RS and other prior cars.
I was toying with installing a completely hidden radar detector but I wound only do it if I could DIY and I think K40 is only done by dealer or you cant even buy one!
I still think the V1 is the best.
Mike
for how I did it on a 2012 A6 and see some more tips too.
It was the first bank, slot 9 or 10. If you have side warnings you may want to disable pop and set to the small "L" on the V1 settings.








