Subwoofer Implementation Time
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Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2017
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Subwoofer Implementation Time
Hey guys,
First, let me say it's a pleasure to find folks here willing to share their experience in such a way that helps the community. My wife has had a Q7 since last summer and I had been very impressed with it. In fact, when my tuned BMW needed major work I gave-up, switched brands and purchased a 2018 A6 Comp, which I am really enjoying. I haven't owned an Audi before so I am learning a good deal reading here and on AZ. Thanks for all the great and helpful comments, particularly SubterFUSE, Sgroer, and Vodka G (to name only a few).
I've read through several threads about subwoofer installs, such as the one starter by Sgroer, and stereo upgrades more generally; and, I've decided to add a sealed sub to my trunk (which is not what I had originally intended). My plan is to tap into the existing subwoofer line, keeping the existing sub intact and fully operational, and I'll run that line to either (1) a sealed 8 or 10" JL Audio PowerWedge Plus, with integrated remote start, amp, and line converter, or (2) a separate amp with line level input (and, therefore, line converter) and a pre-fab, sealed JL Audio 10" Sub.
My questions are:
First, let me say it's a pleasure to find folks here willing to share their experience in such a way that helps the community. My wife has had a Q7 since last summer and I had been very impressed with it. In fact, when my tuned BMW needed major work I gave-up, switched brands and purchased a 2018 A6 Comp, which I am really enjoying. I haven't owned an Audi before so I am learning a good deal reading here and on AZ. Thanks for all the great and helpful comments, particularly SubterFUSE, Sgroer, and Vodka G (to name only a few).
I've read through several threads about subwoofer installs, such as the one starter by Sgroer, and stereo upgrades more generally; and, I've decided to add a sealed sub to my trunk (which is not what I had originally intended). My plan is to tap into the existing subwoofer line, keeping the existing sub intact and fully operational, and I'll run that line to either (1) a sealed 8 or 10" JL Audio PowerWedge Plus, with integrated remote start, amp, and line converter, or (2) a separate amp with line level input (and, therefore, line converter) and a pre-fab, sealed JL Audio 10" Sub.
My questions are:
- Is there any advantage to having the amplifier and subwoofer as two separate components? For example, is the remote start capability or power delivery likely to be so much better with separates than the packaged options by JL that I would be better off long-term adding two components. My default amp of choice if I go with separates will likely be 200-300 RMS by JL, Alpine or Sony, just because I've seen a few mentioned here and on AZ that seem to fit nicely in the trunk of our cars.
- Since I have BOSE and, therefore, no separate sub control in the MMI (just bass, treble, "AudioPilot", fader and balance), I'll need to run a remote bass control. JL and many others have options and I was thinking of going all JL simply based on reputation for consistently good product (not necessarily the best, but good). To do that, if I do the install (still on fence), would I run it from amp - or sub - under carpet in trunk, under back seat, under rear carpet and up toward arm rest (near the USB port), or is there a better path and location. I personally HATE the idea of anything messing up a new, and otherwise, stock looking interior on any car, and it would drive me nuts if the noob location looked out of place.
- I have generally deiced on a sealed box, because I think I'll have more flexibility as to where it sits in the trunk because I don't need to worry about port/corner loading process, and because I want TIGHT music not necessarily BOOM, BOOM from two blocks away; are these assumptions correct? FWIW, yesterday, while in the car I listened to some old U2, Muddy Waters, Norah Jones, Eagles, Stevie Wonder and Black Eyed Peas. If my wife and kids happened to be with me, we'd likely rock the Katy Perry, Post Malone, and whatever happened to be on Hits 1, at low volume of course.
- Finally, since I want the flexibility to remove the sub when I've got tons of my kids stuff - or crap from HomeDepot/Lowes in the car - is there any specific install cabling packages you all would recommend?
Last edited by Jwebb335xi; Mar 8, 2018 at 06:14 AM.
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 407
Likes: 10
From: Portland, Maine
Actually seems like you have thought all that out. I recall seeing somewhere a remote for bass control that was Bluetooth or maybe a handheld wireless remote? Yes, sealed is good for what you want. Maybe if you looked on diyaudiomobile.com? I think that is a site I used before. Let us all know what works please as I have BOSE in my D4 and would like a harder hit.....not just boom boom as you say!
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 351
From: Mt Pleasant, SC
You are going to want to disconnect the Bose subwoofer. You can leave the Bose woofer installed, and it will work if you plug the wires back in, but you don't want that sub playing at the same time as your add on sub.
That JL PowerWedge+ looks like it has everything you need in a simple box. I think you are going to like that the amp is on board, because it will make removal and reinstallation much easier.
I suggest you get the remote bass control option. You will want that to help match the sub to the rest of your Bose system.
Wiring your sub is going to be fairly simple because the car battery is located in the tire well. You are going to need to tap into the battery positive terminal, and then you will need a Fuse Block within 18 inches of the battery.
You can use the factory ground point in the tire well for your ground. I can post a pic of my tire well to show the grounding point and my fuse block.
That JL PowerWedge+ looks like it has everything you need in a simple box. I think you are going to like that the amp is on board, because it will make removal and reinstallation much easier.
I suggest you get the remote bass control option. You will want that to help match the sub to the rest of your Bose system.
Wiring your sub is going to be fairly simple because the car battery is located in the tire well. You are going to need to tap into the battery positive terminal, and then you will need a Fuse Block within 18 inches of the battery.
You can use the factory ground point in the tire well for your ground. I can post a pic of my tire well to show the grounding point and my fuse block.
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