3.0 AVK B1S1 Front Passenger O2 Sensor Replacement
07-24-2011, 04:33 PM
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3.0 AVK B1S1 Front Passenger O2 Sensor Replacement
Just completed this task. Unlike the 2.8s, the front 3.0 sensors are right at the very front of the down-pipe where they can barely be seen. The Bentley says to remove the right down-pipe in order to replace the sensor, but of course that means lowering the sub-frame as well.
It can be done from the top.
1) Remove flex hose coming from the MAF and the plastic intake runner (Air Duct) which attaches to the Throttle Body.
2) Remove the rubber 'Y' air hose which is just below the intake runner. This is part of the secondary air system.
3) You can now look down toward the B1S1 O2 sensor from an eye position near the rear center of the engine. The O2 sensor is pointing roughly to the coolant reservoir.
4) Thread a 02 sensor wrench with a long extension down toward the B1S1 sensor. It may help to have a flex-joint on the sensor wrench. There is not a lot of room to turn it. Plan B, which I used, is to cut off the O2 wires close to the sensor and use a conventional 22mm long socket to loosen the sensor. Lots of fun trying to get the aviation snips down there. It helps to remove the nut holding the PS hard pipe so you can re-position that effectively.
5) Since it is next to impossible to screw in the new O2 sensor by hand, tape a long extension to the body of the sensor and use that to rotate the sensor around so you can get it threaded in. You'll need the sensor wrench to fully tighten it, but this time the hex faces lined up OK for me and I had the swing room to do so.
6) Re-install everything. Run the readiness tests or just drive around for a few trips.
7) The best price on the sensor (06C906265B) was through Amazon, $81.66 with
free shipping. Probably a $500+ repair at the dealer.
It can be done from the top.
1) Remove flex hose coming from the MAF and the plastic intake runner (Air Duct) which attaches to the Throttle Body.
2) Remove the rubber 'Y' air hose which is just below the intake runner. This is part of the secondary air system.
3) You can now look down toward the B1S1 O2 sensor from an eye position near the rear center of the engine. The O2 sensor is pointing roughly to the coolant reservoir.
4) Thread a 02 sensor wrench with a long extension down toward the B1S1 sensor. It may help to have a flex-joint on the sensor wrench. There is not a lot of room to turn it. Plan B, which I used, is to cut off the O2 wires close to the sensor and use a conventional 22mm long socket to loosen the sensor. Lots of fun trying to get the aviation snips down there. It helps to remove the nut holding the PS hard pipe so you can re-position that effectively.
5) Since it is next to impossible to screw in the new O2 sensor by hand, tape a long extension to the body of the sensor and use that to rotate the sensor around so you can get it threaded in. You'll need the sensor wrench to fully tighten it, but this time the hex faces lined up OK for me and I had the swing room to do so.
6) Re-install everything. Run the readiness tests or just drive around for a few trips.
7) The best price on the sensor (06C906265B) was through Amazon, $81.66 with
free shipping. Probably a $500+ repair at the dealer.
07-27-2011, 08:47 AM
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Thanks for this. I've been looking everywhere to see if anyone has been able to get to these bastards from the top. I actually had the dealer replace B1S1 on my 02 3.0 last year to the tune of $600 which is insane for a sensor. I managed to get to B1S2 myself and replace it so my passenger side bank is good, but the driver side will need both sensors replaced on my car soon I would imagine. For now it runs great.
06-12-2016, 09:48 AM
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Thanks for this. I've been looking everywhere to see if anyone has been able to get to these bastards from the top. I actually had the dealer replace B1S1 on my 02 3.0 last year to the tune of $600 which is insane for a sensor. I managed to get to B1S2 myself and replace it so my passenger side bank is good, but the driver side will need both sensors replaced on my car soon I would imagine. For now it runs great.
08-12-2017, 03:36 PM
#4
I know that this thread is old, but it's short, so I hoped to add to this. I too was able to do this through the top. I followed most of the procedure above.
1) Removed flex hose from MAF. Spring clip w/ channel pliers and screw clamp w/ assorted ratchet size/screw driver
2) Remove intake runner and the plate above it (1st) as well as resonator. It required unclipping some harnesses and using a 5mm hex and/or assorted small sockets (my bolts were mixed). That other Audi forum had VERY detailed instructions. Not sure if I can cross linke, but look for this on Google "DIY: B6 3.0L Vacuum Actuator/Drive Unit + Intake Manifold"
4) I used an o2 socket, the kind w/ the groove up the side. The crows foot didn't do anything b/c it kept hitting the engine block. I used a 3/8 ratchet, and cheap from china o2 socket w/ a universal joint, and a wonderful 30" solid ratchet extension. In fact, it took me the 5.5 hours of the dealer b/c I was fighting w/ this socket. It would have worked better if the socket was deeper, and the groove wider, b/c it barely fit over the sensor wire and kept pushing the sensor out.
5) putting it back was terrible. but eventually I settled on the socket and wedged the sensor in there with a piece of string that I also used to guide the head of the socket so it wouldn't dip down. If you use a ton of light and put your eye just above the manifold where the top plate came off, you can see the bung opening to the precat. I did not remove the Y hose, or a nut to the hard pipe. It was difficult, but again, mostly b/c of this one tool. The 30" extension saved the day.
Everything went back together easy. I did manage to bust a few clips (hey, it's 2017, and this is a 02) but I used zip ties from my own stash plus some from the sensor kit to get everything back together. I did NOT perfectly route the new sensor cable the exact same as old, but I did ensure that I zipped it away from strong heat sources and made sure it didn't interfere with anything else.
Got a misfire on the first test drive, I guess I got some dust into the intake, but the o2 sensor code cleared, and then I was able to clear the misfire as well. BTW, I used Carista and a generic bluetooth OBDII adapter to check and clear codes. Works great. Also allows some customization on newer audis. I didn't set readiness since I live in the city, but I'll keep checking it as I drive around.
This was on an AVK engine, 30v, 3.0L, from a 2002 c5 a6 quattro. Sensor cost me 100 w/ tax from pepboys after a discount code (similar price on amazon), and I didn't have all the tools, so that was another 45, but I won't count it against the job. The 5.5 Hours was a little rough, but I put at least 50% of that on the bum socket. get one with a wide groove that is extra deep!
1) Removed flex hose from MAF. Spring clip w/ channel pliers and screw clamp w/ assorted ratchet size/screw driver
2) Remove intake runner and the plate above it (1st) as well as resonator. It required unclipping some harnesses and using a 5mm hex and/or assorted small sockets (my bolts were mixed). That other Audi forum had VERY detailed instructions. Not sure if I can cross linke, but look for this on Google "DIY: B6 3.0L Vacuum Actuator/Drive Unit + Intake Manifold"
4) I used an o2 socket, the kind w/ the groove up the side. The crows foot didn't do anything b/c it kept hitting the engine block. I used a 3/8 ratchet, and cheap from china o2 socket w/ a universal joint, and a wonderful 30" solid ratchet extension. In fact, it took me the 5.5 hours of the dealer b/c I was fighting w/ this socket. It would have worked better if the socket was deeper, and the groove wider, b/c it barely fit over the sensor wire and kept pushing the sensor out.
5) putting it back was terrible. but eventually I settled on the socket and wedged the sensor in there with a piece of string that I also used to guide the head of the socket so it wouldn't dip down. If you use a ton of light and put your eye just above the manifold where the top plate came off, you can see the bung opening to the precat. I did not remove the Y hose, or a nut to the hard pipe. It was difficult, but again, mostly b/c of this one tool. The 30" extension saved the day.
Everything went back together easy. I did manage to bust a few clips (hey, it's 2017, and this is a 02) but I used zip ties from my own stash plus some from the sensor kit to get everything back together. I did NOT perfectly route the new sensor cable the exact same as old, but I did ensure that I zipped it away from strong heat sources and made sure it didn't interfere with anything else.
Got a misfire on the first test drive, I guess I got some dust into the intake, but the o2 sensor code cleared, and then I was able to clear the misfire as well. BTW, I used Carista and a generic bluetooth OBDII adapter to check and clear codes. Works great. Also allows some customization on newer audis. I didn't set readiness since I live in the city, but I'll keep checking it as I drive around.
This was on an AVK engine, 30v, 3.0L, from a 2002 c5 a6 quattro. Sensor cost me 100 w/ tax from pepboys after a discount code (similar price on amazon), and I didn't have all the tools, so that was another 45, but I won't count it against the job. The 5.5 Hours was a little rough, but I put at least 50% of that on the bum socket. get one with a wide groove that is extra deep!
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