Flint

So, most of my issues detailed in this thread have been resolved (most pressing, the axle they installed was bad, so it got a replacement under warranty).

Now, when I'm coming to a stop, in the final few feet before I've completely stopped, my ABS starts kicking in. I'm usually going very slow at that point, but it's very noticeable and it almost feels like the brakes are going to completely let go instead of stopping me. I have not tried (or needed to) panic stopping, so I don't know what that would do, but it's extremely annoying and sort of unsettling. I get no ABS or traction control warning lights. I do have a "SERVICE!" message in my LCD, but it's mostly worn out so I can't tell for what. Hopefully there is some kind of code I can read. But any ideas what is causing this? The roads have been pretty dry as well.

EDIT: for some reason when I searched, nothing came up, but when I posted this, suddenly the "related topics" at the bottom were full of similar posts.

Anyway what its doing is pretty much what's happening here
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/aud...pping-2194586/
and here
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...10mph-2805924/

I'll note that they did clean up the front wheel sensors, but none of the work I had done was in the rear, so I doubt they looked there.

Harleyguy

You can perform a type of ABS performance test in a deserted parking lot. In a vacant lot do a couple of "panic" brake applications to see how they perform. It would be helpful if you do this under dry, normal conditions and maybe again when traction is compromised by wet or slick pavement. Also a VAG Com scan should yield information. It can tell you which wheel is having the issue. The "Service" warning could just be that no one reset the service interval when it was last taken care of. I don't recall if your car fits the parameters but you can have the center display replaced fairly cheaply in some instances. Module Masters can do it for about $150 but can't do the job if you have the analog clock.

Flint

Well, I can't afford to be without my car while I wait for the display to get replaced. I have watched some videos where people DIY it, I'm tempted pick up another cluster with a bad LCD and try it myself. I wish I could afford to drop $200 on the VAG-Com...

Harleyguy

When I did my center display a couple of years ago it was only down for 9 days. Literally, I pulled the cluster in mid afternoon, packed it up and took it to FedEx and sent it 2 day express to Moscow, Idaho from southern Arizona. It was dropped off at my house after lunch exactly 9 days later and I had it up and running 30 minutes later. It can vary depending on how busy Module Masters are, but they are quick. There are numerous posts on here where people tried to replace the display on their own and were not only unsuccessful, but created even more problems. As a general rule it requires special tools to do the center display( hot air de-soldering tool for one). If you pick up another cluster to try this on, you may not know if you were successful because it won't be programmed to your car if it has an installed immobilizer. I also understand the cost issue but the cost of Ross Tech for your laptop is usually recouped in one or two DYI repairs. As for the brake issue, I personally wouldn't mess around. The results of a brake malfunction could get you on the 6 o'clock news, or worse. If these things are a problem then I would, with all due respect, suggest you find a different car that is easier to maintain.

Flint

I tried the panic stop test, and didn't see much difference. So you think this is sensor related and not module related. That seems to be what others with this problem all say. Well, short of buying the Ross-Tech software, which would obviously be ideal, I could go around the car and make sure to clean all the sensors to start, see if that changes anything. It's just odd that it didn't do this at all until I got it back from the last repair (which was the axle and a couple 02 sensors). A couple people in the threads I linked mentioned just disconnecting the ABS control module, but that doesn't sound all that safe to me.

Harleyguy

You could disconnect the ABS module while the vehicle is parked for a couple of hours (like overnight). Then reconnect it before driving. This will sometimes reset the indicator light. If the ABS module is disconnected the only adverse result is that you no longer have ABS. The brakes will function "old school" like older folks remember. It could very well be a faulty sensor or a broken wire at one of the sensor locations. Even a faulty connector at the sensor. Start by thoroughly looking at the wheel where the axle was worked on and follow the wires back as far as possible. It's always helpful when a problem crops up to stop and think, "what was the last thing I messed with?" Your mechanic could have accidentally pulled a wire apart, disconnected something, etc.

Flint

Well, thinking back, my mechanic said the reason the traction control light was on steadily was because the computer "was not seeing the wheel" and that he cleaned up that sensor. So I'll start there. Hell, maybe just preventatively replace it with a new one.

Harleyguy

That comment indicates an open circuit in the sensor portion of the system. Bad connector, broken wire, damaged sensor, etc. If he used the wrong solvent when he "cleaned up the sensor" it could have damaged the unit. Before spending money on another part, give it a good look over.

4Driver4

Flint

For the time being I just unplugged the control module and (annoying warning lights and sounds aside) it goes and stops normally. Before the weather turns (more) sour I want to get this taken care of. I'll take it out and clean & re-seat it, see if that helps. If not, I'll plan on running it back by my mechanic so he can at least run the VAG COM codes.