Always the same code
Over the last 2-1/2 years, two new MAFs were installed. Last was in January, before that in 2007. Following the MAF, the light came on and multiple times the sensor was cleaned, then everything reset.
With the recent MAF, the CEL came on the first day, then after reset stayed out for 6 months. Now, it comes on goes out after 3-4 days of driving.
O2 sensors were replaced last year
Vacuum lines tested (smoked)
This the error code:
11141-17549 Load Calc cross check. sometimes the values indicate too rich, other times it's too lean.
Car stumbles a bit under load shortly after startup but otherwise is ok, fairly good mpg. With light on, I see or feel no difference in operation.
Going back before this MAF was installed, it would shift late and not want to downshift.
I bought this car in 2004 with 110K and the CEL has been an issue off and on since the. Sometimes it stays off for 4-5 months.
Coolant temp sensor was replaced twice in the first year
one injector was replaced in 2007
secondary air pump was replaced in 2007
had several gas caps.
Spark plugs were replaced at 120K. Although with 70K of driving, it might be time to change them and that will happen, but I just don't think that is the problem.
I drove it with a local guy (snowman) who hooked up his VAG and watched it on his laptop (until his batter died). Everything looked good O2 values were correct under accel and decel.
This is not a show car or a racer but other than the CELs and the rear window squirter, it's been a great car. I plan on keeping it another couple years.
The more info, the better. Mileage, recent services just prior to last cel event, engine size, trans type, any mods, (oil soaked K&N air filters, etc...)
Since owning the car, I've taken to three shops
1st a long time Independant shop who I've gone to starting with an 86 5000S back in 1989. I was always happy with him through several newer Audis but he got squeezed by the economy and made some bad choices. One of which was hiring a counter/scheduler who didn't follow up with me on things I wanted done several times. They had looked at the CEL a dozen times, changed the Temp Sensor twice and had no answers for the CEL.
Next was a place with "European" in the name, (very busy shop, lots of audis Concours D'elegance posters all over the waiting room walls). They seemed to know what they were doing. They did my tbelt and a bunch of other stuff. While a little expensive, I thought it was worth it until I went back 4 months after they replaced the MAF, then the CEL was on and off for another 6 months. In the end they said it needed another MAF and just shrugged when i said, what about the one you put already put in?
At about that time, there was an oil leak (valve cover area). Covers had been changed by the first shop a year and a half earlier. Euro gave me a price for one cover which i though was way too much. I knew this other guy, "jeff" (regular shop, specializing in exhaust and brakes but does everything. He is also very active in a non profit group I belong to and donated decent bucks to our cause to sponsor a radio show I do. (I won't say here because I don't want to get into politics)
I asked him about the oil leak and after checking he said it was the adjuster covers. He did valve covers, cam seals and adjuster covers for about the same $ as Euro guy wanted for just one valve cover. That was 6 months ago and not one smell of oil since. That is when I divorced the Euro guy.
Afer looking checking, resetting, cleaning sensor and throttle adaptation several tims, Jeff said we should change the MAF. The day after he changed it, the CEL light came on. He reset it and it stayed off for 6 months. Now, he is baffled as me why it keeps getting the codes. He said he'd put in another MAF and no charge, but I don't think that is it. So I said, let's each do some research and see if we can find the real problem.
I do remember the changeover valve being checked. I'm not sure if it was Euro guy. I will bring this up again to Jeff this week. The car has got 190K on it so I may just tell him to replace all the vac lines.
What else? I don't suppose you want to know about any other personal Ewwww problems?
I'd opt for the smoke test again, and this time make sure your guy isolates all the separate vacuum systems. There are really only a few things that could cause this code. Also, don't rule out the fact that maybe the new maf you got might be faulty; I've seen that before with brand new electronics. Quality control is sometimes iffy. Look here at Ross-Tech for more info.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...9/P1141/004417
In my opinion if you've replaced the maf and map sensor, the only possible conclusion is a vac leak. Check the intake manifold. Has it ever been removed? Are all the bolts tight? Maybe there is a crack in it from some other work. Smoke test everything between the intake and maf.
Keep in mind that there is a big difference between a parts changer and an actual technician, the latter of which will actually do the legwork required to keep the customer from buying parts and paying for labor when unnecessary. Unfortunately, sometimes the mechanic gets lazy and decides to throw parts at a job instead of doing the proper diag procedure. The bad thing is, you pay for it.
Yesterday, my car got "smoked" again. He did find a vacuum leak. It is in the brake vacuum booster. He told me it was a horrendous job to replace the brake booster and as long as the brakes worked fine, it wouldn't be worth the cost to tear it apart. Do you concur with this?
Since he didn't fix the vac leak, I don't suppose anything will change regarding the CEL light. It comes on about once every week or two and goes out after 3-4 days of driving. I can feel a slight stumbling before it comes on, but then there is no difference. I suppose I'll just live with it. I remember reading a post about the screen and the sensor getting dirty. Maybe i'll just have him clean the sensor every time i get an oil change.
While it was in the shop, i asked him to test my AC and see it needed som "juice". He said it was fine but my electric fan was dead. It doesn't affect normal driving as the regular fan keeps the operating temp where it should be. The AC works fine when i am driving at higway speed. However, when I am idlling, it is not very cool because the fan is not on.
That seems logical to me and i remember a year or two ago, the fan making noise which didn't repeat. I was told it was suspect but it never repeated the noise and i assumed it was ok. Any idea on a source for a fan? Should I get a used one or new? With 195+K on a 99 car, I can't see spending too much on it.
I'd opt for the smoke test again, and this time make sure your guy isolates all the separate vacuum systems. There are really only a few things that could cause this code. Also, don't rule out the fact that maybe the new maf you got might be faulty; I've seen that before with brand new electronics. Quality control is sometimes iffy. Look here at Ross-Tech for more info.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...9/P1141/004417
In my opinion if you've replaced the maf and map sensor, the only possible conclusion is a vac leak. Check the intake manifold. Has it ever been removed? Are all the bolts tight? Maybe there is a crack in it from some other work. Smoke test everything between the intake and maf.
Keep in mind that there is a big difference between a parts changer and an actual technician, the latter of which will actually do the legwork required to keep the customer from buying parts and paying for labor when unnecessary. Unfortunately, sometimes the mechanic gets lazy and decides to throw parts at a job instead of doing the proper diag procedure. The bad thing is, you pay for it.
In ref to your brake booster vac leak; it'll just get worse. There's a rubber diaphragm inside with vac on one side and atmospheric pressure on the other. It's the atmospheric pressure that provides the boost. But once the rubber deteriorates enough, no boost. It'll be worse than manual brakes.





