A/C Replacement advice 2002 A6 2.7t
#1
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
A/C Replacement advice 2002 A6 2.7t
My A/C compressor seized and melted the clutch. I have all new parts to replace the following. Compressor, drier, OT, o-rings, and condenser. I'm planning to flush everything not being replaced. I noticed my compressor says it does not contain oil. Can anyone tell my what type and how much oil I would use for the system? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. And is there anything else you think I should do while I have the whole damn front end apart... again?
I really appreciate the advice you folks have given me in the past.
Thank you.
I really appreciate the advice you folks have given me in the past.
Thank you.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
You need to have someone with the correct HVAC tools fill the system. I have gauges and top off my systems when needed but if it's empty it needs to be evacuated and then refilled . They should know what oil and how much. The C5 system isn't complex so it shouldn't be a big deal for any shop.
#3
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
You need to have someone with the correct HVAC tools fill the system. I have gauges and top off my systems when needed but if it's empty it needs to be evacuated and then refilled . They should know what oil and how much. The C5 system isn't complex so it shouldn't be a big deal for any shop.
Long story short, I actually tried to use a local "Professional" who told me to buy the parts and he'd take care of it. I bought the parts and then the car sat for a month. When I asked about it? He said he wouldn't be able to do it. So... I'm stuck with parts I can't return because it's been too long. The other local repair shop won't install my parts.
That's why I asked for the advice. Thanks again for your reply.
#5
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
I googled "Audi A6 C5 AC oil charge" and found the following:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...r1iMOQ&cad=rja
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...r1iMOQ&cad=rja
#6
AudiWorld Super User
You do have a vacuum pump?
Make sure you install a new receiver/dryer or desiccant bag as well as ensuring the orifice or expansion valve filter is replaced.
#7
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Right? After all the parts are assembled and installed, you need to evacuate the system and it needs to hold that vacuum for 30-45 minutes. Then you can fill with refrigerant and oil.
Make sure you install a new receiver/dryer or desiccant bag as well as ensuring the orifice or expansion valve filter is replaced.
Make sure you install a new receiver/dryer or desiccant bag as well as ensuring the orifice or expansion valve filter is replaced.
To be honest...? I'd rather have paid someone to do it. But unfortunately I'm a little stuck holding all the parts. It should be a good time! Just like the timing belt, water pump, oil seals, timing chain gaskets, etc...
Ugh...
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#9
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
I completed the A/C compressor replacement this weekend. It wasn't too bad. As always, the most time consuming thing is tearing the whole front end apart. I tried to remove it by only removing the oil filter and cooler. If I was a more patient man with small girlish hands instead of giant meat hooks? I might have been able to do it. Since that didn't work... I took the whole thing apart for ease of access. I was also able to make a few other minor repairs while poking around in there.
My advice: Have a decent vacuum pump handy. Don't try to use the $19.99 Pump sold at places similar to Arbor Fright. A lot of part stores have a decent loaner pump you can use. It was short notice and I was able to rent one.
My advice: Have a decent vacuum pump handy. Don't try to use the $19.99 Pump sold at places similar to Arbor Fright. A lot of part stores have a decent loaner pump you can use. It was short notice and I was able to rent one.
#10
AudiWorld Super User
Just a tip for you guys using vacuum pumps, a micron gauge should also be used to determine a tight system with a value of at least 50 microns that a service gauge will not show. PAG and POE oil are huge moisture sponges when a system is open and Sloop is right about the drier too, one thing to remember is that 134A must have less then 15ppm of moisture and 330ppm of noncondensable gas "air" to meet the J2099 purity standard, I can't tell you guys how many commercial refrigeration units I service with contaminated Freon because of inadequate evacuation procedures prior to charging.
Last edited by jcman; 09-28-2015 at 04:30 PM.