Gecko Asiks

4Driver4, this helps heaps! I understand now - cheers. The struggle has been trying to picture it all in my head having never been under the valve covers before.

I just was having trouble with the fact that the seal layout is not identical because the head is flipped 180 degrees between left and right banks. Well maybe the only difference is the layout of the exhaust cam, with the sprocket being on different ends.

Yes. Lots. That's very clear - appreciate it heaps.

I did ask about that and was told that it's easy enough for them to go back in. I suppose the more individual jobs they do on an engine, the more labour they can charge compared to doing all jobs at once. Some would say that's just a typical dealer.

I thought these were only needed if the timing belt is removed ? I'll be leaving my timing belt in place now I understand what I can and can't do.

Gecko Asiks

Thanks heaps everyone for your input!

divil

Definitely sounds bad...if you/they had said nothing I might give them the benefit of the doubt but if they specifically said that it's "easy to go back in" I would find somewhere else. I mean, it is easy, it's just not cheap which is what you as the customer would care about


I wouldn't bother doing anything other than the valve cover gaskets if you're not going to remove the timing belt.

I would divide this into 2 jobs: valve cover gaskets, and everything else. Do 1 of those jobs or both. If the valve covers are your main source of leaks you'll be doing good work by just changing those. On the other hand, if you think you're going to have to pull the covers again soon to fix the other seals, then you'll be buying new valve cover gaskets again (they are a one-use item regardless of how old/new they are). You can buy them for $20 each, so it's your call - it depends on how long you will go before pulling the covers to do the other seals.

There is no way to replace the exhaust cam seals without removing the sprockets and hence the belt. The others...maybe it is possible but I wouldn't bother. The chain tensioner seals might be doable - you definitely need the special tool #3366 for the these...then, some people like to loosen or remove the camshafts, either of which would require removal of the t-belt, but I suppose it might be possible without doing that. The thing is, if you have the special locking tools, removing and refitting the belt is really not a big deal and it will speed up and simplify the other jobs for you.

As 4driver4 said, do use the locking tools if you pull the belt - there is no other way to set the timing correctly on this engine (you may read stuff to the contrary on the interwebs but trust us on this).

2.7Lturbo

Wait, u need to remove the t belt to do the chain tensioner!?, wtf, When I did my t belt I did the front seals thinking I could come back and do the valve cover and chain tensioner later


Also the front cam seals are the circle ones included in most complete kits correct? The ounces where the sprocket HAS to come off and scares the living **** out of me everytimei it pops off like a rocket!

jseklund

No, there is no need to remove the timing belt to do the cam adjuster seals, valve cover seals or rear cam seals. You do need to remove it to do the front seals. I usually do them all when I do the timing belt because it's a slight bit easier with everything apart all at once IMO.

Gecko Asiks

I tried to PM 4Driver4 on this one but his PM quota is full. Just want to clarify this, as I'm pretty much clear now on what's in store for me when I lift the valve covers on my 2.8 30v.

I thought I didn't need the crank pin & locking bar as I'm leaving the my timing belt in place and only doing the valve covers gaskets, chain tensioner gaskets/seals, rear cam seals and plugs.

So is my thinking correct - no crank pin & locking bar needed if the timing belt stays on?

Cheers.

M

divil

Correct - if you don't remove the timing belt or loosen the camshaft pulley bolts, then you won't need those tools.

But you will need the cam chain tensioner tool if you are doing the cam chain seals/gaskets.

Gecko Asiks

Sweet divil - cheers.

Got it ready to go

Esquire6

I'm in the same boat. I've been looking for a vid or pictures of what to do WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR. The write ups are and have been great. But for my simple mind I need pictures.

devinsixtyseven

Giving this thread a bump...I need to inspect, and probably replace, the passenger side exhaust cam seal (the one under the sprocket).

I asked a shop to do the timing belt maintenance, and while it was there, to replace the cam seals. To my knowledge, they did not remove the camshaft covers to do the work. As far as I'm aware right now, this is the only seal which failed after installation. The irony is I took the car in, thinking I didn't have time to do it myself, now I'm doing the whole damn thing myself anyway to access that seal.

The symptom is a major oil leak on the passenger side at the front of the engine, coating the skid plate. I have to pick up a couple tools to get in there still..

The shop warrantied the labor, but not the parts (I provided them). What do you guys figure is the likelihood that the seal was faulty, vs their labor, given the earlier statement that the cam might be damaged if the seal is replaced w/o removing the cam cover?

Also...I noticed there's a specific "headbolt tool"...it looks like a Torx, but isn't. Should I be using this tool for the cam cover bolts, and the bolts which secure the camshafts?

Thanks, guys...

-S