4Driver4

How far off is the crank? If it's just a few degrees and the cams are locked in place, you should be able to move it back. If it's way off, pull the cams out so that the valves close, then turn the crank back in insert the locking pin.

jseklund

4Driver,
Thanks.

I am going to assume way off, because I don't want to mess up any more than I already have. I have one cam out right now, and I'll neet to pull the second cam anyway because I'm going to go back in to replace the foot on the tensioner. I was going to re-use the tensioner because I couldn't get it for less than $400 (which I don't have) but then I found a guy online selling the plastic feet for $60 - so I ordered them and will replace the feet.

So, when I pull the cams, and they're both out, the valves will close - and I just turn the crank until I can insert the pin? Or is there some way of knowing when I've turned it to the correct position?

I'm not sure I understand what exactly happens inside the engine when you turn the crank - this is obviously as far into an engine as I've ever been....sorry if I'm missing something stupid.

Your help so far has been INVALUABLE though - thanks so much.

2.7Lturbo

with the cams out the valves close and you can freely turn the crak till you can get the lock pin in (which is TDC)

4Driver4

Yes/no.
Yes - with the cams out, the valves close, which gets them out of harm's way.
No - one just turning until the pin drops. There is a mark on the harmonic balancer (front pulley) that aligns with a mark on the front plastic engine cover that shows when the crank is at TDC.

When you turn the crank, the pistons go up and down. If the cam belt (timing belt) is in place, the valves also open. At the top of their stroke, the pistons occupy the same space that the open valves do. Therefore, you can either have a piston at the top of its stroke *or* you can have a valve open. If you have both, you have a collision. That's why timing is so critical.

jseklund

Ok, so I need to put the harmonic balancer back on the crank shaft (which I've taken of) and line the mark back up - which makes be believe the harmonic balancer will only fit on the pulley in one position? Is this correct?

If so, this is no big deal.

I just got back from Audi. I need the viscous fan bracket (it was a little warped when I took it off - I think the last mechanic must have wrenched on it) and I ordered it on Monday. I go in, and the parts guy gives me the accessory belt tensioner. I say, no, I need the idler pulley or viscous fan pulley, which is part of a bracket. He then shows me something else, and I say, no. He prints a drawing, I point out the part to him, tell him the number on the drawing, and have him order it. I go in today to pick it up and he ordered the viscous fan coupling. Now he wants another $80 to order the right part ($100 more than online)....so I've been set back a few days anyway.

Sorry to digress...This hole thing sounds much easier with your help. I *think* I'm getting it now. I'll never do it without the pin again....

4Driver4

Yes and yes.
Black plastic guard and then the balancer...which only goes on one way.

FWIW, I've never removed the balancer from the crank sprocket. I leave all those little PITA allen bolts in place and just remove the 12 pt 24 mm center bolt. Gotta check/change the crank seal anyway.

jseklund

Yes, I just realized that about the crank seal - how do I remove that bold from the shaft? Just put the locking pin in and turn?

Also, I hope I'm not going to the well one too many times with you, but you have been such a help - I want to ask a question about the camshafts.

I'm going to pull the driver's side cams again. The intake cam has some scoring on it that I don't like and I've decided that I will most likely replace that part too. Around the caps and journals (I think that's what the part is called where the cams sit in the engine) have been ground down by the rough surface of the cam shaft it seems.

I'm considering either machining or buying new caps. Do you have any thoughts on what I should do about the journals inside the head? Just grind them smooth? I know I'd have to be VERY careful about metal dust being left in the engine....

Again, thanks for the help...I owe you BIG time. I hope I can repay the favor sometime, somehow...

4Driver4

Once you get the pin installed, the big bolt comes out with a big breaker bar. Make sure you have the pin in tight! I like to install the pin, try to turn the engine back and forth, and recheck the pin for tight.

Your cam issue sounds scary...like oil starvation. Is the engine sludged?
The cam caps (yes, that is the correct name) are installed at the factory and then the head is bored for the cam. If the caps or the journals on the head are damaged (usually material transfer to the cam), the head needs to come off so that they can be rebored. Yikes. Better off with a used head. Can you post pics of the cam and caps?

jseklund

I will post pics - I think it's pretty bad, it got my attention. At any rate, I found a place online that sells the entire head with the cams and caps for $450. They aren't new of course - but they're remachined and they look to be done well from what I'm reading. I am looking at www.headsonly.com

As for the oil starvation....that's my thought. The other head looks pristine, but the driver's side head has some varnish on the inside but nothing I would call sludge just yet. I use amsoil and change the oil every 10,000 miles on this car - but this entire timing belt thing has been long overdue. The car has been leaking oil for years, and the audi dealership has charged thousands to correct and never gotten it done. I kind of took over maintaining the car about 2-3 years ago, but it wasn't due for a timing belt. I replaced the cam seals and valve cover gasket ...but that didn't do anything.

There was oil all over the front of the engine when I got it all apart. After spraying it with engine cleaner 4-5X I finally have most of it cleaned, but it's everywhere. The camshaft seals looked to be pretty dried out, but I didn't see anything that was a smoking gun for an oil leak. It was hard to tell since there was so much oil. My guess is still the dried out seals...

So, my thought is that the oil was leaking badly and not coating that shaft somehow...maybe that's were the bad seal was? I don't know, but I'm thinking I am going to order the new head and just replace the entire thing. I'm a bit nervous, as this timing belt job was obviously just beyond my reach (which I'm learning and stretching for) - but this looks like it may make things much bigger....I have no idea how to get the head off. I want to get the car up again because it's my mom's main car and it's already been down for almost a week. I'm going to have to order the head, ship it, and then put it in. I'm thinking it will be down another week just in the waiting for parts....nevermind my learning curve on this thing...

Peter Badore

Did you change the plastic "thingy" called the suction pump? Clogged suction pumps cause the engine to develop high internal oil vapor pressure that leads to "unfixable" oil leaks. Don't ask the BMW shop that I help out with Audi problems how many times they changed leaking cam cover gaskets and oil seals before learning to always replace the clog prone suction pumps. Also I think 10,000 miles is too long for an oil change on the 2.7l Audi biturbo. You should look at at the small internal oil passageways that can become clogged leading to oil starvation.
And US fuels probably still have too much sulfur in them that contaminates the engine oil.