camshaft pos sensor bank 1 problem
05-31-2019, 02:44 PM
#1
camshaft pos sensor bank 1 problem
A few weeks ago, I had an ignition problem that turned out to be my Ignition control module. I replaced both modules and the car had ran fine till the other day. I noticed an stumble @ idle and I read my codes and I got a P1338, camshaft sensor bank 1. I purchased two so can replace both. I replaced bank 1 and the car is still having idle issues and the same code.
I have no idea of how to problem solve this as I was sure the sensor replacement was going to fix the problem.
Where and how do I start to chase this problem???
Thank you!
I have no idea of how to problem solve this as I was sure the sensor replacement was going to fix the problem.
Where and how do I start to chase this problem???
Thank you!
06-03-2019, 07:26 AM
#3
Georgeb944,
Thank you for the help!!! This may sound like a dumb question, but on my 3 wire cam position sensor, which wire do I put the jumper into? I know very little about electricity so thank you for the help!
I know one is hot or red, the other two ? So, the video says red is not connected to anything. I' assuming that I need to use one of the two wires with no charge to jump, correct. Or does it matter which of the two wires I jump?
Thank you for the help!!! This may sound like a dumb question, but on my 3 wire cam position sensor, which wire do I put the jumper into? I know very little about electricity so thank you for the help!
I know one is hot or red, the other two ? So, the video says red is not connected to anything. I' assuming that I need to use one of the two wires with no charge to jump, correct. Or does it matter which of the two wires I jump?
06-03-2019, 06:32 PM
#4
Wow, Thanks for the help...
I'll figure it out like I always do, & then....when someone has a similar problem, I'll actually help them out!
Isn't that a ****ing concept?
I'll figure it out like I always do, & then....when someone has a similar problem, I'll actually help them out!
Isn't that a ****ing concept?
Last edited by Osmosis; 06-03-2019 at 06:35 PM.
09-14-2019, 09:33 AM
#5
This car is driving me nuts! I really need some help and/or direction.
This problem started in April when I returned home from hazmat training. I noticed a stumble around 2000 rpms while driving on the freeway @ 60mph. I changed all coil packs, plugs, no change. I was thinking spark, fuel, air. No codes. I then swapped out coil packs and the problem resolved for 3 weeks. Then, a new problem with code P0341, p1338. So I swapped out my Camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. No change. Then, I swapped my bank A with bank B camshaft sensors. No change so it's not the sensor. I still got theP0341 code.
Since then, I changed my ECU to the stock ECU, no changes.
I exposed the passengers side valve train to find no obvious damage to the chain tensioners, plastic pads the chain rides on were in tact. 16 rollers between exhaust & intake with notches on the cams lining up.
I ran my VCDS Lite which did not show me much. However, I was able to look at the camshafts in relation to each other. I know that they should be the same while the engine is running. They were not in sync, different values were observed while the car was running.
I made a jumper from the bad camshaft position sensor and checked the voltage with KOEO and KOE- running. One wire was ground, one was battery power - 11.58, and the signal wire read 5v while the car was running and with key on engine off. I put my ohm tester on the signal wire with the audible beep and when the car was running, I would get an intermittent beep as the signal wire grounds momentary for the signal.
In regards to the camshaft position sensors, I followed Rollerton's advise. Unplugged bank 1 and drove it, then plugged it back in, no changes. I cleared the codes, no changes.
Then, I unplugged bankA and B Camshaft position sensors, car would not start.
I replaced the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, no change. This find is kind of interesting....
When I checked the voltage to the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, I found the ground wire, and both signal and voltage supply wires , voltage supply wire and signal wire both have 2.48v. This with Key on,engine off AND key on, engine running. I ran the Ohm meter with the audible beep when it was grounded and I got no intermittent beeping on the signal wire when the car was running.
Consequently, I'm not working right now due to rotator cuff surgery.....Which SUCKS in itself! And I just had a second surgery to my hand. Messed up thumb due to a judo injury 25 years ago. I ignored years ago which is now causing me pain, so I had the fixed. Makes it hard to type. Kids are bummed as I can't play video games for another month
So, since I am not able to work right now, funds are tight so for now, I can not afford to purchase VCDS for me till next year when I get back to work.
I am busting my **** to get my car running. I have an F350 truck, but it's really hard to drive with a messed up L shoulder and a cast on my R arm, hence, I'm not driving for another month
Anyways, wondering if anyone has any thoughts how to resolve this issue my A6 is having?
My current thought is to remove both valve covers to make sure both cylinder heads camshafts are mechanically correct. Possibly could be bank A's camshaft tensioner is defective. I did test this with a test wire & I can hear it clicking...but maybe the tensioner is weak?
To it's not the sensor. I still got theP0341 code.
Since then, I changed my ECU to the stock ECU, no changes.
I exposed the passengers side valve train to find no obvious damage to the chain tensioners, plastic pads the chain rides on were in tact. 16 rollers between exhaust & intake with notches on the cams lining up.
I ran my VCDS Lite which did not show me much. However, I was able to look at the camshafts in relation to each other. I know that they should be the same while the engine is running. They were not in sync, different values were observed while the car was running.
I made a jumper from the bad camshaft position sensor and checked the voltage with KOEO and KOE- running. One wire was ground, one was battery power - 11.58, and the signal wire read 5v while the car was running and with key on engine off. I put my ohm tester on the signal wire with the audible beep and when the car was running, I would get an intermittent beep as the signal wire grounds momentary for the signal.
In regards to the camshaft position sensors, I followed Rollerton's advise. Unplugged bank 1 and drove it, then plugged it back in, no changes. I cleared the codes, no changes.
Then, I unplugged bankA and B Camshaft position sensors, car would not start.
I replaced the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, no change. This find is kind of interesting....
When I checked the voltage to the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, I found the ground wire, and both signal and voltage supply wires , voltage supply wire and signal wire both have 2.48v. This with Key on,engine off AND key on, engine running. I ran the Ohm meter with the audible beep when it was grounded and I got no intermittent beeping on the signal wire when the car was running.
Possibly could be bank A's camshaft tensioner is defective. I did test this with a test wire & I can hear it clicking...but maybe the tensioner is weak?
This problem started in April when I returned home from hazmat training. I noticed a stumble around 2000 rpms while driving on the freeway @ 60mph. I changed all coil packs, plugs, no change. I was thinking spark, fuel, air. No codes. I then swapped out coil packs and the problem resolved for 3 weeks. Then, a new problem with code P0341, p1338. So I swapped out my Camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. No change. Then, I swapped my bank A with bank B camshaft sensors. No change so it's not the sensor. I still got theP0341 code.
Since then, I changed my ECU to the stock ECU, no changes.
I exposed the passengers side valve train to find no obvious damage to the chain tensioners, plastic pads the chain rides on were in tact. 16 rollers between exhaust & intake with notches on the cams lining up.
I ran my VCDS Lite which did not show me much. However, I was able to look at the camshafts in relation to each other. I know that they should be the same while the engine is running. They were not in sync, different values were observed while the car was running.
I made a jumper from the bad camshaft position sensor and checked the voltage with KOEO and KOE- running. One wire was ground, one was battery power - 11.58, and the signal wire read 5v while the car was running and with key on engine off. I put my ohm tester on the signal wire with the audible beep and when the car was running, I would get an intermittent beep as the signal wire grounds momentary for the signal.
In regards to the camshaft position sensors, I followed Rollerton's advise. Unplugged bank 1 and drove it, then plugged it back in, no changes. I cleared the codes, no changes.
Then, I unplugged bankA and B Camshaft position sensors, car would not start.
I replaced the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, no change. This find is kind of interesting....
When I checked the voltage to the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, I found the ground wire, and both signal and voltage supply wires , voltage supply wire and signal wire both have 2.48v. This with Key on,engine off AND key on, engine running. I ran the Ohm meter with the audible beep when it was grounded and I got no intermittent beeping on the signal wire when the car was running.
Consequently, I'm not working right now due to rotator cuff surgery.....Which SUCKS in itself! And I just had a second surgery to my hand. Messed up thumb due to a judo injury 25 years ago. I ignored years ago which is now causing me pain, so I had the fixed. Makes it hard to type. Kids are bummed as I can't play video games for another month
So, since I am not able to work right now, funds are tight so for now, I can not afford to purchase VCDS for me till next year when I get back to work.I am busting my **** to get my car running. I have an F350 truck, but it's really hard to drive with a messed up L shoulder and a cast on my R arm, hence, I'm not driving for another month
Anyways, wondering if anyone has any thoughts how to resolve this issue my A6 is having?
My current thought is to remove both valve covers to make sure both cylinder heads camshafts are mechanically correct. Possibly could be bank A's camshaft tensioner is defective. I did test this with a test wire & I can hear it clicking...but maybe the tensioner is weak?
To it's not the sensor. I still got theP0341 code.
Since then, I changed my ECU to the stock ECU, no changes.
I exposed the passengers side valve train to find no obvious damage to the chain tensioners, plastic pads the chain rides on were in tact. 16 rollers between exhaust & intake with notches on the cams lining up.
I ran my VCDS Lite which did not show me much. However, I was able to look at the camshafts in relation to each other. I know that they should be the same while the engine is running. They were not in sync, different values were observed while the car was running.
I made a jumper from the bad camshaft position sensor and checked the voltage with KOEO and KOE- running. One wire was ground, one was battery power - 11.58, and the signal wire read 5v while the car was running and with key on engine off. I put my ohm tester on the signal wire with the audible beep and when the car was running, I would get an intermittent beep as the signal wire grounds momentary for the signal.
In regards to the camshaft position sensors, I followed Rollerton's advise. Unplugged bank 1 and drove it, then plugged it back in, no changes. I cleared the codes, no changes.
Then, I unplugged bankA and B Camshaft position sensors, car would not start.
I replaced the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, no change. This find is kind of interesting....
When I checked the voltage to the engine speed sensor/crankshaft position sensor, I found the ground wire, and both signal and voltage supply wires , voltage supply wire and signal wire both have 2.48v. This with Key on,engine off AND key on, engine running. I ran the Ohm meter with the audible beep when it was grounded and I got no intermittent beeping on the signal wire when the car was running.
Possibly could be bank A's camshaft tensioner is defective. I did test this with a test wire & I can hear it clicking...but maybe the tensioner is weak?
09-18-2019, 12:11 PM
#6
When you pulled the passenger side Bank 1 valve cover off, did you happen to use the tensioner compression tool to check if the tensioner was jammed/frozen? It's the tool you use to compress the tensioner so you can change the tensioner seal and halfmoon plug when they leak. If you don't have the tool, maybe you can try to pry the tensioner down with a screwdriver to see if it is free.
09-23-2019, 07:30 AM
#7
When you pulled the passenger side Bank 1 valve cover off, did you happen to use the tensioner compression tool to check if the tensioner was jammed/frozen? It's the tool you use to compress the tensioner so you can change the tensioner seal and halfmoon plug when they leak. If you don't have the tool, maybe you can try to pry the tensioner down with a screwdriver to see if it is free.
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09-27-2019, 10:16 PM
#8
georgeb944,
Thanks for the reply and info, I really appreciate it. If ya look at post 7, I kind of did what the PDF file describes. I don't have the vagcom tools, but I am getting proper voltage to both camshaft pos. sensors.
However, my Crankshaft Position sensor voltage is not making sense. I made a jumper to that connection; Ground = no voltage, both battery voltage & signal wire are reading 2.48 volts. I would expect 11-12 volts on the battery supply wire and 5 volts to the Crank signal wire...but I get 2.48v on both wires & Not sure if that is normal?
Sorry for short reply. Just had 2nd surgery in 2 months. First, shoulder, 2 weeks ago, thumb on opposite arm so typing is not easy.
Thanks again 4 the help!
Thanks for the reply and info, I really appreciate it. If ya look at post 7, I kind of did what the PDF file describes. I don't have the vagcom tools, but I am getting proper voltage to both camshaft pos. sensors.
However, my Crankshaft Position sensor voltage is not making sense. I made a jumper to that connection; Ground = no voltage, both battery voltage & signal wire are reading 2.48 volts. I would expect 11-12 volts on the battery supply wire and 5 volts to the Crank signal wire...but I get 2.48v on both wires & Not sure if that is normal?
Sorry for short reply. Just had 2nd surgery in 2 months. First, shoulder, 2 weeks ago, thumb on opposite arm so typing is not easy.
Thanks again 4 the help!
Last edited by Osmosis; 09-27-2019 at 10:19 PM.
09-28-2019, 09:40 AM
#9
Once again, thank you for the info!
Now, this PDF stated something I verified by unplugging the crankshaft sensor while the car was running, car died immediately. plugged it back in, car started fine. The info I found on youtube on how to test the crankshaft sensor was that a 2 wire generates its own voltage while the 3 wire has source 12v wire and a signal wire 5v & a ground.
PFD info:
Without a signal from the Engine Speed sensor
(RPM) sensor -G28- the engine cannot be started. If the signal from
the Engine Speed (RPM) sensor -G28- fails while the engine is
running, the engine will cut out immediately.
I replaced a new inexpensive Crankshaft position sensor with a brand new bosch just in case the cheap sensor was bad, however, No change. I will have to check the ohms on the connector in 2 weeks when I get this cast off my hand
Thank You for the help
Now, this PDF stated something I verified by unplugging the crankshaft sensor while the car was running, car died immediately. plugged it back in, car started fine. The info I found on youtube on how to test the crankshaft sensor was that a 2 wire generates its own voltage while the 3 wire has source 12v wire and a signal wire 5v & a ground.
PFD info:
Without a signal from the Engine Speed sensor
(RPM) sensor -G28- the engine cannot be started. If the signal from
the Engine Speed (RPM) sensor -G28- fails while the engine is
running, the engine will cut out immediately.
I replaced a new inexpensive Crankshaft position sensor with a brand new bosch just in case the cheap sensor was bad, however, No change. I will have to check the ohms on the connector in 2 weeks when I get this cast off my hand
Thank You for the help
Last edited by Osmosis; 09-28-2019 at 10:29 AM.
03-14-2020, 12:00 PM
#10
SO Follow UP on the cam sensor codes and causes in case anyone else has a similar problems and uses the search button.
Well, my turbos have been going out for a while. I've been running the car basically with one good turbo and it is on its way out. Leaking oil from both turbos. I was going to trade my A6 in for an SS Camaro or Challenger SRT, daughter going to college next year = best option is to rebuild the engine and turbos. I figure if I am pulling the engine, I"m going through it again since it's such a PITA to get out of the car!
I did the timing belt about 20K miles ago, maybe 25K when I rebuilt the engine 3-4 years ago. As I'm pulling the engine apart, I find about a 1/4 inch thick, 2 ft long piece of timing belt missing! I would bet this is the culprit to my cam sensor codes showing up!
Now I need to figure out which timing belt will be best and not break!!!
Any comments on timing belts? I was told to stay away from the Gates as they squeak.
Well, my turbos have been going out for a while. I've been running the car basically with one good turbo and it is on its way out. Leaking oil from both turbos. I was going to trade my A6 in for an SS Camaro or Challenger SRT, daughter going to college next year = best option is to rebuild the engine and turbos. I figure if I am pulling the engine, I"m going through it again since it's such a PITA to get out of the car!
I did the timing belt about 20K miles ago, maybe 25K when I rebuilt the engine 3-4 years ago. As I'm pulling the engine apart, I find about a 1/4 inch thick, 2 ft long piece of timing belt missing! I would bet this is the culprit to my cam sensor codes showing up!
Now I need to figure out which timing belt will be best and not break!!!
Any comments on timing belts? I was told to stay away from the Gates as they squeak.