Speedbird

Anyone having this problem?? My A6 has been parked outside overnight the last few days, and boy does it run ROUGH when first started. It's been cold, low 30's, high 20's at night.

The engine sounds much louder than usual, and shifts are kinda harsh. Is this typical of the A6 2.7T?

Thanks for any feedback.
Bill

Seattle Scott

How rough are to talking about and for how long? Does the car shake? Does it last for more than 10 seconds?

I think the synthetics have better low temperature charateristics.

I'd suspect the cold start up is just something new so it seems really odd. You should try taking the lower engine shield off and pulling into a garage, you will hear all kinds of new and loud things.

timcar

A couple of times when really cold, I felt tugs on the wheel with the steering cranked all the way like the engine might quit. Car will also hold 1st(?) gear when completely cold. Another poster said it's to make the catalytic converts fire up. I don't think what you're experiencing is unusual, as long as everything is normal within a mile or so. Though I have found it takes at least a few miles for the engine to really feel warmed up, and I'm careful not to push before then.

peterl

I didn't notice this at all last winter but have noticed a fair bit this winter. It clears up within a mile and I don't push it until it feels smooth. I've got Mobil 1 oil this year which I didn't have last winter but I doubt that is the reason.

Peter

leonardl

Re: Using Mobil 1 (0-30W), no rough sounds. Park in garage overnight.

KazooAudi

I am certainly no expert, but this does not sound normal to me. Certainly the engine soun change, depending on what exactly that is, could be based on 'normal' changes in oil at lowere temps. However, the rough running is not 'normal', no matter what anyone tells you. It is possible that your coolant temperature sensor is defective (a not uncommon problem). Ask you dealer to check/replace it. Note: in general, this does NOT store a fault code, unless the unit actually dies. It is usually reading the temperature inaccurately (causing the computer to set an incorrect fuel mixture), which the chip has no way of verifying, and thus simply being told that there is no fault code has NOT checked things. The only way to check is for the mechanically to actually compare the sensor's cold temperature reading with the "real" temperature - and it's usually easier to just replace it. BTW, on the 2.8, this usually results in an engine that will not start, and there is a TSB on it (for the 2.8 only).