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This last replacement lasted the longest I was so sure I would no longer be plagued with this tiny leak always at the same spot. The pyramid part of the gasket that’s between the cam chain tensioner and the camseal. It’s circled in red in the picture below.
I did an experiment last time. After I replaced my PCV system with Genuine Audi parts I put a Fel Pro gasket on bank 1 and a cheap gasket on Bank 2.
Sure enough bank 2 leaked on the first drive. The Fel pro stayed dry. So I replaced bank 2 with a Fel Pro and it stayed leak free for about a month. Even on a 3 hour road trip it was dry, all good, and driving better than ever.
Last night, only 20 minutes into my drive, I heard the whistle sound I am almost certain is air leaking through that spot. The whole time the gaskets stayed sealed the whistle was gone.
I put sealant on that pyramid spot but maybe I’m not putting enough? My other theory is maybe my valve cover is not flat enough? Its always the same exact spot though as far as I can tell.
A couple other theories. My suction pump is new but it’s not genuine Audi idk how much it’s involved in the air pressure. Putting the genuine Audi PcV seemed to make a difference with engine performance.
I thought I read about an updated oil cap that is supposed to vent pressure I don’t know how to tell if I have one. I would guess I do since it seems more than just a simple cap.
Last edited by paperclips43; 10-23-2023 at 04:52 PM.
I wouldn't expect a fel pro or even a cheap one with the proper sealant applied in that corner (this is the corner that requires the RTV sealant, correct?) to leak that fast. I'd probably be grabbing a low pressure gauge (you should be able to find a cheap vacuum gauge that also goes to +15psi) and check crank case pressure, something is not right here.
I wouldn't expect a fel pro or even a cheap one with the proper sealant applied in that corner (this is the corner that requires the RTV sealant, correct?) to leak that fast. I'd probably be grabbing a low pressure gauge (you should be able to find a cheap vacuum gauge that also goes to +15psi) and check crank case pressure, something is not right here.
edit: oops I see what you meant. I deleted the part of my reply that misunderstood
So it’s not really a “corner” it’s closer to the middle of the side with the CCT. It’s between that and where a cam seal would go. On Bank 2 it’s next to the pulley and on bank 1 it would be under the intake accordion hose tube. It’s the part of the gasket that is like 2 inches thick and looks like a pyramid. Did they make any sense or did I just make it more confusing?
so i tested my crank pressure the ghetto way haha. With a tiny square piece of paper over the dipstick tube when you pull the dipstick out. When the car is running supposedly the small piece of paper should just lightly be pulled onto the hole. I know that’s not very scientific also it’s been a while since I did that test. I’ll try your method.
Last edited by paperclips43; 10-23-2023 at 05:32 PM.
I wouldn't expect a fel pro or even a cheap one with the proper sealant applied in that corner (this is the corner that requires the RTV sealant, correct?) to leak that fast. I'd probably be grabbing a low pressure gauge (you should be able to find a cheap vacuum gauge that also goes to +15psi) and check crank case pressure, something is not right here.
I wouldn't expect a fel pro or even a cheap one with the proper sealant applied in that corner (this is the corner that requires the RTV sealant, correct?) to leak that fast. I'd probably be grabbing a low pressure gauge (you should be able to find a cheap vacuum gauge that also goes to +15psi) and check crank case pressure, something is not right here.
I wouldn't expect a fel pro or even a cheap one with the proper sealant applied in that corner (this is the corner that requires the RTV sealant, correct?) to leak that fast. I'd probably be grabbing a low pressure gauge (you should be able to find a cheap vacuum gauge that also goes to +15psi) and check crank case pressure, something is not right here.
Where do you recommend tapping into to check crankcase pressure?
Follow the book on where to apply sealant when replacing valve cover gaskets. IIRC no sealant at the red arrow pic. Applying sealant where there should be none can cause leaks requiring the job to be done again. A properly resealed valve cover and cam adjuster using quality gaskets should last at least 100,000KM’s.
Ok when I redo the gaskets I’ll try not putting sealant there. I did find something wrong with my crankcase though. The directions I’ve read calls for sealant there unless I’m mistaken. But I’ll try anything at this point.
So I started following the test procedure like the directions in the link call for. What are the odds I have three broken suction pumps? I get no negative pressure from Venturi at the angle nipple on the suction pump. The one that connects to the PcV valve through an elbow hose.
Something is working Right because when I swapped over the used suction pumps to test them, when pulling off the hose at the top that connects to the brake booster, I get a loud rush of air indicating a decent amount of negative pressure is being built up in only 5-10 seconds of the car running. That’s normal right?
All three suck pumps behaved the same way before and after I cleaned them. Also I used different solvents on each pump. One break cleaner and another degreaser. Cleaned a lot of oil out of them so I would think it should be working. At least a little.
10-23-2023, 08:38 AM
I fixed my valve cover leak!…oh wait no I didn’t.
