Richard E. Woodward III

Hi, my name is Woody and I just purchased a used 2003 Audi A6 2.7t Quattro. I am hoping this was not the biggest mistake I have ever made.

I will try to keep this short, LOL. About 3 weeks ago I purchased this car which cosmetically is a beautiful car. It was meant to solve some issue. All wheel drive for snow days, something safe for us to take our 5 & 6 year old in, and I gave my oldest daughter (17) my 2004 Kia Amanta as she is heading of to college.

Now for the nightmare. I purchased this car for $4,300. After 2 days of owning it I had to have it towed to a shop that would actually work on twin turbos. Didn't know Ken Towery and Tire Discounters will not touch this engine. Stein Automotive took the care and they had to replace the auxiliary water pump and multiple cooling hoses. $1690.00 later I have the car back and it runs poorly at ideal and to my dismay is getting 11-12 miles a gallon with Premium.

The engine check light it always on and was told buy stein it's an internal sensor code that will not affect the engine but would be very expensive to replace. They had asked if the timing belt had been replaced and I was told buy the person that sold it to me it was done at 96K miles. The car has 137K now. Truthfully with all these issue I am 99% sure he was lieing. Now during ideal the car is rough and the engine check light will start to blink. After reading some of your threads I believe this is caused buy the coils. Probably getting wet from the radiator fluid. I ordered 6 of the OEM "D" coils and Bosch Super plugs.

Is this what is causing my horrid fuel economy, the smell of the engine at ideal, and will it fix the rough ideal? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Perhaps I should change my forum name to SUCKER!!!

BillBoost37

Please list out what the shop wrote on the invoice of what they did to the car. Also a quick description of why you needed it towed would be great.

N_Jay

Also, where are you as someone might have a suggestion for a trusted shop.

clancy

This is a great car to drive, safe and fun. And, reliable, assuming you get it squared away and keep up with normal maintenance expected on a sophisticated German auto that is over ten years old. You need to find an independent Audi shop and not a generalist type of indy shop.

Richard E. Woodward III

This is from the Service ticket:

Inspected and found the auxiliary water pump under the intake manifold has a rear plastic section blown off. The plastic is very brittle.

After removing the intake manifold it was found that the coolant tubes going into the rear of the front timing cover are also leaking.

Removed the tubes and cleaned the corrosion from the openings. Installed new seals using sealant as well due to the corroded metal openings.

PN: 0 392 020 073 Auxilary Water Pump
PN: 06E-115-446 Oil Filter housing SE
PN: 078-121-082E Cooling Hose
PN: 078-121-082H Cooling Hose
PN: 078-129-717N Intake Gasket
PN: N90380002 O-Ring
PN: WHT-006-407 O-Ring
PN: N 905 607 01 Water Pump O-Ring (X3)

The Following items were noted after the coolant leak repair:

- The engine ran rough and set codes for cylinder misfires on cylinders #1, 2, and 3.

This was attributed to a sticking EGR valve on the right bank of Cylinders.

Installed a new right bank EGR Valve.


I was driving to work was about 10 to 15 miles from my house when the Coolant alarm and symbol came up on my instrument panel. Temp was staying right in the middle. I exited the express way and when I can to a stop light smoke (radiator fluid) was poring out of the car. That is when I had it towed.

Richard E. Woodward III

Sorry I am not sure what your asking me?

One of my good friends knows of a person that only works on European Cars and Bikes. I am trying to get him to come over and look at my Audi and my 2009 Aprilia Mana 850. Other than that i don't really have anyone to take it to yet. Was going to try and do the Coils and Plugs myself.

Richard E. Woodward III

That is what I am hoping for. Stein is a foreign car specialist. There garage is full of Porsche, BMW, and Mercedes. I think I was the only Audi.

meternerd

Being new to Audi, you may not know....you HAVE TO use the correct anti-freeze for Audi engines. Regular green stuff will destroy most of the plastic parts in the cooling system. Also, use the correct transmission fluid. Also, you need a code reader/resetter. Just throwing parts at it can be expensive and frustrating.

BillBoost37

Also you want to vacuum fill the coolant in order to ensure all air is out of the system.

Ok.. A quick search on cylinder location to see if 1, 2, 3 are all on the same side gave me mixed results. I believe all three are on one side. That can mean that something silly like the cam chain tensioner is not working properly could be at fault. It's not that bad of a swap on a 2.8L, not sure on the 2.7.

What I'm getting at is if it's running bad when you pick it up with a $1700 tab, I'd be asking some serious questions. A good mechanic finds out why it's not running right and either fixes it or brings you up to speed and you decide fix or not.

Sounds like when you bought it, it was running find. Then it had a coolant leak, which isn't uncommon for the type of water pump used on these cars.

clancy

If Stein is a "foreign car specialist" but not an Audi specialist then you will be paying Stein to learn Audi and your car in particular. This is almost always more costly than finding an Audi specialist. And I mean one who is very familiar with the C5 series and with the 2.7 turbo motor. I do not mean the Audi dealer, they will usually be more interested in newer cars.

Also, as suggested you need to purchase a VAGCOM code reader like the RossTech one advertised on this site. It is the best one and well worth the $300 +/- cost if you intend to fix the car yourself. As stated by "masternerd" throwing parts at this car will be wasteful.