N_Jay

I put new rotors and pads in the back.

I was going to change the fluid, but could not get the screen off the reservoir (and the fluid looks really clear and good) so I figured I would just do a thorough bleed topping up the reservoir and call it a day.

I pushed (manual bleed) over a cup from each of the rear brakes, being carful not to let any air in at the master cylinder.

The left side a got a good solid stream, but on the right side I never got rid of all the bubbles but chalked it up air coming around the bleeder screw threads.

Now, I wonder if I let a little air in, because the brakes don't feel quite the way (I seem to remember) they felt before.

Of course before the brakes were bad, and I did not put a lot of time driving the car, so I might be misremembering how they felt .

Just wondering if there is something I missed, like adjusting the parking brake or something.

blink

Spend the twelve dollars and get the manual hand pump brake bleeder that harbor freight sells. I had the same problem on my rears. Just be sure to have fluid in the bleeder cup, and don't over do it on the psi.

N_Jay

Is that a suction bleeder or pressure bleeder?

indoor

I don't have any experience with manual bleeding, but even with the pressure bleeder the rear right bleeds the slowest. My guess is it's because it is the farthest caliper from master cylinder. The fronts go really fast.

The screen in the reservoir comes out with a screwdriver(flat); pry it up while you hold the reservoir with the other hand.

I'm not 100% sure but I don't think you would feel a difference if you got air on the right rear line, since the rear brakes don't do much in street driving. And each line is independent when it comes out of the reservoir.

But I would get a pressure bleeder and re-bleed just that rear side. It's worth the $50, or there are some DIY's to build a bleeder from parts for cheaper.

N_Jay

Actually the rears do a lot on most cars for normal street driving.
Almost every car these days is biased towards the back for light braking to minimize nose dive and provide a gentle feel to light brake applications.

The fronts do the majority of braking when brakes are applied hard to prevent rear end lock-up (Less of a problem now that we have ABS.

tester123

The easiest way to bleed without getting air back in is to simply attach a tight fitting foot-long hose over the bleeder nipple. I use a clear one so I can see bubbles etc.

You don't even have to worry about tighten-pump-loosen-tighten sequence. Attach hose, open bleeder screw with a wrench, Just pump and watch the reservoir. When you think fluid is ok, just let off brake, go and tighten the bleeder screw and that's it. (yea, you loose a little fluid stuck in hose but for the convenience, you can't complain)

It works! Why? Because there will be fluid in the hose and that gets sucked back (just a little) and any air backing up only goes about 2 or 3 inches into the hose and not the caliper.

I flushed the entire system (about 3 cans of fluid to get everything completely clear and top off) using this technique. My brakes have no air and brake perfectly.

Try this trick next time and you'll be amazed at how simple this can be.

N_Jay

That is basically what I did, putting the end on a bottle to make a trap.
The problem was the bottle lid was tight enough to build up pressure, so I gave it a squeeze so it would have some vacuum.

I figured the few bubbles was air being pulled in around the bleeder screw threads.

Maybe this is the way the brakes are supposed to feel?

tester123

no need for vacuum. I just clip it to the drain mug. just make sure the hose is tight fitting over the nipple. that's all there is to it.

clancy

At this point I would go back to the beginning. Use a Motive or similar pressure bleeder attached to the main reservoir. It you cannot get the screen out then just ignore it. The only reason to remove the screen is to be able to suck out old fluid. Skip this step. Put a can or two of new fluid of a different color into the Motive and follow their directions. It will take a few more minutes to push all the old fluid through to the right rear but so what? You will end up with new fluid and clean lines.

You tried to do it the cheap and quick way first. It did not work. Now go ahead and do it the thorough way. Sometimes the quick way works. But if it does't then do it the right way. If this doesn't get the caliper working correctly then you have another issue.

N_Jay

The brakes are 'working" fine, just not as firm as I 'thought' they were before the rotors and pads.

Also, the first press after having the parking brake set and released seems a little further (why I was thinking there was a parking adjustment step I might have missed)

Someday I might get a pressure bleeder, as they seem to be more important now that everything has ABS.

I may just get a suction bleeder and pull another few OZ out and see what happens.

Maybe I am being too picky.

EDIT:
OK, I am being too cheap.
Seems those old $12 suction gun bleeders are now $29 and the Motive is only $53.
Besides I have brake fluid flushes coming up on 2 other cars.