Rear brake and rotor replacement
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Rear brake and rotor replacement
So it's time for me to change out my current rotors and pads...the alarm light came on and I just took off the wheel and noticed VERY little pad left.
So I was wondering what people recommned? BTW, I have a 2000 A6 2.8Q and the car is just used for standard commuting. Also, the rear rotors are: 4B0 615 601.
Ideally would be looking to buy a rotors&pads combo and have bought from both ECS and purems in the past.
Thanks
So I was wondering what people recommned? BTW, I have a 2000 A6 2.8Q and the car is just used for standard commuting. Also, the rear rotors are: 4B0 615 601.
Ideally would be looking to buy a rotors&pads combo and have bought from both ECS and purems in the past.
Thanks
#2
AudiWorld Super User
i just did mune couple of months ago and have no real recomendations as I don't know much about what brands are good and are not good .. although i would certainly esomend you ask for low dust pads as it is a pain with oe compunds ....
anyway i have the same car and have a couple of tips .
1. the rear rotor comes off without removing the carrier , just remove the caliper , hang it and knock off the rotor if it isn't seized on that is ...
don't forget you have to wind in the rear calipers with a special tool that most auto suppliers will lend to you .. if it gets stuck while winding in have a helper sit in the car and press the brakes to slowly push it out again .. wind it back in etc . till it frees up and wind it all the way in .it is very common for rear calipers to be seized like this so be patient ..
if your cracking it to rebleed don't put more than about 15 lbs on the bleed screw .. or tap it wigh a full socket or wrench not a line wrench .. i usually put the wrench on and loosen it by hitting the wrench gently with a hammer ... if it doesn't go use a wire brush on the bleeder and some heat and try again ..
if you do have to remove the caliper for any reason may as well replace the flex lines to the caliper.
i have drilled rotors in the back ... not sure what they are but they were relatively cheap and stopped the car ..
anyway i have the same car and have a couple of tips .
1. the rear rotor comes off without removing the carrier , just remove the caliper , hang it and knock off the rotor if it isn't seized on that is ...
don't forget you have to wind in the rear calipers with a special tool that most auto suppliers will lend to you .. if it gets stuck while winding in have a helper sit in the car and press the brakes to slowly push it out again .. wind it back in etc . till it frees up and wind it all the way in .it is very common for rear calipers to be seized like this so be patient ..
if your cracking it to rebleed don't put more than about 15 lbs on the bleed screw .. or tap it wigh a full socket or wrench not a line wrench .. i usually put the wrench on and loosen it by hitting the wrench gently with a hammer ... if it doesn't go use a wire brush on the bleeder and some heat and try again ..
if you do have to remove the caliper for any reason may as well replace the flex lines to the caliper.
i have drilled rotors in the back ... not sure what they are but they were relatively cheap and stopped the car ..
#3
I have a few questions. First, you say the alarm came on. The rears are not monitored so that's the FRONT. I'll trust you have looked at the rear and need pads.
Next, do you need rear rotors? After two sets of pads an 70k miles ish, mine has worn almost zero. bout 1/8 of the wear limit allowed by Audi. Sure oyu need rotors?
Finally, i see no advantage for anything but track driving to fancy rotors. In fact drilled and slotted rotors simply mean more pad wear and more opportunity for rotor failure.
As to pads, OEM are actually a very good compromise. But Hawk HPS are generally felt to be a bit better still - more aggressive anyway.
Rather than throw money at rotors (unless you really need them) disassemble the calipers, lube the guide pins, and flush your brake fluid.
G
Next, do you need rear rotors? After two sets of pads an 70k miles ish, mine has worn almost zero. bout 1/8 of the wear limit allowed by Audi. Sure oyu need rotors?
Finally, i see no advantage for anything but track driving to fancy rotors. In fact drilled and slotted rotors simply mean more pad wear and more opportunity for rotor failure.
As to pads, OEM are actually a very good compromise. But Hawk HPS are generally felt to be a bit better still - more aggressive anyway.
Rather than throw money at rotors (unless you really need them) disassemble the calipers, lube the guide pins, and flush your brake fluid.
G
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
definetly need both pads and rotors
So I did not know that the rears did not have any monitoring assocaited with them. However, after taking the rear tires off, I do know that my pads are nearly gone and my rotors have not been changed in at least 80,000 miles.
As for the front pads, I did change these and the rotors about 20,000 miles ago and have plenty of life in them.
I'll take a look at the Hawk HPS and will look for OE type type rotors...however any recomendations on them?
My current front rotors are Zimmermann.
As for the front pads, I did change these and the rotors about 20,000 miles ago and have plenty of life in them.
I'll take a look at the Hawk HPS and will look for OE type type rotors...however any recomendations on them?
My current front rotors are Zimmermann.
#5
Email replied, shoot me back some specifics and we'll go from there!
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Phone: 1.800.924.5172 - Sales: 8:30am to MIDNIGHT EST | Customer Service 8:30am - 8pm EST
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#7
AudiWorld Super User
I had 350,000km on my original rotors .. and I actually could have gone further .. but rotors these days are chea enough to be throw away when you consider the cost of the car ... so i threw new ones on .. They are drilled but i didn't get them for that .. they work fine ..
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#9
oh, and both harbor freight and ECS sell the (same) rear brale caliper tool to screw in pistons. Its a nice kit, in a blow-mold box, with tons of adapters so it will do everything from your audi to the trabant you dont knwo you'll buy
G
G
#10
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Well I said I had at least 80K on the rotors, I bought the car with ~64K miles on it and have put on over 80K miles, so it may be that the car has almost ~150K on the rear rotors, so thought it was just prudent to get new ones thrown on.