Kris Hansen

this is so you can lock the cams together with the bar, then loosen teh pulleys to allow the belt to fit PERFECTLY, and allow you to keep the cams at TDC, and move the crank slightly to get the crank to also be at TDC, without moving the belt or cams..

Kris Hansen

I didn't feel like waiting, had the parts in hand already... It was pretty easy, luckily.

4Driver4

Even if you elect to skip the crank seal, it's much easier to remove the center crank bolt than all the little 8 mm bolts.

Eric 2.7

Yeah, but for an amateur, it's nice to know exactly where that crank is.

StoneMan

Ah. I see. I'm trying to accumulate info for when I do this job on the S4 soon

JimR

Lots'o'links in the post.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/360657.phtml">A6 2.8q AHA Timing Belt PM parts list and reference links.</a></li></ul>

QCRAZY

That statement makes no sense at all. If you did that, it would answer why your cam timing is off.

4Driver4

I'm not saying that the last person who did the job messed it up, but it's possible. My point is that when you skip the tools, you base the accuaracy of your job on the accuracy of the last job. If I did this job without tools, my replacement would be the same as it is now rather than corrected.

I'm not sure what you mean by your question about which is off. If you set the cams to TDC, the crank is off; if you set the crank to TDC, the cams are off. The cams are positioned correctly in relation to each other. The notch on the crank pulley is correct; when the crank lock tool is inserted the crank mark lines up correctly. The difference in the marks is not a full tooth, so I'd rule out a belt jump.

But yes, the post is intended to show the importance of using the tools to do the job right.

QCRAZY

I agree if someone just blindly follows the steps posted by someone else. But one needs to know what they are doing when attempting this job.

If one started this job w/o the tools, i.e. moved the crank to TDC, it would be clear that the cams didn't line up correctly just looking at it. Someone should notice this and realize that they need to re-align the "system".

If someone attempting this job wouldn't recognize this problem than I would agrue they have no business attempting this job. I would further say that if someone doesn't know how to fix the problem you are having; they shouldn't do this job...at least alone. Things can go wrong doing this job.

I think the bigger problem is that people may be attempting this job that really shouldn't be because of the posted procedures. If someone hasn't done this before they should do this with someone with experience the first time to really learn WHY they are doing what they are doing. &lt;STEPS OFF SOAPBOX&gt;


As to which is off. If you don't know what actually happened you have to figure out which component is off/out of phase. Both cam sprockets could be off the same amount, i.e. they got tightened down in the wrong position on the cams (if the cam bolts were loosened).

Or the cam sprockets are in the correct position on the cams and the crank has turned out of position (i.e. hopped a tooth).

Since the cams and sprockets aren't keyed you actually have to figure out which moved out of phase.

For example, if the cam and cam sprockets are already out of phase and you "re-align" everything by loosen the cam bolts and moving the crank (and then re-tighten the cam bolts). The marks are all "correct" but the cams are still out of phase at TDC since the actual cam didn't move in relation to the cam sprocket. You could actually make it worse!! :-(

You need to figure out which moved before you can align it correctly. This is why I'm against loosening the cam bolts unless completely necessary for the procedure.


Also, if you are out less than a tooth you should check the mark on the flywheel/carrier plate to make sure that the VB cover mark isn't off a little.

4Driver4

You can't figure out which is out of phase. What is important is that they are out of phase with each other. How it happened is not something we need to know to fix it.

Assuming that the timing belt is not being replaced and we just want to fix the problem:
Lock the crank.
With the belt in place, loosen and free the cams.
Use the tool to align the cams.
With both tools in place, tighten the bolts.

Here's one way to repalce the belt:
Lock the crank in position - the cam tool won't fit but the cams are still very close to TDC.
Remove the belt.
Using the tool, align the cams.
Loosen cam bolts and free cam sprockets so that they freewheel on the cam shaft.
Do whatever work you are doing - seals, water pump, etc.
Install the belt (I like to actually remove one of the cam sprockets to install the belt - it's much easier then fighting the belt on).
With both tools in place and the cam sprockets still loose, allow the tensioner to take up the slack in the belt.
Tighten cam bolts and remove the tool.