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C6 4.2 Rough Idle Accompanied with Diesel knocking

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Old 02-01-2018, 02:15 PM
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Default C6 4.2 Rough Idle Accompanied with Diesel knocking

I have issues with my recently acquired 2006 Audi A6 4.2. I am ready to pull motor but have the littlest clue as to what to then. Please, help!
I have a rough idle with a diesel/wood knocking sound when I run my motor at any temperature. From initial start and end. I have replaced or cleaned the following parts:
1 -Plugs (NGK)
2 -Cleaned the injectors (now have three distinct streams vs a sprayish-three stream) Each injector was able to open and close when applying 12 volt to clean.
3 -Replaced Coils with new ones (Spectra) and also replaced the coil harness which fixed cylinder 7 misfire
4 -Took off Intake manifold and cleaned thoroughly and even lubed the intake flap because it was really "sticky"in movement by hand. Now it moves freely and smoothly. Hardly any build up but still cleaned it down. When I had the manifold off, i was able to see the intake valves and hardly any build up and the valves did not look to be bent.
5 -Put lucas fuel additive into a near empty tank
6 - Changed the oil (was really dark but not metal residue or debris) to 0W-40 and filter was changed.I also added lucas oil additive
7 - Changed the fuel filter
8 - Found that the fuel pump had a 10A fuse rather the 20A described by the fuse panel of the passenger side and changed it to 20A
9 -I changed out the MAF sensor as well.
10 - New Battery

After doing all that, it runs a little better but still rough and with the diesel sound.
Here are the codes I am getting now:
Chassis Type: 4F (4F0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 07 08 09 0E 0F 15 16 17 19 36 37 42 46 47 4F 52
53 55 56 61 62 65 72 77

VIN: WAUEL74F76N086260 Mileage: 208120km-129319miles

00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
07-Control Head -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
0E-Media Player 1 -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: Malfunction 0010
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 Faults Found:
16440 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S2: Heating Circuit
P0056 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit



16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 -


16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent


16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent


18061 - Please check DTC Memory of ABS Controller
P1653 - 008 -


18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1
P1672 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground

18308 - Coolant Fan Control 2
P1900 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground

16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 001 - Misfire Detected


16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 001 - Misfire Detected
Old 02-01-2018, 04:21 PM
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You should post an audio clip so that we can help. The timing chain guides and tensioners are a real weakness on these cars.
Old 02-02-2018, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinGary
You should post an audio clip so that we can help. The timing chain guides and tensioners are a real weakness on these cars.
I will do that as soon as I get home. Sorry everyone for not having that!
Old 02-02-2018, 07:28 AM
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The sound I get is very similar to the one in this video:

I still will post a video of mine tonight.
Old 02-02-2018, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig Cringston
I have issues with my recently acquired 2006 Audi A6 4.2. I am ready to pull motor but have the littlest clue as to what to then. Please, help!
I have a rough idle with a diesel/wood knocking sound when I run my motor at any temperature. From initial start and end. I have replaced or cleaned the following parts:
1 -Plugs (NGK)
2 -Cleaned the injectors (now have three distinct streams vs a sprayish-three stream) Each injector was able to open and close when applying 12 volt to clean.
3 -Replaced Coils with new ones (Spectra) and also replaced the coil harness which fixed cylinder 7 misfire
4 -Took off Intake manifold and cleaned thoroughly and even lubed the intake flap because it was really "sticky"in movement by hand. Now it moves freely and smoothly. Hardly any build up but still cleaned it down. When I had the manifold off, i was able to see the intake valves and hardly any build up and the valves did not look to be bent.
5 -Put lucas fuel additive into a near empty tank
6 - Changed the oil (was really dark but not metal residue or debris) to 0W-40 and filter was changed.I also added lucas oil additive
7 - Changed the fuel filter
8 - Found that the fuel pump had a 10A fuse rather the 20A described by the fuse panel of the passenger side and changed it to 20A
9 -I changed out the MAF sensor as well.
10 - New Battery

After doing all that, it runs a little better but still rough and with the diesel sound.
Here are the codes I am getting now:
Chassis Type: 4F (4F0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 07 08 09 0E 0F 15 16 17 19 36 37 42 46 47 4F 52
53 55 56 61 62 65 72 77

VIN: WAUEL74F76N086260 Mileage: 208120km-129319miles

00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
07-Control Head -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
0E-Media Player 1 -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: Malfunction 0010
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10 Faults Found:
16440 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S2: Heating Circuit
P0056 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit



16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 -


16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent


16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent


18061 - Please check DTC Memory of ABS Controller
P1653 - 008 -


18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1
P1672 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground

18308 - Coolant Fan Control 2
P1900 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground

16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 001 - Misfire Detected


16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 001 - Misfire Detected
This all sounds very similar to my 2006 4.2

I've just (got my car back on Thursday) had my chains done and it now idles silky smooth and is quiet (apart from the exhaust note).

It's an expensive job, £800 - £900 using genuine parts plus labour and who ever does it really needs to get the timing tools.

Carl,
Old 02-02-2018, 04:00 PM
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Default I was thinking that would be the resolution

Originally Posted by CJackel492
This all sounds very similar to my 2006 4.2

I've just (got my car back on Thursday) had my chains done and it now idles silky smooth and is quiet (apart from the exhaust note).

It's an expensive job, £800 - £900 using genuine parts plus labour and who ever does it really needs to get the timing tools.

Carl,
Hi Carl,

That is what I am thinking the issue is as well. I'm going to do the job myself because I am very comfortable doing so and always up to learn more about my car. I just wanted to be sure I am going in the right direction. I got this car from an auction and from all the paper work I got for it, it seems the car was repossessed the bank was just trying to get any money from it. i got the car for only 800(USD). I don't mind getting genuine parts at the cost of what I am saving from a shop doing it.

What were your symptoms to need a timing job done? Any codes? What engine code do you have? Because i keep running into people telling me that make sure I have the engine code to be sure i get the right parts. I mean, I am sure I have all chains.

I have a 5 day weekend coming up so i will be doing it then and posting a video and or pictures of everything i do.
Old 02-02-2018, 04:11 PM
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You will learn a lot by doing the job.
Attached Thumbnails C6 4.2 Rough Idle Accompanied with Diesel knocking-2d78b46e-444e-4f19-8022-50bc0aeef2ab.jpeg   C6 4.2 Rough Idle Accompanied with Diesel knocking-e96c81a4-7e64-46d8-835f-f418217af2d2.jpeg  
Old 02-02-2018, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinGary
You will learn a lot by doing the job.
anything else other than the chains and tensioner I should be replacing while I have it out?
Are there any other reason this diesel knocking sound and rough idle can be?
Old 02-03-2018, 02:18 AM
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You should replace the guides, tensioners and chains. I also replaced the torque converter, which is another weak spot on these cars as they age.
Old 02-03-2018, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig Cringston
Hi Carl,

That is what I am thinking the issue is as well. I'm going to do the job myself because I am very comfortable doing so and always up to learn more about my car. I just wanted to be sure I am going in the right direction. I got this car from an auction and from all the paper work I got for it, it seems the car was repossessed the bank was just trying to get any money from it. i got the car for only 800(USD). I don't mind getting genuine parts at the cost of what I am saving from a shop doing it.

What were your symptoms to need a timing job done? Any codes? What engine code do you have? Because i keep running into people telling me that make sure I have the engine code to be sure i get the right parts. I mean, I am sure I have all chains.

I have a 5 day weekend coming up so i will be doing it then and posting a video and or pictures of everything i do.
Mine had intermittent misfires and didn't idle very smoothly. At times, it would seriously start to misfire and then throw the MIL light on.

Luckily mine only really rattled when cold.

My engine is the BAT variant.

It is a very involved job and took 2 and half weeks to get done due to next day delivery on parts, missing parts, timing issues due to not having the timing tools..

Now it's nice and smotth, no misfires and no fault codes. :-)

Carl,

Notice the red ringed areas showing the broken/missing bits


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