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Next I removed the valve covers. They are not difficult to remove. Torx T-30 as well. 9 Nm.
First I pulled out the ignition coils.
Then I unscrewed the valve cover bolts following the sequence as shown at the 24:34 time of the the video below, from outer to inner, in sequential order.
Valve cover removed on driver's side.
Valve cover removed on passenger's side. I have removed the fuel line with a 17 mm flat wrench then I disconnected the breather hose before unscrewing and removing the valve cover on this side. Be gentle with the breather hose.
The video. Time to check for removal sequence 24:34.
Now I am ready to turn the engine to TDC and lock it. I used the crankshaft turning adapter connected to my 1/2" wrench and turned the engine clockwise until the threaded holes in the camshafts point upwards. With the engine having a V shape the threaded holes should actually point slightly to the side of each side. The most important is you should be able to place the camshaft locator tools and install their screws by hand easily enough.
Being able to place the crankshaft turning tool and turn the engine with the front carrier not in service position can be a bit of a challenge. This is how I did it:
- I put on a long sleeve shirt and I put on gloves
- I gently insert the turning tool attached to my wrench and try to place it in the middle of the crankshaft
- I hold it still on top with my left hand and I gently slide my right hand through the right side (driver's side) diagonally until I reach the head of the adapter down below
- I adjust the turning tool and make sure it is locked tight in the middle of the crankshaft
- I roll my wrench back while holding the turning tool tight in the crankshaft (wrench counter mechanism - clicking sound)
- I gently take my right hand out and I turn the crankshaft to the right until the wrench gets obstructed
- I hold it still on top with my left hand and... the cycle starts over and over and over...
It takes time but it works. I used to do it faster with my right hand not removed at each turn but my arm forces the serpentine belt to slide off the power steering pump and it get stuck between the power steering pump pulley and a pipe. To avoid damaging the belt, I took my time and followed the steps above instead.
I turned the engine "clockwise only" while having a look at the camshafts to see whether their threaded holes have pointed upwards.
Here is a picture of the crankshaft turning tool attached to my 1/2" wrench. I took this picture later on but I figured it would be useful here.
I installed one camshaft locator tool on the driver's side and torqued each of its bolt to 20 Nm. I couldn't install the other one on the passenger's side.
I assumed the engine must be at TDC because at least 3 threaded holes (2 on the driver's side and 1 on the passenger's side) seem to point to the right angle (up following the V shape). Only the passenger's side intake camshaft (upper one) threaded hole seemed off.
I jacked up the driver's side and tried to install the engine locking pin. It went in which means the engine was indeed at TDC or almost. I turned the crankshaft with the crankshaft turning tool slightly back then slightly forth while trying to screw the engine locking pin further and it did go further to the point I couldn't crank the engine at all.
The engine locking pin has a 10 mm head by the way. I used a 3/8" socket wrench to screw it in tight enough.
I lowered the car to the ground. I started with the driver's side. I had a hard time using the counter holder tool which kept spreading and was not actually holding the cam adjuster. Plus there was not enough room. After trying for a while without success, I decided to only use the multi-point socket. I said to myself the camshaft locator tool is holding them camshafts anyways. Warning! I did this at my own risks.
On the passenger's side I had no other choice than using the counter holder tool because the camshafts are not locked on that side. I got lucky and finally made it.
Remember that these are torqued to more than 80 Nm so you need to use some force.
Showing counter holder tool and multi-point socket inserted into a 3/8" 15 mm socket attached to a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter which finally connects to a 1/2" wrench.
Showing a set of camshaft adjusters with their bolts.
My mirror, my torch, my flexibility, my touch senses and my patience were key here. These are torqued to 9 Nm only so the bolts come off easy.
I used my small 1/4" wrench with a short extension connected to the T-30 bit holder.
Caution! Once the bolts seemed loose, I used the telescoping magnetic pen to make sure the bolts do not fell into the engine. I used one hand to stick the magnetic end to the bolt while unscrewing the last threads with my other hand. Once they were off, the magnetic pen has them stuck and I just pull them out.
The driver's side tensioner piston was shot and had one plastic tab broken.
The passenger's side tensioner piston was in a far worse shape with all plastic tabs broken or missing at all.
Caution! Remember to pull out the tensioners black metallic gaskets which may remain at the back of the engine.
The cam girdles are held by 22 Torx T-30 head bolts on the driver's side and 20 bolts on the passengers side. The bolts are torqued to 8 Nm so removal is easy enough. It's as easy as removing the valve covers.
On my driver's side, two things were in the way. A vacuum line and the oil dipstick.
I disconnected the vacuum line and moved it out of the way. I did replace this vacuum line about a year ago (youtube.com/watch?v=f9tFyFDu0A8) so it is still flexible and I could bend it and move it out of the way.
Caution! If you never replaced this vacuum line, it is very likely it would be hard and can break. Be very gentle.
02-19-2020, 12:06 AM
