zlam27

Hey all,

I've done some searching but people typically report one code or the other, I've got both. Quick backstory, left for a week and when I came back and started my car it sounded different and had significantly less power during acceleration (sound is about the same at idle but sounds boggier/deeper when revved). Check engine light didn't initially come on but it did eventually after a harder acceleration run trying to see if it was just fouled plugs (wishful thinking). Even the ESP came on momentarily but has since gone back off.

Used VAG tool, got codes P-0391 and P-0346 (hopefully pics load below). Looked at the measuring block values, intake and exhaust on bank 2 are -19° which makes me wonder if the tensionerwent bad and the chain may have skipped? I thought this was more likely to happen on the passenger side (bank 1) and my issue is bank 2? I removed the intake and exhaust VVT solenoids tonight and operated with 12V and they're both clicking. Next I'm going to pull the cam position sensors and clean those. I may swap some parts between sides and see if the problem jumps to bank 2. Any other ideas? I just want to be sure I'm going down the right path as I'd like to get parts ordered ASAP so I can get this fixed.

I've found a good write-up for the repair, assuming this is what I'll need ($200 for the tensioner seems spendy...):
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...ement-2861500/

This car ALWAYS has something wrong with it. Every time I fix something and clear the codes...something pops up, without fail, within a week or two.

zlam27

Cleaned both cam sensors tonight, no significant change in readings.
Swapped top cam sensor (intake?) between sides, no change in readings.

Car sounds fairly normal at idle, maybe slightly more valve train noise on bank 1 (side with odd readings). What else should I be checking, any other potential culprits?

kelisko

Your bank 2 is off by almost 40 KW! They say the acceptable limit is 9 KW. Stop using the car immediately!!! You are out of time and you risk damaging the engine. You need to replace your upper timing chain tensioner on bank 2. I would replace the one on bank 1 as well while at it.

zlam27

Thank you so much for the reply, that was the confirmation I needed. I already bought the parts and have not been using the car the past few days, I'll be attempting the project next week. I did buy both sides, I figured since the passenger side is usually the trouble side I might as well preemptively replace it too.

This car already has a replacement engine from the same issue with the original engine at around 120k. Car is at 180k now with unknown-to-me miles on the used engine.