7mm tool in blau kit? I see (and used the 5mm drill bit) for setting the tension
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I'm stuck here....
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/tb.jpg"></center><p>Using 8 mm Allen key, turn toothed belt tensioning lever in direction of arrow until 7 mm drill bit can be inserted between toothed belt tensioning lever and hydraulic tensioning element.
- Tighten bolts on camshaft sprockets.
Anyone else have trouble getting the tensioner to move? The picture shows an allen key, I'm using a 3/8" hex socket and it won't budge. How can I possibly get a 7mm anything in there?
Bob
- Tighten bolts on camshaft sprockets.
Anyone else have trouble getting the tensioner to move? The picture shows an allen key, I'm using a 3/8" hex socket and it won't budge. How can I possibly get a 7mm anything in there?
Bob
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
here's one, yes cams are locked
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/tbaudi_002.jpg"></center><p>I'm definitely not doing something right. I'm supposed to have a 5mm space between the tensioner arm and the tensioner piston. It's hard to see in the pic but there's nowhere near that.
According to the Bentley, I should:
"Measure distance -a- between toothed belt tensioning lever and hydraulic tensioning element.
Dimension a = 5 mm.
- If the dimension is not correct, re-adjust tensioning roller to 5 mm"
I have no movement on the tensioner. I should be pulling up which indicates that the belt is too loose (but doesn't feel like it). I removed the crank pin and went around a couple of times to see if it changed but it didn't.
If I can get past this the hard part is over...
According to the Bentley, I should:
"Measure distance -a- between toothed belt tensioning lever and hydraulic tensioning element.
Dimension a = 5 mm.
- If the dimension is not correct, re-adjust tensioning roller to 5 mm"
I have no movement on the tensioner. I should be pulling up which indicates that the belt is too loose (but doesn't feel like it). I removed the crank pin and went around a couple of times to see if it changed but it didn't.
If I can get past this the hard part is over...
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
maybe that's my problem, they're hand tight but maybe a little too snug
should they be rotating on the camshafts? Maybe that's causing the tensioner to feel locked. I'm going to start over and loosen them more, maybe that will do it.
Was this part easy for you? Seems pretty straighforward, I thought I would be done a few hours ago.
thanks,
Bob
Was this part easy for you? Seems pretty straighforward, I thought I would be done a few hours ago.
thanks,
Bob
#7
AudiWorld Super User
First time tensioning the belt is never easy
Then once you get the feel for it, you'll get it. If the sprockets are not free to rotate on the cams, you'll never get it.
The cams are indexed right now with the locking device, you position the crank at TDC so it is indexed to the cams.....then you have to have the cam sprockets loose so you can tension the belt (they move slightly on their shafts) and then secure it in place.
Then you tighten the sprockets down.
When I do the belt tension on a 32 valve, I set it, then pinch it a few times so the little shock absorber gets exercised. After you do it a few times, you get a feel for it.
You definitely don't want the belt too tight, it will sound like you have a supercharger once the engine warms up and expands.
The cams are indexed right now with the locking device, you position the crank at TDC so it is indexed to the cams.....then you have to have the cam sprockets loose so you can tension the belt (they move slightly on their shafts) and then secure it in place.
Then you tighten the sprockets down.
When I do the belt tension on a 32 valve, I set it, then pinch it a few times so the little shock absorber gets exercised. After you do it a few times, you get a feel for it.
You definitely don't want the belt too tight, it will sound like you have a supercharger once the engine warms up and expands.
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#8
Paul you are a great guy!
How about a cheer for the guy who makes things like audipages possible? How about the hidden friend whenever you take on a project yourself to do? I have not done the TB myself yet-- and I can tell you I will study and read one heck of alot before I do it (and I am a licensed A&P mechanic!)
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year-- and three cheers for the blessings we have in our friends and fellows!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year-- and three cheers for the blessings we have in our friends and fellows!
#9
Yeah, like Paul and the Bentley say, the cam sprockets must still be able to turn. Also...
you did see that the 7 mm bit goes between the hydraulic tensioner housing and the lever, not between the piston and the lever as was the case for the 5 mm bit when the piston was pinned, yes?
I don't remember any problems fitting the 7 mm bit -- it took unremarkable force to turn the lever enough. If your cam sprockets can turn, maybe your belt somehow got overtensioned when adjusting the eccentric wheel (the 5 mm bit & T40009 step)?
Tom
I don't remember any problems fitting the 7 mm bit -- it took unremarkable force to turn the lever enough. If your cam sprockets can turn, maybe your belt somehow got overtensioned when adjusting the eccentric wheel (the 5 mm bit & T40009 step)?
Tom
#10
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I just started at the beginning and same thing. I can't get ANY movement on the tensioner after
pulling the pin. When I did this on my Lexus, you pulled the pin and were done.
The Bentley says pull the pin then make a couple of adjustments which seems weird to me. The piston on the tensioner keeps bottoming out on the tensioning lever. I need to have a 5mm space when it's all said and done.
There is a little less (not much) tension on the right side. I can see why I can't move the tensioner, there isn't enough slack to allow it PLUS I think any movement I do get, the cylinder moves and makes up the difference.
The cams are locked but the bolts are loose enough to allow movement of the cam pulleys. I might take a break and come back in the morning.
If you or anyone else is board, I'm on pages 13-14 thru 13-17 under "Engine Dissasembling and Assembling". "Ribbed belt" is another way to get there in the search.
thanks!
The Bentley says pull the pin then make a couple of adjustments which seems weird to me. The piston on the tensioner keeps bottoming out on the tensioning lever. I need to have a 5mm space when it's all said and done.
There is a little less (not much) tension on the right side. I can see why I can't move the tensioner, there isn't enough slack to allow it PLUS I think any movement I do get, the cylinder moves and makes up the difference.
The cams are locked but the bolts are loose enough to allow movement of the cam pulleys. I might take a break and come back in the morning.
If you or anyone else is board, I'm on pages 13-14 thru 13-17 under "Engine Dissasembling and Assembling". "Ribbed belt" is another way to get there in the search.
thanks!