Car starts, but when put into any of the gears it does not move.
05-16-2006, 08:08 PM
#21
AudiWorld Super User
Did you really change the filter?????????
It's so obvious, but I skimmed all these posts and see you kept mentioning draining the fluid, but I never see where it's clear you dropped the pan and changed the filter. tozoM8 is pointing you there too of course.
If by chance you didn't, start all over. You will find several more quarts when you drop the pan and then unbolt the filter. If you aren't finding 6-7 quarts when you say the thing overflows on you but you drained it, it must be a basic step unless there is a hidden toilet brick sitting in your tranny soaking up the fluid volume. A clogged filter will bring you to a stop and draining fluid without changing the filter just sends a fresh set of detergents into the system to shake more loose for the filter to have to eat up. Also, if you did change the filter (but then 3-4 quarts doesn't compute to me!), are you sure you had the sealing O ring in place at the neck of the filter when you bolted it back into the valve body. If not, it could well be sucking air/cavitating, especially w/low fluid levels.
Also, you have the car level when topping up the fluid, and you are doing it at the permitted temperature range, correct? Easy way to do it is get it into neutral after the gear shifting stuff when almost cold, fill er up, go through the gears again per the procedure, and then open the upper access/fill hole up for the overflow to get it to the final level when VAG COM says you are just cracking 35C.
If by chance you didn't, start all over. You will find several more quarts when you drop the pan and then unbolt the filter. If you aren't finding 6-7 quarts when you say the thing overflows on you but you drained it, it must be a basic step unless there is a hidden toilet brick sitting in your tranny soaking up the fluid volume. A clogged filter will bring you to a stop and draining fluid without changing the filter just sends a fresh set of detergents into the system to shake more loose for the filter to have to eat up. Also, if you did change the filter (but then 3-4 quarts doesn't compute to me!), are you sure you had the sealing O ring in place at the neck of the filter when you bolted it back into the valve body. If not, it could well be sucking air/cavitating, especially w/low fluid levels.
Also, you have the car level when topping up the fluid, and you are doing it at the permitted temperature range, correct? Easy way to do it is get it into neutral after the gear shifting stuff when almost cold, fill er up, go through the gears again per the procedure, and then open the upper access/fill hole up for the overflow to get it to the final level when VAG COM says you are just cracking 35C.
05-16-2006, 08:15 PM
#22
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Re: Did you really change the filter?????????
Sorry the first thing ive tried was draining the fluid and refilling it with to see if that was the problem with the car. My next step is to remove the pan and do a complete oil/filter change.
the car was sitting level. BTW i followed the procedures to a T.
Im going to try a few things that TozoM8 has mentioned.
Thx for the advice.
the car was sitting level. BTW i followed the procedures to a T.
Im going to try a few things that TozoM8 has mentioned.
Thx for the advice.
05-16-2006, 08:19 PM
#24
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Re: The code is a secondary problem.
its a 97 so pre-face car.
ive put it into R after it was all set and done and fluid did pour out, so the pump is OK then.
all is left is the valvebody and the drive shaft.
I didnt even think of the drive shaft, is there a good way to check for damage, if any same goes for the valve body?
ive put it into R after it was all set and done and fluid did pour out, so the pump is OK then.
all is left is the valvebody and the drive shaft.
I didnt even think of the drive shaft, is there a good way to check for damage, if any same goes for the valve body?
05-16-2006, 08:20 PM
#25
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Re: Good, methodical tips and advice here!
yeah im impressed how close averyone is in this AUDI community especially in the A8 forums.
I appreciate all the help ive been getting
I appreciate all the help ive been getting
05-16-2006, 08:26 PM
#27
AudiWorld Super User
Bingo...
Draining fluid without changing filter doesn't fly. Filter is likely major gunked up, and the archives confrm going this route tends to lead to another round of problems when fluid level is low and new fluid with a new detergent package it shaking yet more accumulated gunk loose. Can lead to almost complete filter blockage pretty much.
If you get to the light at the end of the tunnel though, if the fluid did circulate at all, at least you started diluting all the old fluid. Even at the 7-8 quart level, about a third is left behind, mostly in the torque converter. I pushed up to 9 quarts when I replaced my valve body and about another quart came out from that area over the week downtime it was being rebuilt and all the passages emptied out.
Go back to start, new filter and gasket set, with the filter o ring. Figure so far you've lost a few hours and $40 in fluid. At $2-5K for rebuilt PLUS the install cost (in case you missed that), fluid and filters are real cheap.
Opening the pan also allows to to get to the moment of truth. Gunk in pan and furry magnets
for the metallic bits to be expected. Any chunks of anything like clutch bits or whatever, and it's time to give it the last rites. Clearly visible signs of problems on the valve body--you'll be staring right at it when you pull the filter--like a crack or a bad valve or solenoid and if you are lucky you can replace it with the tranny still in the car.
Pan drop and filter change has to be your next step.
Good luck.
If you get to the light at the end of the tunnel though, if the fluid did circulate at all, at least you started diluting all the old fluid. Even at the 7-8 quart level, about a third is left behind, mostly in the torque converter. I pushed up to 9 quarts when I replaced my valve body and about another quart came out from that area over the week downtime it was being rebuilt and all the passages emptied out.
Go back to start, new filter and gasket set, with the filter o ring. Figure so far you've lost a few hours and $40 in fluid. At $2-5K for rebuilt PLUS the install cost (in case you missed that), fluid and filters are real cheap.
Opening the pan also allows to to get to the moment of truth. Gunk in pan and furry magnets
for the metallic bits to be expected. Any chunks of anything like clutch bits or whatever, and it's time to give it the last rites. Clearly visible signs of problems on the valve body--you'll be staring right at it when you pull the filter--like a crack or a bad valve or solenoid and if you are lucky you can replace it with the tranny still in the car.
Pan drop and filter change has to be your next step.
Good luck.
05-16-2006, 08:31 PM
#28
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Re: Tozo is the transmission expert. Is it making any noises? Posting pictures also helps.
there is no noises coming from anywhere. The car looks mint, inside and out. Engine is so quiet i had to put my hand by the exhaust to actual know the car is running, need to replace the aging battery though.
going to find a place that stocks the items i need for a complete filter/oil change.
Canada sux for these sort of things...
does autozone carry any of these parts?
going to find a place that stocks the items i need for a complete filter/oil change.
Canada sux for these sort of things...
does autozone carry any of these parts?
05-16-2006, 08:32 PM
#29
Sh*t happens.
From my old tranny.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80919/dscn1051.jpg">
Broken clutch A housing, lost 1-2-3-4.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80919/dscn1872.jpg">
From a BMW X5.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80919/dscn0042.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80919/dscn1051.jpg">
Broken clutch A housing, lost 1-2-3-4.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80919/dscn1872.jpg">
From a BMW X5.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80919/dscn0042.jpg">
05-16-2006, 08:36 PM
#30
AudiWorld Super User
Go mail order...sources...
blauparts.com or ecstuning.com. Both have the fluid and filters; prices have come way down on the filter sets in the past 3 to 4 years since the aftermarket has opened up. You're also using the special Esso type fluid (audi/Pentosin/etc. branded) I expect. Don't do anything else.
If you need more serious tranny parts and you know what you're doing (or your mechanic does), I found ericcson industries in CT easy to deal with--an authorized ZF rebuilder/distributor, and parts prices were a bit under half the dealer price.
If you need more serious tranny parts and you know what you're doing (or your mechanic does), I found ericcson industries in CT easy to deal with--an authorized ZF rebuilder/distributor, and parts prices were a bit under half the dealer price.