I've had a torn CV Joint boot for over 2 years now. I have a boot replacement but I feel the joint may be pretty worn out now. Should I just replace the whole joint? I found an axle here on ebay, it says non quattro a6, would this fit my 2000 a8?

 

1st >>>> NO!!!!!! ...WRONG part #...WRONG fit. Get ONLY one guaranteed to fit YOUR car specifically.

2nd >>>> WAY TOO CHEAP. If you really don't care about quality and longevity, get an entire axle for under $100...There IS a catch...there is no magic bullet...they're cheap for a reason. NO one sells a replacement axle (other than OEM) that is as good as your OEM...even "RAXLE" (a brand many, other than myself, like to use) is a compromise, but the minimum replacement quality you want to use, IF you choose that route.

I NEVER change axles...it's the compromise (and much more expensive) way out of an already tough job. All the work is getting the axle in and out of the car...changing the boot is child's play in comparison.

If the joint is not clicking or pulsating the steering wheel, change the boot alone...there is NOTHING wrong with that high quality joint, designed and tough enough to go 1/2 million miles.

If the joint is bad, change the joint alone (with OEM quality..."GKN")...it has to come off for the boot change anyway..and really quite easy.

CV joint clean and repack procedure (child's play) >>>>

http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/45872.phtml

 

Hey thanks silverd2, sounds like ill be changing the boot today, i had no idea it was so difficult to replace a whole axle!

 

Well, you still have to do all the work of removing the axle...same as switching axles.

"Some" have done the boot switch with the axle still partially in the car....I have NO clue why you'd want to do that...it would still involve almost all the same work...then leave you no room to work and no way to properly clean and repack the joint.

Easier (and more thorough) to remove the entire axle (book procedure), then lock it in a vise and do the easy part on a work bench...like in my link. I've lost count of the times I've done it this way on all my past VW's, Porsche's and Audi's.

 

That is a great guide that you have put together! Very detailed. After going through a quick read, should I clean off the dirty joint with just brake cleaner and a paper towel? I saw another guide on audi pages that had used mineral spirits to clean off the old grease.

 

I clean joints in a parts washer (mine has mineral spirits in it). You want to get all the old off so you can really check the joint, especially after two years of letting dirt in there.

Hey, silverD2, what's your objection to Raxles? They use new joints on old OEM shafts unless the shafts are damaged. It's more expensive than buying your own, of course, but otherwise same as buying a new joint and DIY, I'd think.

 

Using mineral spirits is only necessary if you are not disassembling the joint.

As you can see, once the joint is off the shaft, taking it apart is ridiculously easy...then a rag (or paper towels) and a couple little squirts of brake cleaner do the job...that's what I use.

 

My problem with Raxles is that they are NOT OEM and I (and others) ALREADY own OEM axles.
99% of the time, people buying Raxles already have perfectly good, undamaged OEM halfshafts (the most expensive, strongest, finest materials and most precision made available) and somehow think they are saving a lot of work by not simply replacing the boot...the only part that goes bad. Are they afraid of dirty fingernails or what?

Raxles are NOT the same as replacing the joint yourself with an OEM joint. Yes, they use "new" joints...but who's new joint...NOT OEM. $70 Advance auto parts shafts claim to have "new" joints and also have a lifetime warranty...seriously.
A lifetime warranty is strictly a business decision based on longterm risk and willingness to replace the ones that go bad and still make money...it is NOT a certification or even a measure of quality.

Raxles, although the most expensive aftermarket axles, are still half the price (or less than) of complete OEM axles. There IS a reason...business works that way. Their joints are likely made for them on contract, since they do not disclose the maker or even claim they are OEM.
I have not a reason in the world to believe that their joints are machined and fitted as well or made from the same grade of materials as OEM, simply because of the cost...NOTHING is free...they do NOT do this just because they're nice guys or have a secret source for exactly the same joints that came on the car.

Granted, if I had a completely destroyed axle (joints and shaft), I very likely might buy a Raxles replacement due to the cost. My problem, again, is replacing an undamaged OEM shaft with an aftermarket that is "just as good" simply because they say it is. .....And for what? ...to save the simplest step of the procedure, replacing a boot? I don't think so...I'm not allergic to grease...and don't paint my fingernails