I have a S8 D2, now what?
#1
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I have a S8 D2, now what?
Hi guys,
so after almost 2 months I finally bought an S8 D2. The car has almost 103k miles, had the timing belt replaced some 20k miles ago. The car is in really good shape.
I read that some people flush fluids and things like that when they buy these cars used. Do you recommend I do something in particular? Anything I should check?
Thanks,
Leo
so after almost 2 months I finally bought an S8 D2. The car has almost 103k miles, had the timing belt replaced some 20k miles ago. The car is in really good shape.
I read that some people flush fluids and things like that when they buy these cars used. Do you recommend I do something in particular? Anything I should check?
Thanks,
Leo
#2
Hi guys,
so after almost 2 months I finally bought an S8 D2. The car has almost 103k miles, had the timing belt replaced some 20k miles ago. The car is in really good shape.
I read that some people flush fluids and things like that when they buy these cars used. Do you recommend I do something in particular? Anything I should check?
Thanks,
Leo
so after almost 2 months I finally bought an S8 D2. The car has almost 103k miles, had the timing belt replaced some 20k miles ago. The car is in really good shape.
I read that some people flush fluids and things like that when they buy these cars used. Do you recommend I do something in particular? Anything I should check?
Thanks,
Leo
Do you know when any of the fluids were last changed? Any service records with the car?
I'd start with fluids for sure just so I knew they were fresh:
-Oil
-Brake (if it's dark and discolored it's obviously time to change)
-Power steering (open the PS green res and look for tiny metallic specs indicating normal pump wear...flush and replace if so)
-Transmission (you will come to learn of the debate back and forth here of whether to change or not)
Any record of oil cooler transfer pipe replacement? It can be a DIY job if you're handy, otherwise plan on $1000 repair at some point.
Maybe check brake pad levels. Many hardwire brake pad wear sensors so that false dash warnings disappear.
I'd pop in a K&N panel filter if not already done.
Invest $10 in a Vag-Com cable off Amazon or Ebay and download VCDS Lite from Ross-Tech. You can then scan and clear codes and change some drivabilty settings if you wish.
All of these procedures can be found online. A site I used for most of the normal wear stuff:
http://www.audidiy.com/a8.html
It doesn't have to all be done at once. Go enjoy the beast!
#4
Probably wouldn't hurt to look at spark plugs either. While you have one or two out inspect for any oil leaking into the spark plug tubes. If there is oil (mine had some at ~65k miles and possibly earlier) it means your valve cover gaskets are going bad (very common on the 4.2). Also look around the perimeter of the valve covers for any oil leaks. A replacement is a very straightforward job and there are very good (and improved) replacement kits available for cheap. Blauparts usually has good prices.
I used this procedure (was an A8 but very small differences):
http://www.dognmonkey.com/audi/a8-d2...placement.html
Also replace the fuel filter! I run a bottle of Techron thru every 3-5k miles or so. You will read about fuel pump nightmares on here, so I'm trying to keep my system as clean as possible.
Some people will advise on buying a Bentley manual. I did, but honestly haven't needed it very much. There is so much good information on this forum.
I'm assuming you're doing some (all?) of the work yourself. If not, find a good independent shop that you trust. I avoid my local dealer like the plague (I spent 2 hours there just exchanging a battery that I brought in!). You can save bundles though by doing even some of the easier jobs on your own.
p.s. Don't forget to start by taking off the engine covers...1/4 turn counter clockwise for each plastic screw
p.p.s. S8-specific (vs. A8) information can be hard to come by. Most the DIY's you will find are for an A8, but very similar to S8. This forum and good common sense has worked for me so far (4.5 years and counting). I did a brake job a little while back and still haven't found an S8-specific DIY for that (perhaps I should have made one ).
I used this procedure (was an A8 but very small differences):
http://www.dognmonkey.com/audi/a8-d2...placement.html
Also replace the fuel filter! I run a bottle of Techron thru every 3-5k miles or so. You will read about fuel pump nightmares on here, so I'm trying to keep my system as clean as possible.
Some people will advise on buying a Bentley manual. I did, but honestly haven't needed it very much. There is so much good information on this forum.
I'm assuming you're doing some (all?) of the work yourself. If not, find a good independent shop that you trust. I avoid my local dealer like the plague (I spent 2 hours there just exchanging a battery that I brought in!). You can save bundles though by doing even some of the easier jobs on your own.
p.s. Don't forget to start by taking off the engine covers...1/4 turn counter clockwise for each plastic screw
p.p.s. S8-specific (vs. A8) information can be hard to come by. Most the DIY's you will find are for an A8, but very similar to S8. This forum and good common sense has worked for me so far (4.5 years and counting). I did a brake job a little while back and still haven't found an S8-specific DIY for that (perhaps I should have made one ).
Last edited by S8ilver; 08-13-2013 at 12:34 PM.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
First of all, congrats and welcome to the club.
Do you know when any of the fluids were last changed? Any service records with the car?
I'd start with fluids for sure just so I knew they were fresh:
-Oil
-Brake (if it's dark and discolored it's obviously time to change)
-Power steering (open the PS green res and look for tiny metallic specs indicating normal pump wear...flush and replace if so)
-Transmission (you will come to learn of the debate back and forth here of whether to change or not)
Any record of oil cooler transfer pipe replacement? It can be a DIY job if you're handy, otherwise plan on $1000 repair at some point.
Maybe check brake pad levels. Many hardwire brake pad wear sensors so that false dash warnings disappear.
I'd pop in a K&N panel filter if not already done.
Invest $10 in a Vag-Com cable off Amazon or Ebay and download VCDS Lite from Ross-Tech. You can then scan and clear codes and change some drivabilty settings if you wish.
All of these procedures can be found online. A site I used for most of the normal wear stuff:
http://www.audidiy.com/a8.html
It doesn't have to all be done at once. Go enjoy the beast!
Do you know when any of the fluids were last changed? Any service records with the car?
I'd start with fluids for sure just so I knew they were fresh:
-Oil
-Brake (if it's dark and discolored it's obviously time to change)
-Power steering (open the PS green res and look for tiny metallic specs indicating normal pump wear...flush and replace if so)
-Transmission (you will come to learn of the debate back and forth here of whether to change or not)
Any record of oil cooler transfer pipe replacement? It can be a DIY job if you're handy, otherwise plan on $1000 repair at some point.
Maybe check brake pad levels. Many hardwire brake pad wear sensors so that false dash warnings disappear.
I'd pop in a K&N panel filter if not already done.
Invest $10 in a Vag-Com cable off Amazon or Ebay and download VCDS Lite from Ross-Tech. You can then scan and clear codes and change some drivabilty settings if you wish.
All of these procedures can be found online. A site I used for most of the normal wear stuff:
http://www.audidiy.com/a8.html
It doesn't have to all be done at once. Go enjoy the beast!
#6
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+1
First two weeks of ownership for me had a wet passenger floor and water spitting out of the interior vents due to the aircon drains being plugged up,
and
A wet head after a decent rain shower when the headlining filled with water because the sunroof rear drains were clogged! That one also resulted in all the boot (trunk) under floor recesses filling with water - nearly drowning the Bose Amp and the Rear Park Sensor ECM!
First two weeks of ownership for me had a wet passenger floor and water spitting out of the interior vents due to the aircon drains being plugged up,
and
A wet head after a decent rain shower when the headlining filled with water because the sunroof rear drains were clogged! That one also resulted in all the boot (trunk) under floor recesses filling with water - nearly drowning the Bose Amp and the Rear Park Sensor ECM!
#7
AudiWorld Super User
But I will state (again) that I have NEVER seen any evidence of the intermittent forum post theory/myth that oil from a K&N filter has ever coated (cause to fail?) anyone's MAF...no photos, no independent study with results showing that...just unsubstantiated posts on forums, grasping at straws about a part that, by nature of it's design, may be prone to eventual failure anyway...a hot toaster wire hanging in high speed wind for years.
I have used K&N filters on countless VW's, 3 P-928's (w/hot-wire MAF's) and my current Audi's. I have never had an MAF fail on any of these cars* or found anything but surgically clean internal parts in any of them (tube, wire, etc...no oil, dust... nothing). Some of these cars went well over 100K miles with the same K&N filter with NO problems.
*At about 40K miles, while under CPO warranty, the dealer replaced an MAF on my current D2, saying it was bad. The car was in to have a locked up armrest replaced. Funny, no CEL or any symptom...they were obviously bilking Audi for warranty parts/labor. The car had a new OEM paper filter in it at the time and had not ever had a K&N installed...BUT, it's had one in it for the last 80K miles.
The only independent studies I've ever read about K&N's , which worry some people (myself NOT included), is about the amount and/or size of dust particles allowed in compared to a much more restrictive paper filter (so what?!). But none of these studies showed/proved ANY abnormal engine wear or MAF coating/damage from the added dust allowed through or the filter oil. The dust particles allowed through are still microscopic. In my opinion/experience, this negligible dust is swirled in the air charge and is burned or passes on through, too small to even stop at the channels in the cats...proven to me by past close inspections of internal MAF parts, engine parts & cats after long-term use of K&N air filters.
Anything smaller than a dragonfly getting sucked in doesn't worry me much
Cheers & Peace
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#8
AudiWorld Junior Member
just bought 2002 A8L, these are good tips
A8Ler and others, I thought i would chime in as well
I just bought at 2002 A8L with 94K
It has been well cared for, and timing belt, camshaft & crankshaft seals, T-belt tensioner damper, thermostat, pump changed at 90k
First of all thanks for these helpful tips on the S8, i am guessing, many apply to the A8 as well
My first step is finding a good indy shop in N VA,(I had a great mech in NYC for 15 yrs - autobahn service center)
I have had a few VW/audis over the years (VWbus/rabbit/quantum/jetta/passat/A6), and can do a lot of things myself, but need a good audi mechanic
any suggestions would be welcomed
thanks
I just bought at 2002 A8L with 94K
It has been well cared for, and timing belt, camshaft & crankshaft seals, T-belt tensioner damper, thermostat, pump changed at 90k
First of all thanks for these helpful tips on the S8, i am guessing, many apply to the A8 as well
My first step is finding a good indy shop in N VA,(I had a great mech in NYC for 15 yrs - autobahn service center)
I have had a few VW/audis over the years (VWbus/rabbit/quantum/jetta/passat/A6), and can do a lot of things myself, but need a good audi mechanic
any suggestions would be welcomed
thanks
#9
AudiWorld Super User
I'm not outright recommending or not recommending K&N air filters...that's up to the individual looking at things realistically.
But I will state (again) that I have NEVER seen any evidence of the intermittent forum post theory/myth that oil from a K&N filter has ever coated (cause to fail?) anyone's MAF...no photos, no independent study with results showing that...just unsubstantiated posts on forums, grasping at straws about a part that, by nature of it's design, may be prone to eventual failure anyway...a hot toaster wire hanging in high speed wind for years.
I have used K&N filters on countless VW's, 3 P-928's (w/hot-wire MAF's) and my current Audi's. I have never had an MAF fail on any of these cars* or found anything but surgically clean internal parts in any of them (tube, wire, etc...no oil, dust... nothing). Some of these cars went well over 100K miles with the same K&N filter with NO problems.
*At about 40K miles, while under CPO warranty, the dealer replaced an MAF on my current D2, saying it was bad. The car was in to have a locked up armrest replaced. Funny, no CEL or any symptom...they were obviously bilking Audi for warranty parts/labor. The car had a new OEM paper filter in it at the time and had not ever had a K&N installed...BUT, it's had one in it for the last 80K miles.
The only independent studies I've ever read about K&N's , which worry some people (myself NOT included), is about the amount and/or size of dust particles allowed in compared to a much more restrictive paper filter (so what?!). But none of these studies showed/proved ANY abnormal engine wear or MAF coating/damage from the added dust allowed through or the filter oil. The dust particles allowed through are still microscopic. In my opinion/experience, this negligible dust is swirled in the air charge and is burned or passes on through, too small to even stop at the channels in the cats...proven to me by past close inspections of internal MAF parts, engine parts & cats after long-term use of K&N air filters.
Anything smaller than a dragonfly getting sucked in doesn't worry me much
Cheers & Peace
But I will state (again) that I have NEVER seen any evidence of the intermittent forum post theory/myth that oil from a K&N filter has ever coated (cause to fail?) anyone's MAF...no photos, no independent study with results showing that...just unsubstantiated posts on forums, grasping at straws about a part that, by nature of it's design, may be prone to eventual failure anyway...a hot toaster wire hanging in high speed wind for years.
I have used K&N filters on countless VW's, 3 P-928's (w/hot-wire MAF's) and my current Audi's. I have never had an MAF fail on any of these cars* or found anything but surgically clean internal parts in any of them (tube, wire, etc...no oil, dust... nothing). Some of these cars went well over 100K miles with the same K&N filter with NO problems.
*At about 40K miles, while under CPO warranty, the dealer replaced an MAF on my current D2, saying it was bad. The car was in to have a locked up armrest replaced. Funny, no CEL or any symptom...they were obviously bilking Audi for warranty parts/labor. The car had a new OEM paper filter in it at the time and had not ever had a K&N installed...BUT, it's had one in it for the last 80K miles.
The only independent studies I've ever read about K&N's , which worry some people (myself NOT included), is about the amount and/or size of dust particles allowed in compared to a much more restrictive paper filter (so what?!). But none of these studies showed/proved ANY abnormal engine wear or MAF coating/damage from the added dust allowed through or the filter oil. The dust particles allowed through are still microscopic. In my opinion/experience, this negligible dust is swirled in the air charge and is burned or passes on through, too small to even stop at the channels in the cats...proven to me by past close inspections of internal MAF parts, engine parts & cats after long-term use of K&N air filters.
Anything smaller than a dragonfly getting sucked in doesn't worry me much
Cheers & Peace
Last edited by Prospeeder; 08-14-2013 at 12:24 PM.
#10
AudiWorld Super User
May not be proven, but its a given, if the filters covered in oil, some of its bound to get sucked into the intake. A MAF sensor need to be clean and dry to give a proper reading. Any contamination will alter its signal. I get plenty of cars in that have bad mafs and have a K&N filters, i take them out, put them in the customers trunk, and install a paper one. Tell them if it comes back with a K&N i will void the mafs warrenty. And really. the added dirt, possible maf contamination, is so not worth the pathetic amount of extra flow. yay 1 hp but my turbo impeller got sand blasted to death, oh no....
Myself, after the first cleaning of all my K&N filters (and I clean em more often than I change engine oil), I never re-oiled them...and I repeat: Never ANY problem at ANY mileage on ANY of my many cars. << That is my proof.
Finding a K&N in a car with a failed MAF is proof of nothing, unless you care to have an independent observer show me a macro photo of this contaminated hot wire, caused by oil off a K&N filter. I just don't buy this.
Again, due to the nature of their design, MAF's fail all the time...esp cheaper versions. The vast majority of these failures are on cars with OEM paper filters.
Remember, this a D2 forum (no doomed-to-fail turbos here)...didn't notice a D2 in your sig(?).
I do not use K&N filters for the little added hp. I use them for a few other reasons:
- The same reason I don't walk around breathing through a surgical mask...less work on intake...freer breathing. If this also adds hp...win, win.
- Serviceable, cleanable, functional and (IMHO) NON-damaging, lifetime component...More than pays for itself in time.
To each their own opinion (and JUST an opinion)...I believe what I personally see or find overwhelming statistics to "prove". The vast majority (if not ALL of em, as I firmly believe) of K&N installations have lead to no inherent problems later.
Last edited by silverd2; 08-14-2013 at 02:46 PM.