mart_o_rama

the TB change, perhaps by manually moving the crankshaft, for some reason? Never had that error before.

One more thing to note is that I didn't remove the sprockets when changing the timing belt, i just slided the belt on both the sprockets, in the order specified by the Bentley manual. So at this point, the driver side camshaft sprocket has never been loosen, maybe that's what it needs now... i'll try this tomorrow.

Thanks again for your help TozoM8, it helps this newbie a lot, i enjoy learning how my S8 works.

Regards,

A8bil

Mart-o,

Be careful about examining belt slack when it is not at top dead center. When I recently did my belt, I turned off the engine before reassembly and checked out the belt. From the crank to the passenger side cam, the belt was as taut as could be. From the driver's cam to the crank the the belt was so slack it looked like it was going to fall off. I was sure I screwed up and started to get that pit in my stomach, but I talked to A8CT about it and he warned me to not draw any conclusions until I turned the engine back to TDC and measured whether it was within the specs in the Bentley manual. Sure enough, once back at TDC, the belt was properly tensioned and correct.

So, what I draw from this is that there are moments in the engine rev cycle where the belt is very slack, which is why the manual spec that requires 1 mm clearance for the cam covers on either side must be followed closely. I think they may prevent that slack from allowing the belt to skip a tooth. JMHO.

Anyways, if you put in the crank lock at TDC, lock the cams with the tool, release the cam sprockets from the friction on the tapered mounts, and re-tighten, it should be correct, since the cams are keyed. if you continue to throw codes, you might look elsewhere.

Good luck.

Bill

mart_o_rama

loosen from the camshafts when i changed the belt (I did not actually removed them). So i may not have set the proper tension on the belt in the end. I will look at this tomorrow. However, since my turning the passenger side camshaft a little made the code go from cyl 1 through 4 misfire to only cyl 1 and 3 misfire, then perhaps i need to slightly adjust once more. Will try.

Thanks for your input, appreciated.

pkrasusky

...biting me tongue on 'that' for moons now - whattatool, comes to mind.

Great we're on same page 'there'.

Even own a D2? Nope. Why here then one wunderz...

Whatever:

<img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/pkrasusky/SEADYd04mcI/AAAAAAAAAgI/gqZF8WPt7BE/image007.jpg?imgmax=512">

Funny find with that post, Justin!

That said, good luck, mart... we feel for you.

Not all of us can be so adept to change our own belts perfectly 1st time and have wicked cool cartoon signaturez and dumbass screen names and like something and stuff or things, ya know.

Forum Trollz: nobody likes them...

JBowers

I simply took the screen shot to make it easier to see. I did it because I thought that the comments from Sr CaptainMurphy BT were so opposite of the helpful nature of the members on the forum that he really should be called out for it.

And yes, "whattatool" is one of the words that comes to mind.

mart_o_rama

Went for a ride today, got the following codes:

16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -
17549 - Load Calculation Cross Check: Implausible Value
P1141 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 35-00 - -

I thought i was near enough so that only cyl. 1 and 3 were faulty, now they all came back as misfires.

Anyway, as i'm driving the car, i can't feel that anything is wrong, only the idle is rough. But the check engine light come on flashing every now and then.

The only thing i haven't done now is to retry tensioning the belt while making sure my sprockets are loose, which i didn't the first time around.

Would a bad tension in the belt generate on-and-off misfires?

I'll redo the procedure, and if i get to the same point, i'll bend over at the stealer. Hopefully he can do a better job, apparently they don't always do as I red in the archives...

N.B. I *hate* preventive maintenance, the car was running perfectly before all this. ;-)

Cheers,

tozoM8

It could be fuel related. I would put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in it.

A8CT

yes, definitely remove both cams. They need to rotate on the camshaft while tensioning the belt. There's really no way to be "off a tooth" if done this way.

This has worked for me the three times I've done it. I know that it's possible to do it other ways but you have all the right tools on hand.

If nothing else, you'll be absolutely certain that it's something else. I know your frustrated but you'll tear right through the disassembly in no time now that you've done it already.

Bob

A8bil

Hi Martin,

Definitely if you did not loosen the sprockets on the cam, that's your starting point. Go back again in the process far enough to do that right.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Bill

mart_o_rama

i'll let you know how it turned out.

Quick question: the Blau kit comes with two camshaft seals. Since I did not bother removing the cam sprockets the first time around, i did not replace the seals. Now that i'll go back in there and remove the cam sprockets, should I take the time to replace the camshaft seals? What indicator could tell me if they need to be replaced? Or yes always as a preventive measure?

Thanks again!